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Old 22-09-2008, 01:02 PM   #1
Shug
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Paint and filler over hydrate 80 and etchweld

Getting quite close to the point where I'll be looking to paint up my manta project.
At the moment the body is covered with hydrate, and etchweld where I've been welding. I plan on going back to bare metal but have a couple questions.
Can hydrate 80 be sprayed neatly as a base coat? Can it be watered down to a nice consistency to spray?
I'll be using a cellulose high build primer, and polyester metalised body filler (this one specifically http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...Cat=&subCatID= ). Will it go over/bond to hydrate 80 and etchweld ok? If not would something like barcoat (isolator primer) be needed/work?
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Old 23-09-2008, 09:50 AM   #2
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Hi Shug,

This project is taking some time! I look forward to the results mate, post some shots here while you're doing this part would you?

Ok, in answer to your questions. Firstly, if you're going back to bare metal and if the steel is sound and free of corrosion (which I think its going to be!), don't use Electrox as the base primer. Instead, use Etchweld - and this is why.

It'll grip a hell of a lot more than Electrox ever will (which is designed with different characteristics) and if you've got bare metal then that in itself is going to make Etchweld the ideal product. In terms of performance on other areas, there's no difference and of course, I'm assuming too, that the steel is going to be 'clean'. Classic car nuts routinely select Etchweld as the body primer of chiuce now, especially with ally bodied (race)cars.

As Etchweld is solvent based, use just bog standard cell thinners to get the desired consistancy. With regards to using a barcoat, Etchweld itself will be fine. Use a couple of mist coats (nice and light) to build up some layering and to act as an interface and ten spray the final and top later on.

Both Etchweld and Electrox will work beautifully with PM bodyfillers - no sweat. Good luck - if you have any more snags don't hesitate to give me a call (or pete of course) on 01277 658899, and lets see those fots.

al
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Old 23-09-2008, 10:00 AM   #3
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Is there an advantage in using electrox over etchweld? (other than for your sales figures )
Forgot to mention, there is one or two patches where I've done lead loading/solder stuff. I'm guessing etchweld will have no problems bonding on to it? (I did spray some on over it after I did it, but it looked right messy when I wanted to see how audi brilliant black would look on a patch, tho thats probably grime/surfex/dynax/bacon fat )

With the amount of hydrate 80, and the amount of dynax I pumped into every orifice (on the car!!!!) theres probably more BH than metal there now
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Old 23-09-2008, 10:11 AM   #4
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Nah, it'll be fine bonding with Pb. Sales figures? I wish I could flog you some Electrox, have you seen the price of Zinc ? Go for the Etchweld Shugsters - its better suited for this instance - in fact, Etchweld was almost made with people like you in mind. Of course, it can't do anything about your taste in cars..

I was thinking about making a cheap pitch to suggest you used the opportunity to Dynax it at the same time, but remembered that you hold a Bilt Hamber gold card. Whilst I'm on the subject, are you going to top the Dynax up after baking the body? Is it going in as a rolling chassis? It might be worth having some to hand of you have any left. Usually, we don't get heat related viscosity induced loss after baking, but a lot depends on how and where its applied, and of course, the oven temp.
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Old 23-09-2008, 10:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilt-hamber kid View Post
Usually, we don't get heat related viscosity induced loss after baking, but a lot depends on how and where its applied, and of course, the oven temp.
Maybe not, but you do with welding
Note to self. Stop setting fire to car.

I'll fire whatever dynax I have left into the chassis rails etc. once its all painted up.
At the moment the car looks like this (but with wheel arches and new sills welded on):



(ignore the metal ready. I was young and foolish )
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Old 23-09-2008, 01:09 PM   #6
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Seriously, thats one sweet looking car. So much better looking than the B (with hindsight).

I have had more projects over the past few years than I care to mention - currently doing a V8 Sebring conversion that is due for completion in 2037 AD. Pete had an old shed of a Merc at the factory a few years ago, and I was really tempted. I'm just a sucker for old sheds.
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Old 07-10-2008, 09:50 PM   #7
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Part one done in etchweld:




done with spray can. Didn't do any more cos I ran out. Get the etchweld brewing, I'm gonna be ordered a chunk more!
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:56 PM   #8
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Old 29-10-2008, 09:21 AM   #9
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Still not got this done, partially due to waiting on a new panel from germany, and trying to choose spray equipment.
Just one teensy little question now.
Same as above but with 2 pack?

Was gonna try find some non-isocyanate 2 pack, but not easy finding non 'agricultural' stuff.
Air fed masks aren't really that expensive and the finish should be a lot better and harder wearing.
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Old 25-03-2012, 04:58 AM   #10
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Any updates on this ?

Was the engine bay steel all clean, its just etch can lift up old paint and cause problems ?
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