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Durability test with coatings

71K views 109 replies 45 participants last post by  Speedy83 
#1 ·
Without any backgrounds, i just want to share my real life durability test (in Finland) with couple different coatings.

So, test object is my Volvo S40 1.6D.
Before it was possible to apply any LSP`s, the car needed prep to get beneficial base for coatings.

Car:





Pre-wash with VPNSF. Didn`t release dirt very well? Road salt is real problem here in Finland, because it sticks paint and might be hard to remove with wax safe products.



So, next step was degreaser, shampoo wash, tar remover, fallout remover and Sonax clay disc:















Car was really bad condition, so i needed to try bring some gloss back.

Before Bigfoot session, i ripped emblems off. After that i started to polish car with Bigfoot LHR 15ES, LHR 75E mini. I used Buff&Shine MF cutting pads and Rupes own pads with Scholl S3G. Here is some pics after cutting session:






















Same place after 2-3 cutting passes. Still deep scratches:



After polishing, there still was deep scratches so i had to wetsand a bit for get those nasty marks less noticeable and polish again.

Scratches:






I finished car with Bigfoot, yellow rupes pads and Scholl S30 (sorry, no pics).
After that i washed car with degreaser and dried with MF towel and compressed air. Then i taped test panels and let the car dry one our.
Finally before coatings, i wiped car with Bilt-Hamber Cleanser-Fluid.

I didn`t get prime quality because time was running out, but i got some gloss back to car and what`s more important, there was better base for coatings.






Start date 21.2.2016.

Products:

Horizontal panels (hood, roof and tailgate):

1. Gyeon Mohs (3 layers) + Booster + Cure
2. Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light + EXOv2
3. Wolf`s Chemicals Nano Polish + Nano Glaze + Mystery Juice
4. Sonax Nano Guard + Polymer Net Shield
5. CarPro Essence + CQuartz UK + Reload
6. Bilt-Hamber Finis-Wax
7. Gyeon Prime (2 layers) + Cure
8. Gyeon Mohs (3 layers) +Cure
9. CarPro CQuartz + Reload
10. Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light
11. Gtechniq EXOv2
12. Wolf`s Chemicals Mystery Juice
13. Nanolex Si3D (2 layers)
14. Sonax Nano Guard
15. Optimum Gloss-Coat
16. IgreenLover Quartz (2 layers)



Vertical panels (Wings and doors):

Left side:

1. Gyeon Prime + Booster + Cure
2. Gyeon Prime + Cure
3. CarPro CQuartz + Reload
4. Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light
5. Gtechniq EXOv2
6. Wolf`s Chemicals Mystery Juice

Right side:

7. Nanolex Si3D (2 layers)
8. Sonax Nano Guard
9. Optimum Gloss-Coat
10. IgreenLover (2 layers)
11. Gyeon Mohs (3 layers) + Cure
12. Bilt-Hamber Finis-Wax



Start date: 21.02.2016 0 km (0 miles)

Wash 1. 02.03.2016 431 km (268 miles) Degreaser + Wolf`s WS

Wash 2. 04.03.2016 800 km (497 miles) VPNSF + Wolf`s WS

Wash 3. 10.03.2016 1022 km (635 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 4. 18.03.2016 1870 km (1162 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 5. 24.03.2016 2486 km (1545 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 6. 01.04.2016 3032 km (1884 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 7. 08.04.2016 3389 km (2106 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 8. 15.04.2016 4256 km (2644 miles) Degreaser + Britemax Clean Max

Wash 9. 29.04.2016 5431 km (3374 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 10. 12.05.2016 6434 km (3998 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 11. 23.05.2016 7253 km (4507 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 12. 27.05.2016 7758 km (4820 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

Wash 13. 03.06.2016 8194 km (5091 miles) B-H Auto-Foam + Wolfs WS

(B-H Auto-Foam= Bilt-Hamber Auto-Foam, Wolfs WS=Wolf`s Chemicals White Satin shampoo)

Note:

I noticed after couple washes that Wolfs Mystery Juice had pretty poor hydrofobic and dirt repelling properties. So, i desided to re-apply it after wash number 7. Before re-applying, i washed car, polished panels 6 (left rear wing) and 12 (roof) with bigfoot mini/rupes yellow pad/Scholl S30. After polishing wiped with B-H Cleanser-Fluid.

Now after 13 washes, Wolfs Mystery Juice is again failing. Maybe it`s degreaser i`ve used (PH12, but i have used it only at 4% dilution ratio) or maybe it`s failing because it didn`t get time to bond 48 hours? Who knows..?

Wolfs nano polish/nano glaze/Mystery Juice has worked better, but now it`s also at poor condition as is Finis-Wax too.

Well, i will update this topic (i`m bit busy atm, but when i have some time) with pics (dirt repellency=big differences) and maybe some video clips.

Sorry my bad english..
 
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#38 ·
Ya but the other 2 you have mentioned are 2 products on top of each other whereas Si3D is only 1 which is an advantage.

Also CSL doesnt seem to be doing as well on its own so once the less durable EXO wears out then we will see it going the same way?
 
#39 · (Edited)
LuckyStrike - thanks for sharing. I have one question. Have you used cold water or warm water?

Bod42 - if you want to sniff vapor of butylacetate. It is your right. )
I do not want to breathe toxic vapors.


And waiting 30 washes results. Volvo clearcoat not soft and coatings work better on it.
 
#44 ·
LuckyStrike - thanks for sharing. I have one question. Have you used cold water or warm water?

Bod42 - if you want to sniff vapor of butylacetate. It is your right. )
I do not want to breathe toxic vapors.

And waiting 30 washes results. Volvo clearcoat not soft and coatings work better on it.
Kamikaze ISM are claimed as pure non solvent coating...and i know some people's that already drank it:tumbleweed:
 
#40 ·
Belive me, it`s know matter, which coating you put on your car. Always must use half mask respirator and right filter or full mask with right. Any kind of (one day) respirator don`t work there, It`s the same, when you put water on the sieve (if I look, how ceramic pro guys spray with out mask - let`s see what happened next year or another) This is ceramic and It`s permanent and you breathe this stuff inside. I recommend you to use minimum half mask with right filter and good googles. Very important to use right gloves. Like many gloves material (PVC, vinyl, latex, nitrile, butyl, silvershield and so one) and thousands chemicals must do test - penetration test. It`s mean, when chemical come through glove material outside to inside. Maximum time is class 6 (480 minutes - 8 hour - there is 6 classes, which mean time) This is maximum time, what standard 374 gives you to handle chemical. Every chemical maker must to test her chemical with glove and respirators, body covers and so on. and every chemical seller must give you that information - products sheet, what kind product you must use, but if you wan`t to clear that case, then you must to little homework. There know matter, what this chemical products consist - believe me - you must use personal protection staff to safe you health. :wave: Sorry my bad english.

Nanolex SI3D for me in this test is already winner or cheap sonax spray. Why? You use one coat, which perform better than some another Hi-Tec layered coats. Where is point - time is money - product is money (if you must buy different product - like csl + exo to coat each other). Today I haven`t use Nanolex or CSl-Exo. I wan`t to ask, if there any very big shine factor if we compare this products to each other). Which is why I like also MaxProtect UNC-R or new one. One coat and it perform 1,5-2 years and also good chemical resistant. I understand, if you live country, where shine is shineing and you must wash only dust off, but if you live country, where is snow, rain and salted highways all the time, then it`s different story. You must use product, which is good chemical resistant, because you can`t take this road grime off only with tardis or this kind of stuff.
 
#42 ·
Belive me, it`s know matter, which coating you put on your car. Always must use half mask respirator and right filter or full mask with right. Any kind of (one day) respirator don`t work there, It`s the same, when you put water on the sieve (if I look, how ceramic pro guys spray with out mask - let`s see what happened next year or another) This is ceramic and It`s permanent and you breathe this stuff inside. I recommend you to use minimum half mask with right filter and good googles. Very important to use right gloves. Like many gloves material (PVC, vinyl, latex, nitrile, butyl, silvershield and so one) and thousands chemicals must do test - penetration test. It`s mean, when chemical come through glove material outside to inside. Maximum time is class 6 (480 minutes - 8 hour - there is 6 classes, which mean time) This is maximum time, what standard 374 gives you to handle chemical. Every chemical maker must to test her chemical with glove and respirators, body covers and so on. and every chemical seller must give you that information - products sheet, what kind product you must use, but if you wan`t to clear that case, then you must to little homework. There know matter, what this chemical products consist - believe me - you must use personal protection staff to safe you health. :wave: Sorry my bad english.
Well said.....I too am the same I wear a 3M half mask with the correct filters I also double glove. These coatings are amazing but I really do think the health implications down the line will be akin to asbestosis...this stuff is not good to breath in!
 
#43 ·
Alasar, hope you don`t get me wrong. As I see, you use and sell Everglass. Could you tell me more about this product. How this products hold winter time. For me is very important, that products hold in winter time well, because I need to use pretty harsh chemical to clean car outside wintertime. And also important that products hold hydrophopic effect, because I wash my cars outside winter and wan`t to dry them only leaf blower.

Yes you are maybe right (I know you are doing a lot of chemical tests lot of coatings). What is you best, what you are find? Your own Everglass?
 
#54 · (Edited)
Alasar, hope you don`t get me wrong. As I see, you use and sell Everglass. Could you tell me more about this product. How this products hold winter time. For me is very important, that products hold in winter time well, because I need to use pretty harsh chemical to clean car outside wintertime. And also important that products hold hydrophopic effect, because I wash my cars outside winter and wan`t to dry them only leaf blower.

Yes you are maybe right (I know you are doing a lot of chemical tests lot of coatings). What is you best, what you are find? Your own Everglass?
If you interested in Everglass, I could send a free sample to you. Please PM to me for details.

Yes, I tested more than 50 longterm coatings since 2011 and thought to publish tests here, translated into English. But now I have no time and always something interferes.
 
#52 ·
Dude you are epic

Can I just say, how cool you are for doing this. Love this thread. Never thought about health problems with using this coatings until now. I have subscribed to this thread. Would like to see someday a comparison like this between pro ceramic coatings like CarPro Finest(am already authorized) and IGL Eco Coat pro(with 4 years of warranty), nanolex si3d HD, Gyeon..., Gtechniq... Must be really funny watching the car in the rain. Love from Slovenia
 
#72 ·
mohs was applied in a dust free climate controled spray cabin!

cured for 48 hours, then applied the gyeon cure, car was 3 stage polished, cleaned by a foam from nanolex pre wash (2x) air dryed the car, full wipe of gyeon prep... then every panel be for the coat prep again with gyeon prep.

imo the prep work was 110% done right!
 
#79 ·
Nanolex Pure, Gyeon Bathe and Monello Artico Magico Foam are PH-neutral stuff, so shouldn't affect negatively to Gyeon coatings.

IMO, coating might be clogged and you should try next wash time some tar/fallout removers and maybe some soft clay.

or something has gone wrong in application

or there's something "tricky" on your clearcoat. For example at Finnish detailing forum, there's one member which have problems with even waxes. He gets only about 2-3 weeks durability with Bilt-Hamber Finis-Wax (when i get 6+ months at Finnish winter time).

Does anyone else have ideas?
 
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