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Need advise for a lot of products! (newbie)

12K views 37 replies 8 participants last post by  mb1 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello guys!

I have a 99 BMW 320i that did a 2-step paint correction from a professional detailer a year ago.

The car sits outside all the time, since I have no garage, and it's my daily car.
It has now lost it's protection and has some light scratches,as well as some others marks that my pressure washer hose did (shame on me, but well, still a newbie learning from my mistakes)

I want to correct the paint by myself following the rules of detailing, but don't know what set of products to buy.

I'm thinking in buying a DAS6-PRO, that's the only certainty. The decon clay/lub, compound, polish... Every product that's needed to go from 1st to last step before paint protection, don't know what to buy, even the cloths (the products are so many out there!).

Been reading about Scholl products, because of hard clearcoat that my car has, but don't know what to choose for the marks the car has.

In the end of correction process, I want to apply some ceramic coating (I leaned towards Gtecniq CSL or Gyeon, don't know yet)

Also, I have 2 scratch marks on the doors B pillar, along with some Meguiars water spot remover product stain (thought I cleaned it but now won't leave)

Regarding the chrome trim, what do you recomend? I was thinking of autosol metal polish.

Roof and trunk we're painted a month ago.

NOTE: Will probably buy all products at CYC, because I want shipping cost down to one order.

Here are some pictures:



















 
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#2 · (Edited)
You could maybe start with scholl s20 with a white spider pad , this will get rid of most of the swirls and deeper scratches and sort your b pillars out . S20 can finish down to the lsp stage with a softer pad of your choice .
If your buying from cyc I would seal with finishkare hi temp sealant or collinte 845 .
If you are going to top with a wax I would suggest r222 or cg petes wax .
Autosol with a lot of elbow grease will be fine for you exhaust and chrome .To keep cost down you'll get away with a bottle of s20, 2 pads , and the finishkare hi temp sealant (this can also be used on alloys) 2 coats of this will give you great protection .
I would also recommend finishkare 425 detail spray .
Gyeon/g techniq are great products , I don't really like ceramic coatings too much hard work if it goes wrong .


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#3 ·
You could maybe start with scholl s20 with a white spider pad , this will get rid of most of the swirls and deeper scratches and sort your b pillars out . S20 can finish down to the lsp stage with a softer pad of your choice .
If your buying from cyc I would seal with finishkare hi temp sealant or collinte 845 .
If you are going to top with a wax I would suggest r222 or cg petes wax .
Autosol with a lot of elbow grease will be fine for you exhaust and chrome .To keep cost down you'll get away with a bottle of s20, 2 pads , and the finishkare hi temp sealant (this can also be used on alloys) 2 coats of this will give you great protection .
I would also recommend finishkare 425 detail spray .
Gyeon/g techniq are great products , I don't really like ceramic coatings too much hard work if it goes wrong .

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Thanks for tips.

fk1000p is already on my list, but for the wheels as you say.

I want a ceramic coating because it gives more protection and lastes longer.
Almost everyday I have issues with bird drops (damn seaguls) and also have a few spots where it attacked the clearcoat.

The main goal is to protect paint over look, because it sits outside and it's my daily car.

What about decon products? Need a claybar (don't know how abrasive) and lube. I already have kenotek wheel cleaner ultra (for iron decon).

After using S20, what surface prep should I use?

What cloth is recomendable for each step? I have a lot of microfiber towels with short pile and a gyeon WW only.
 
#4 ·
Some suggestions (all available from CYC):

Bilt Hamber clay - a large 200g bar for not much more than some brands are charging for 100g, and it's good stuff. Probably go for the medium grade for your car. Only need water for lubrication.

Auto Finesse ObliTARate for tar removal

I would be careful with Autosol on the trims, they're not real chrome (on any car, these days) and too much polishing or use of something too aggressive can spoil them. I'd try Menzerna polishing cream for this.

I'm assuming you've got buckets, wash mitt etc?

Important MF towels - some plush ones for buffing (Eurow?), plus some shorter pile ones for removing polish residue, cleaning interiors

Always worth having an APC to hand, personally I like Bilt Hamber Surfex HD for this.
 
#5 ·
Some suggestions (all available from CYC):

Bilt Hamber clay - a large 200g bar for not much more than some brands are charging for 100g, and it's good stuff. Probably go for the medium grade for your car. Only need water for lubrication.

Auto Finesse ObliTARate for tar removal

I would be careful with Autosol on the trims, they're not real chrome (on any car, these days) and too much polishing or use of something too aggressive can spoil them. I'd try Menzerna polishing cream for this.

I'm assuming you've got buckets, wash mitt etc?

Important MF towels - some plush ones for buffing (Eurow?), plus some shorter pile ones for removing polish residue, cleaning interiors

Always worth having an APC to hand, personally I like Bilt Hamber Surfex HD for this.
Yes, I've got 2 buckets and microfiber madness incredimitt.

I use nextzett glanz shampoo to wash the car (I'll buy carChem 1900:1).

Only destiled water with the clay? I thought I'd need more lubrication (like DJ born slippy?)

About tar, I don't identify it in the paint but it's still better to use it?

The APC I have is nextzett Blitz, but what use does it have on paint correction?

Thank you very much!
 
#6 ·
Bilt Hamber clay only requires normal water, one of the many good things about it. As said, go for the medium grade.

You may not notice the tar, but if it sits outside constantly, then it will definitely have some, more so if used daily.

APC will allow you to attack the more stubborn areas, agitated with a detailing brush. I would also recommend getting a couple of the smaller detailing brushes for cleaning the badges/grill area.

For surface prep, after polishing wipe down with either a panel wipe, such as the one GTechniq do, for buy a bottle of IPA and mix with water in a spray bottle. This will remove any polish residue left over.

Also, get some of the masking tape for protecting areas you don't want to polish, such as rubbers, headlights etc. Makes life so much easier.
 
#7 ·
Bilt Hamber clay only requires normal water, one of the many good things about it. As said, go for the medium grade.

You may not notice the tar, but if it sits outside constantly, then it will definitely have some, more so if used daily.

APC will allow you to attack the more stubborn areas, agitated with a detailing brush. I would also recommend getting a couple of the smaller detailing brushes for cleaning the badges/grill area.

For surface prep, after polishing wipe down with either a panel wipe, such as the one GTechniq do, for buy a bottle of IPA and mix with water in a spray bottle. This will remove any polish residue left over.

Also, get some of the masking tape for protecting areas you don't want to polish, such as rubbers, headlights etc. Makes life so much easier.
What dillution ration should I use for APC and IPA?

I got a small round "paint" brush that is very soft, is it enough for those stubborn areas?

Thaks for the tips guys, I feel less lost in the process.
 
#8 ·
So, I had a few time issues but now I'm decided to go along with it and make a good winter prep.

Narrowed the list to the following products:

Start with washing and Decon:
-Snow foam: AF Avalanche or Bilt Hamber - Auto Foam?
-Shampoo: CARCHEM 1900:1 500ml or other?
-Clay: Bilt Hamber - Auto Clay Medium (200g)
-Decon: Kenotek Wheel Cleaner Ultra (Iron remover) - already have and AF ObliTARate

Polishing Stage:

-Surface prep: Bilt Hamber - Cleanser Fluid or Dodo Juice - Lime Prime?
-Polishing: Scholl S20 or other?
-Polishing Pad: Scholl Concepts - Spider Pad 140mm (white) only? (how many pads?)
-After Polishing: IPA

Protection Stage:

-Sealant: FK1000P
-Wax: top up with something? or no need to?

Thanks everybody!
 
#11 ·
Prewash BH Autofoam.

Shampoo Carchem 1900:1

Rinse and dry.

Decon paint with a good fallout remover first. I'm not sure what CYC has in this department. Gyeon Iron is good if available. I prefer others but I know CYC doesn't stock said items.

Rinse and dry.

Clay BH medium clay.

Wheels If that's what you've got give it a whirl. Address this after prewash stage.

Polishing stage.............. STOP.

Firstly it's already had a recent 2 stage correction. How much paint have realistically got left to play with? Answer you don't know without a PTG. With all the goodwill and suggestions about polish and pad combinations I'd really not be even addressing this yet until clearly you've learned what it takes to correct paint successfully.

As my good friend would suggest if you grab yourself a DA. Get some CarPro Essence and a gloss pad and appreciate that finish until you gain some more experience.

Ceramic coating. As above if Essence does its job and hides the defects there is no reason not to apply a coating at this stage. Essence forms a molecular bond that will pretty much accept any silica based or hydrocarbon based product. If not Fk1000p can be your temporary winter friend.

Rushing a correction and winter protection at this time of year for an inexperienced person could end in massive disappointment bud! :thumb:
 
#10 ·
Sounds good.
Fk1000p 2 layers will be fine for winter.
With the s20 I would buy 2 white pads and 2 orange pads.
Reason being is you will most likely have some very fine scratches from the white pad, you will need the the orange ones to take these out . S20 is very much a pad depend product . You can use it for compounding and finishing just by changing your pad .
You should see some good results if you take your time.
I'd recommend you looks at the blit hamber product range for everything other than your polish and pads . There good honest products, priced well and do what they say .
Good luck . Post your results up when your done.
Also if you have not watched them, check out the junkman detailing videos on YouTube


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#13 ·
Thanks a lot for the input!

Well, I decided to put aside ceramic coating for now, since I have zero experience on applying any tipe of protection, so will start from the sealant/wax.

You're right, I don't know how much clearcoat I have left (beside from roof and trunk that were painted 2 months ago), perhaps it's better to find it out and decide from here.
 
#17 ·
Today I checked the clearcoat and it's fine, still have "a lot" to play with.

So, back to the choice.

Still lost about what compound/polish to choose. I see people talking about menzerna or meguiar's products, and I found 2 different kits on CYC. Are these better than scholl?

I decided to do a cut stage on the bonnet (that needs more atention) and leave the rest of the panels with 1 step.

Need more options please.
 
#33 ·
Been 20min watching Forensic Detailing Channel reviewing it. I liked it, but need something cheaper.

I have Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Paste Wax, perhaps going to use it and top it with some Sonax BSD. I'm spending more than I wanted, so I'm going to stick with the essential and maybe buy more products later.

Is there a pad that I can use to apply the wax with the das6? It would save me a lot of time.

About cloths what to use for:

Remove polish?

Remove bird drops?

Remove wax?

Glass cleaning?

The descriptions are so similar that I don't understand what's best for what.

I know that more gsm will have more absortion, but regarding to pile (short or longer), what's more adequate for each task?
 
#34 ·
If you want cheap, durable and available from In2Detailing, you could look at Sonax PNS or their Xtreme NPT (which is apparently a consumer version of PNS - it cures a little bit more slowly).

You will use more wax applying by machine, and I'm not actually sure you'll save any time. That aside any finishing spot pad should do the trick eg this one.

For glass cleaning you want specific glass cloths really; however as Imran doesn't currently seem to carry any (based on that link) I would suggest these as an alternative. I would always try to remove bird droppings using touchless methods - ideally presoak it with something then blast it off with the pressure washer. If that fails, I tend to put a piece of kitchen tower over it and spray APC on that, leave it to soak for a while, then wash the affected panel. It's very rare that doesn't get it off.

Wax removal - depends on the wax, but the 470GSM cloths are a good all rounder for this. For removing polish I like something with a bit more bite (ie a shorter pile), these or these would be my pick from Imran's range.
 
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