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Old 12-11-2017, 07:56 PM   #1
Blueberry
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Rescued from the scourer !

I posted this on my owners group so apologies if it’s a little disjointed. It’s a long read !

I picked up my R on Saturday 7th October in Aberdeen after a long drive from East Yorkshire to collect him.

Although the car appeared to be mechanically sound, his appearance left a bit to be desired. He obviously hadn't been pampered by his previous owners as it looked like he had been scoured judging by the paintwork. I had a full week off work (coincidence) so I had lots of time to spend on getting him up to some kind of respectability. And boy did I need it !!!!

Monday 9th October
Time to start detailing !














As usual I started by cleaning the alloys. This involved power washing the alloys down, then using a variety of brushes, Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss shampoo and water and 2 buckets (one for washing, the other for rinsing the brushes) plus Carbon Collective React (iron contamination remover). I use a small detailing brush for the outer face, a Carbon Collective wheel wand for the barrels, dooms wheel wash pad for getting behind the spokes, an Optimum wheel mitt for the wheel arches and a stiff brush and APC to scrub down the tyres to remove any remains of tyre dressing to get them really clean. The wheels would be taken off later in the he week to have the barrels properly cleaned and then be Ceramic coated.



Next it was on to pre washing the car. To ensure pre wash got into all nooks and crannies, I snow foamed the car with KKD Blizzard Force, using around one inch of snow foam in the foam bottle before topping with water. This was then applied to the whole car using my Nilfisk P150 power washer.

Whilst it was dwelling on the car I worked around the car with a small detailing brush and Meguiars APC and Auto Glanz bug remover getting into all nooks and crannies, door shuts, petrol cap, edge of all the windows, window rubber trim, all edges etc etc.

After 5 minutes it was thoroughly rinsed off.

Next it was onto my next pre wash, which would really give the paintwork a deep clean. Koch Chemie Green Star diluted 1:20 into a garden chemical sprayer, as shown.



This is sprayed all over the car and left to dwell for 5 minutes before being thoroughly power washed down, rinsing from the bottom, upwards.

Then it was on to physically washing the car. Here I used 2 buckets (different from the wheel buckets), one for the shampoo and water (Gyeon Bathe shampoo) and the other bucket with water only for rinsing my Dooka wash mitt. It's super soft this wash mitt and thick, so less chance of scratching the paintwork.

The car was thoroughly washed starting with the roof and working down, including in the door shuts, boot and lastly the engine bay and under bonnet, using an old Dooka wash mitt. The car was then dried using the huge Wooly Mammoth drying towel.

At this stage, the engine bay was sprayed with 303 Aerospace Protectant and left. I wouldn't revisit this until Saturday !

Decontamination :
The car was power washed down and dried before it was on to the decontamination process. First I started with removing tar, using Autosmart Tardis, the best tar remover in my opinion. This is sprayed on and left for around 4 minutes, agitate if required, ensuring its thoroughly rinsed off. This was done panel by panel, working around the car.

Next it was on to removing iron contaminants by spraying Carpro Iron X and Carbon Collective React onto the paintwork. Waited for it to turn purple/red which isn't easy to see on a black car, leaving it no more than 4 minutes or so, then thoroughly power wash down. Again I did this panel by panel.

Claying :
Now on to the final step of the decontamination process, claying.

Using my favoured clay bar, Meguiars, I break it up into several pieces. Then using my clay lube which is Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer I ensured the paintwork was thoroughly sprayed with the clay lube as well as the actual clay bar, before moving my hand slowly back and forth across the paintwork, cupping the clay bar in in my fingers without applying any pressure. This is very important ! Never move the clay bar over any paintwork that hasn't had any clay lube sprayed on it, I then dried each panel as I worked around the whole car. Also remember to fold the clay bar to a clean side when it becomes very contaminated or every panel. The paintwork was feeling and sounding much smoother now.



Photo of bonnet


These processes had taken me 4 hours already !

Now we were ready to start machine polishing the paintwork. Now the hard work begins









Starting with side panels first, I first took paint depth readings using my gauge to see how much paint I had to play with. Readings all around the car were very similar, average 118 microns, which is good news for me as I know there has been no re-sprays or repairs to any of the paintwork.

Using my favourite polishes, Scholl Concepts S20 and Chemical Guys Quantum pads and my Vertool Forced Drive polisher, I started with the general workhorse pad, white. This wasn't removing some of the deeper marks so I changed to an orange pad. Using the same polish, this combination was giving some better results on the heavier marks in the paintwork but in some cases it was taking 2 sets to achieve a finish I was happy with. 3 hours of polishing on the big panels on both sides of the car were completed before the light went. Smaller, tighter areas on the side panels or where spot polishing was required, would be dealt with using my Shinemate, later in the week. A total of 7 / 8 hours spent so far on the car.



Tuesday 10th October

I only had the morning to concentrate on the car so I started at 9am on the bonnet. Again using the Vertool Forced Drive polisher, Scholl Concepts polishes and Chemical Guys Quantum pads I started with the white pad and S20 which was finishing down nicely but the bonnet and front grill has suffered a lot of stone chips and has some deeper marks and even scratches. Deciding I needed more cut to make the marks less noticeable and/or remove them, I upped the polish to S3 and used the orange polishing pad before refining the paint with S40 and a black polishing pad. It was really hard going on the bonnet and grill and it took a little over 3 hours on this area alone to achieve the results I was after but also remembering that removing as little paint as possible was the main objective.

There were some points today where I muttered to myself, "why on earth did I buy black" because all I could see were the imperfections but my better half kept saying how good it was looking. I wasn't convinced but I could do no more today.





Wednesday 11th October
No work on Angus today

Thursday 12th October
Again, I only had the morning to work on AngusR. This time it was rear bumper and bootlid. This was probably the worst areas of the whole car.


I used the same pad and polish combination as I used on the bonnet, which was Scholl S3 and orange pad with the Vertool polisher. A couple of sets were required all over this area. Then this was followed up by S40 and a black polishing pad. S40 adds gloss and is a finishing polish. A finishing polish is always required when using a compound (aggressive cutting polish) and coarser pad.

The bootlid and rear bumper were very hard work. On par with the bonnet. Again it took me more than 3 hours just to polish this area and get it to a finish I was happy to leave it.

That was all I had time for today.




Friday 13th October
I should really have stayed in bed on this day (note the date!) but I had to crack on with the car.

Now I had corrected and refined the larger area panels all around the car. This morning I concentrated on polishing and correcting some of the tighter, more difficult areas that required my smaller polisher and pads. For this I used the Shinemate ep803 mini rotary polisher. These included around the wing mirrors, Lower side panels, rear panels above number plate and near badges and inside the door shuts. Scholl S20 and S40 polishes were used on these areas.

Finally, the roof was polished with the Vertool polisher using Scholl S20 and white polishing pad. This combination can finish down well as long as you refine the finish by lowering the speed (around speed 2-3) after you have finished the cutting process at high speed (5-6)



Finally the polishing of the paintwork was finished, after a total of around 13 hours !

Next on the agenda was to smarten up those exhaust pipes. They were looking manky but I knew I could get them shining again with a bit of effort. The inside of the exhaust pipes on the R are painted black. I wanted to remove this, like I had with my previous R so I got my tools together.

A drill, 3 polishing cones, the Britemax Twins metal polish, Auto Finesse metal polish, some wire wool extra fine grade 0000, some wet and dry.

The polishing cones are made of foam. There are 3 colours of polishing cones and have a stiffness / coarseness as follows :

Yellow T80 Fine, Orange T60 Medium, Blue T40 Coarse

I used the blue for the majority of the polishing, before moving to the Orange. The Auto Finesse Mercury is quite coarse and works well with the blue and orange cones. The very edge of the exhausts the cones can't really get to so wire wool and some wet and dry used by hand removed the rest of the black soot that was engrained. One all the black soot had been removed including underneath the exhausts then I used the Britemax finishing metal polish to bring the shine back. This is left to haze before being wiped off and buffed up by hand.

The pipes were now looking how I liked them.







That was complete for today.

Saturday 14th October

Another early start to the day. This morning is where I apply all the coatings to the paintwork, glass, alloys and interior.

✔️Starting with the paintwork, which has all been wiped down with Gtechniq Panel Wipe to remove all traces of polishing oils and give a pure, clean surface on which to put the coating. This also helps the coating adhere to the paint as it needs a squeaky clean surface to perform to its best potential. My favourite coating is Fireball Nano Coat. I use the professional version but the version available to the public is just as good and a little easier to apply. The professional version gives slightly better gloss, beading and sheeting. I love the pure round beads Fireball products give me. It's amazing. This is a spray on coating and will last a year or more but it's so easy to apply, you can top it up if you require it. I spray it on to a clean M.D. cloth, spread and then wipe with a clean my.

✔️Glass coating:
Next it was time to coat the glass all round. For this I used Gyeon View. One coat was applied to the windscreen, side windows as well as the rear window. Again, being careful not to let it dry.

Before applying the coating, the glass was clayed, using Meguiars clay bar. This was then polished with Gyeon glass polish which comes as part of the Gyeon View kit. Gtechniq glass cleaner was then applied to make sure all glass was really clean. Using the application block which comes with the kit, the glass coating was applied in straight lines, horizontally and then vertically on the windscreen, to ensure even coverage. The residue is then buffed off. The same process is applied to all the glass.

✔️Alloy coating
At this point the car was jacked up and the alloys removed to deep clean them. Koch Chemie Green Star diluted 1:20 was sprayed on them, iron contamination remover, React and also Tardis sprayed on to remove tar and alloy weight glue residue. The alloys were fully dried and then wiped down with Gtechniq Panel Wipe before Carbon Collective Platinum Wheels was applied to the barrels and front spokes.

The alloys will require a full refurbishment during the wintertime to make them look like new again. The front spokes have no curbing so they look ok in that respect but they need to be improved.






✔️Alloys
Whilst the alloys were off the car, the rear drums and guard were painted silver.



The engine bay which I sprayed with a nice finish. down and buff





















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Old 12-11-2017, 08:03 PM   #2
suspal
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A lot better needed some tlc,nice touch.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:03 PM   #3
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That's looking in much better shape now. The exhaust tips make all the difference too.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:07 PM   #4
neilb62
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Just-wow....... What a stunning transformation, great photo's too....
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:31 PM   #5
alfajim
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great job. you've earned a sit down after that.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:31 PM   #6
JoeyJoeJo
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Brilliant transformation and write up
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:36 PM   #7
Kerr
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Looks great.

What happened to your other RCZ-R?
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:41 PM   #8
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Loving the transformation but the pics were huge on my laptop which kinda spoilt the full read/viewing.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:44 PM   #9
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Excellent job
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:52 PM   #10
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Wow, that looks superb
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