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Best wash procedure after ceramic coating

16K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  garycha 
#1 ·
I'm having the ceramic coating put on this week by a prof detailer, what products do I need to buy to maintain? Thinking foam for pre wash, or should I use some kind of citrus wash instead? Bathe or bathe + and finish with wet coat I assume..

Any advice greatly appreciated
 
#8 · (Edited)
Sorry to re-open an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone could help me.

I had MOHS+ applied 2 weeks ago, and this weekend will be the first wash.

I have been recommended to use Bathe+ and Cure after, but I was wondering if I could use Wet Coat instead of Cure, as I have heard it is easier to apply?

Could I ask, what is the difference between the two products, and are there any videos demonstrating how to apply/use them, sorry I am a total novice to the car cleaning world, always took my car to a hand car wash previously, but since having the new one and having it ceramic coated, I really want to learn how to wash the car correctly?

Sorry also forgot to add, I have a matt black foil wrapped roof, what products should I use on that?

Many thanks
 
#10 ·
With the coating being so fresh I would use plain bathe, and not bathe+ or any thing that will top it up or leave anything behind, as they simply won't perform as well as Mohs. After a few months or when water behaviour starts to slow down then sure top it up a little. But I think you'll find a bare shampoo and drying will see gloss and water behaviour impress you.
 
#11 ·
Bigblew - the difference between Q²M WetCoat and Q²M Cure is pretty huge and they have other functions as well.
Q²M WetCoat is only a hydrophobicity booster. It's not a protective product and it will give you the biggest benefits then the coating start becoming contaminated or will simply need a repellency boost.
Q²M Cure is the real maintenance spray for coated cars, as it contains silica and works as a ceramic detailer/spray sealant.
It's much more effective in prolonging the real durability of the protection a coating provides and helps to maintain the self cleaning abilities in tact.
My personal favourite combo in currently Q²M Bathe Essence, Q²M Cure, Q²M Smoothie and the Q²M SilkDryer towel. These are the basics and tbh all that you need to take care of your coated car in a safe and effective way...
 
#12 ·
So is Bathe Essence a new product then, my detailer didn't mention that one.

His aftercare schedule listed Bathe+ then Cure.
I do need to tell you though, that I have PPF on the front of the car and MOHS+ everywhere else, would you still recommend Bathe Essence and Cure now? He did apply the Cure product on the PPF as well to give my car the hydrophobicity everywhere, so really I need products that work on it all?

Also, to make matters even more complicated, I have a matte foil roof, which was fitted at the factory, but I don't want to put any sort of sheen on that, so what would you recommend to use on that?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I truly have no clue.

I intend to use Gyeon Foam to start with as well, does that fit in well?

Sorry!
 
#15 ·
He did give me an after care sheet, he was very good:

'*Please do not wash the vehicle for one week after coating application and SH PPF installation, to allow the coatings to fully cure and the film to adhere and edges to settle fully*

Aftercare Routine for Gyeon Coatings and Suntek Self Healing Paint Protection Film:

Paintwork Care procedure:

Ideally the vehicle should be snow foamed (using a foam lance, attached to a pressure washer - we recommend Gyeon Foam) to remove any surface dirt, ahead of making physical contact with the paint. To wash the vehicle, we recommend a high quality lambswool wash mitt (again, Gyeon make one) and the Gyeon Bathe+ Shampoo, which is made to be 100% compatible with the surface coatings applied to the vehicle. Use the wash mitt along with shampoo in a bucket of (ideally) warm water, and gently remove the remaining dirt from the surface. Follow this with a rinse to remove any suds from the shampoo, then carefully dry the surface with a dedicated drying towel (we recommend the Gyeon Silk Drying Towels). This should largely leave the car clean. It is worth investing in some Quick Detail (Gyeon Cure) which is applied maybe every 2-3 washes, or as required to add slickness and gloss to the surface, and again is compatible with the coating system. This can also be used to remove any smears or water marks following the drying process, and for area such as door shuts.

You can also, if you choose to, wax the car. This may reduce the hydrophobic effect on the car (as the wax become the new top layer of protection) but the underlying Gyeon Coating will remain.

Over time, the vehicle will collect contamination on its surface. The main types of contamination tend to be tar deposits (small black deposits), fallout (orange in colour) or tree sap. These can be safely removed, as and when required, using the corresponding Gyeon products - Tar, Q2M Iron and Clay products. If unsure, then please consult a professional Detailer (we are happy to advise as and when required, over the phone or via Email)

All of the above can also be applied to the wheels. However, depending on how corrosive the brake dust is on your particular vehicle, you may get 'brake dust pitting' occurring in the corners of your spokes, if your vehicle hasn't been washed for an extended period. Please do not scrub away at these deposits (brown/orange in colour), instead using Gyeon Q2M Iron to safely dissolve these deposits, and simply rinse away.

Tyres and Exhausts should be dressed and polished with respective products.

Glass Protection will last roughly 12 months, but this is mileage dependent - maybe 15,000 miles. This can then be retreated very easily.

Interior protection is approx. 18 months. You will note that any water will not penetrate the mats and will instead sit on top of the surface. Simply soak this excess up if required. If Chewing Gum comes into contact with the mats, then this should remove more easily than untreated mats. However, is residue remains, apply something frozen to these areas, then it will 'break up' when tackled.

Paint Protection Film - Care Procedure

Suntek Paint Protection Film incorporates a 'Self Healing' top coat which relevels when a heat source is applied (boiling water, heat gun, or the Sun). Most scratches (as severe as a scouring pad!), swirl marks and such will simply disappear when heat is applied.

Otherwise, when washing take care to not apply undue focus of a pressure washer to the edges of a film (where not wrapped) and wash towards the edges when using a wash mitt. There should never be a problem with any edges, so there isn't a need to be overly cautious, but it's best to apply best practice from a care perspective.

Usual wash and care guidance is in line with the paint procedure detailed above. The film isn't as 'slick' as paintwork (different surface tension) so applying Gyeon Cure after every wash may help in this respect.

Any dead insects should be removed with a 10% IPA mix, then heat applied afterwards for the surface to relevel, should an outline remain.

The film is warrantied against yellowing, cracking and various other defects (warranty form to follow) and we warranty our installation for 10 years so you are not only covered against defective film, but also any installation issues. Please contact us if a problem arises and we will address as a priority.'

But after coming on here, and seeing what other people have used, its always good to get some good advice, and when you have someone like Gyeon Jeremy to offer advice, you need to take advantage of that.
 
#18 ·
Bigblew - you've got professional advise from your detailer - something you might follow without hesitation.
You're on the biggest detailing forum in the universe here and I guess each and every user will have his own preference. Wanting to follow each tip would make you buy a ton of products. :)

I guess you should keep things simple. Take the safety of the wash routine as priority.
Start with a ph-neutral snow foam. Leave it to dwell and rinse.
Use the 2 bucket method. No matter which shampoo you choose, it should be safe and slick. Both Bathe+ and Bathe Essence are like that. I love the concentration of Bathe Essence and the superb slickness, so that would be my choice. However, feel free to use Bathe+ if you already got it!
Try your car with a soft, high quality towel.
Use Cure over every surface you wish. Although we have Cure Matte designed for matte finished surfaces, if you proceed with a low amount of the regular one, you can easily use it over paint, matte vinyl and PPF as well.
 
#21 ·
Good advice here. I had my new car pro-sealed (with Gtechniq Serum Ultra /ExoV3 last November. Similar to MOHS full Monty

Thanks to Santa I used just Gyeon Foam and Bathe for first two months. Nothing more. Results perfect. Let your new coatings do their thing - it's what you paid for.

Now, 3 months later, I just used same Gyeon Foam, but then added a stronger Citrus Pre wash stage to remove more winter crud. Then hand washed this time with Bathe, then faintly a light spray of Cure as topper. Like new again.
 
#20 ·
Worth investing in a citrus pre wash this time of year. Foam is crap for heavy dirt and it won’t remove it, so you’ll end up inflicting damage into the coatings

So follow Jeremy’s wash procedure but rinse the car first to get as much off as possible, then a citrus pre wash via a lance or pump sprayer. Plenty of good ones around which unfortunately Gyeon do not make as of yet.
After letting that dwell, rinse off and foam to get any last bits off. Then bucket wash and dry. I do this to all coated cars and the prewash is paramount in the maintenance of it

If you see water being held in high traffic areas ie lower doors a simple hit it with iron fallout remover will sort it as the coatings do get clogged

Hope this helps
 
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