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Glare users - ever put a ceramic coating over it?

8K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  broncoupe 
#1 ·
In short - brother has just bought a fairly high mileage Lexus RX 450H (61 plate). Being Lexus will be pretty soft paint and the amount of marring, swirls etc on the paint seems to suggest this is very much true. Up to now it's just had a wash and a coat of 1000P to get something on the paint.

He's not looking for perfection but thinking could make a huge difference to it with Glare and then coat it to give the paint some marring resistance and a really long lasting LSP (he's no detailer although I've got him trained in safe washing procedures :thumb:)

Just wondered if anyone has ever put a coating over Glare - given its filling is meant to be permanently bonded to the clearcoat it seems that a coating should go on OK but wondered if anyone had any practical experience of this.
 
#2 ·
i am no expert but surely the ceramics coating won't bond properly to the car paint and will end up being a waste of time.

If you are going to go to the trouble of machineing it with Glare why not just give it once over with a one step polish and then put the ceramic coating on top after its been wiped down?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Well - Glare isn't a "normal" filler glaze - from what I can make out it's similar (at least in priciple) to say, Carpro Essence, in that the bond to the paint is sufficiently strong that it fills defects "permanently". Certainly it lasts well, haven't been using the system long enough to see if it's truly permanent.

Secondly, I am no machine polishing guru, my impression of the paint is that some of the marks are fairly deep. Whilst they would likely "cut out" fairly readily due to the soft paint, it would possibly take a lot of clear off the panel, and I am no finishing ninja with a machine - although Sonax PF or even Scholl S20 on a (black waffle / honey spider?) suitable pad might well help me out here.

Glare is relatively idiot proof, I blasted about 5 coats onto a messed up wing on my car (some idiot cycled into it) and the results were very good, so I am thinking rather than learn to cope with soft paint on my brother's new pride and joy, I might be better off taking a different approach!

Think I need to get another look at the panels (some worse than others), do the "fingernail test", maybe some test patches with the DA, get some pics up on here before I take a decision.
 
#3 ·
If finishing with Glare Pro, then there will be a good layer of protection on there anyway. As above, I can't see a ceramic sealant bonding too well as these normally require an IPA wipedown to ensure a good bond with clean bare paint.

In my opinion a better option would be to top off with something like Collinite for a long lasting LSP.
 
#5 ·
My backup plan if we go with the Glare is something like Sonax NPT which has the self cleaning, water behaviour and durability to be a good second choice. Plus it can be applied in minutes and no worries about keeping the vehicle dry afterwards (which is a possible concern as he lives in York and I'm in South Manchester, so he has to travel if we're to work on the car)
 
#6 · (Edited)
I tackled what turned out to be terrible swirls and a fairly deep scuff/scratch with some Sonax PF on my soft lexus paint with a white pad. Came up a treat - top notch finish. I'd agree that trying that would give great results considering how soft the paint is, especially being you said that your brother isn't looking for a *perfect* finish. Then wipe down a apply a coating to help with marr prevention..

I can't see it being any more work than a different product. Two fairly quick passes was enough to get things looking good!


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#9 ·
In your experience savvyfox, would application of IPA damage Glare even if cured? If so I'm a bit surprised to hear that as IPA isn't a particularly aggressive solvent - even the naptha in eg Collinite wax is capable of taking tar off for instance!

I'm intrigued now - might have to do a bit of testing next time I do some Glare polishing :) I've been topping Glare with wax anyway because I'm a beading junkie :D I might just go back over one of those panels with some panel wipe to see if the swirls come back! I do seem to recall Stangalang attacking some Glare'd panels in just this way though and it stood up to it pretty well....
 
#8 ·
My car has currently been given the glare treatment using 3 stages and looked spot on and i topped it up with ADS Kostos for some very good water behaviour.

This was after i had visited Matt aka Stangalng and he'd done this on a number of occasions and suggested it was a good combo and i am likely to agree with him.

I'm shire Savvyfox will tell you that Glare doesn't need any extra protection or top up as it does a job on its own but the wax was literally there for some nice weather behaviour and nothing else.
 
#15 ·
Glare

Have a lot of experience with Glare
Don't waste your time with ceramic , if you have worked first coat in really well then put a second or third seal coat .
The ceramic will not bond properly
What I have found to work is Gyeon Wet Coat sits well and lasts a couple of months
Alternatively just buy some Glare car wash it adds a small amount in the wash bucket and keeps the finish topped up
:)
 
#16 ·
Have a lot of experience with Glare
Don't waste your time with ceramic , if you have worked first coat in really well then put a second or third seal coat .
The ceramic will not bond properly
What I have found to work is Gyeon Wet Coat sits well and lasts a couple of months
Alternatively just buy some Glare car wash it adds a small amount in the wash bucket and keeps the finish topped up
:)
Thanks for that. If I end up using Glare for my brother's Lexus presumably normal sealants will bond ok to it? Thinking of things like Sonax NPT which is supposed to be good for six months. On my own car I've been putting wax on the Glare'd panels, and wiping down with panel wipe to remove the wax if I wanted to top up the Glare.
 
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