I'm doing my first paint correction. Never really prepared for it only do normal bucket washes. This is what I'm guessing that will work. Only issue is that there's a lot of rinsing. Anything I can cut down on the 'prepare' list
After each polishing stage it would be best to use panel wipe,eraser or ipa to remove oils,especially before waxking.
What's with the 3 bucket wash mate...??
You should be using the tar remover, iron remover and clay bar AFTER the wash stage, not before. You could save a rinse stage by doing the following
Snow Foam
Rinse
Bucket wash (2 or 3!?)
Rinse
Tar remover
Rinse
Dry (to give a better dwell for next step)
Iron remover
Rinse
Clay
Bucket or snow foam
Rinse
Completely dry
Then onto the polishing stages, as above make sure you use a panel wipe between polish stages to give the best results!
Also no point using a QD before polishing, just a waste of product - unless you were going to use it as a drying aid? But still pretty pointless if you are polishing afterwards.
Personally I'd go for a better LSP than Collinite after all that effort beforehand!!
Start with the 205 on a white pad first, check results - if no good move up to orange pad - if still better results required go to the 105 and so forth. Always better to start with the least aggressive polish first and work your way up. The least amount of paint removed the better!
Also no point using a QD before polishing, just a waste of product - unless you were going to use it as a drying aid? But still pretty pointless if you are polishing afterwards.
Personally I'd go for a better LSP than Collinite after all that effort beforehand!!
Start with the 205 on a white pad first, check results - if no good move up to orange pad - if still better results required go to the 105 and so forth. Always better to start with the least aggressive polish first and work your way up. The least amount of paint removed the better!
What would be a better LSP ?
I have a black bmw and a white nissan juke so wanted something that would be ideal for both. As they both get dirty really fast from A roads
Be careful when polishing those cars! They are both going to require a completely different correction process. German paint is known for being extremely hard whilst Japanese paint is supposed to be soft. What works for the juke probably won't work for the BMW and what worked on the BMW would potentially ruin the Juke.
Better LSP - completely depends of what you're after and budget. Better durability you should be going down the sealant route, better finish look at a wax. Then you got to think about the budget! There's hundreds of threads on here looking at different LSPs
Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax is worth a punt for £15 (for a full size tin!) It's a "hybrid" wax so it is very durable (especially if you do two coats) but also gives a great finish. Even comes with an applicator and buffing MF :thumb:
Budget wise would want to keep it under 20. So can experiment with the stuff. Looking for durability more than looks, but still kinda want it to look like the effort I put in. Also something not time consuming as I just had a newborn so never know when I'm going to stop working on the car. Last time it happened as I was just about to dry lol.
DSW ticks all your boxes, it lasts for ages (especially if you use BH Cleanser Fluid to prep your paint), cures in about 5 minutes, and buffs off easy.
Thanks for the info. Ive looked at reviews on both the waxs and going to try the DWS. But guess I won't know how it is till I've tried it.
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