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Old 25-07-2018, 01:02 PM   #1
SteveMGF
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Advice on polish/pads to bring out the best on Jaguar XF ‘08 plate

Hi guys,

It’s been a while since posting, my MGF is still looking great thanks to the advice I’ve had here, hence coming back for more advice!!

My Father has just bought a 2008 Jaguar XF 2.7 V6 Premium Luxury in metallic black. As with most used cars, it comes with its fair share of marks and swirls to the bodywork, although no apparent deep marks.

Obviously, we want to get her back to full glory, or as near as possible. I’ve said that I would happily bust out my DA to do the donkey work and he’s said that he would get the relevant (or most appropriate) products to do the job.

The equipment/polishses I have are:

‘Savers Choice’ DA with 5” & 3.5” plates
CG Hexlogic pads for both plates in green, white and black
Polish - Menzerna starter kit - Heavy cut, medium, super finish & super finish plus
Primal Amigo
AG HD wax
AG HD wash
Meguiars MF cloths

Now, not sure if the above is appropriate for Jag paint or if we should be looking at other combinations of pads & polishes etc etc etc.

Any help on the subject very much appreciated. I’ll try and get some pics up as soon as we get the motor on Monday!

Cheers
Steve.
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Old 25-07-2018, 03:09 PM   #2
EG30
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I would use what you got first before considering buying new pads and polishes.

Current Menz range is mint.

I would do some test spots on the car first, ie Menz medium ( assuming it's 2200, 2400 products) on the white pad first and see if that gives you the cut you need, otherwise step up to the green pad.

I would only use the heavy cut 400 for very severe defects and the Jag paint not the rock hard type I don't see the need.

Either the super finish or super finish plus on the black pad would finish up the paintwork great with a wet look.
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Old 26-07-2018, 07:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EG30 View Post
I would use what you got first before considering buying new pads and polishes.

Current Menz range is mint.

I would do some test spots on the car first, ie Menz medium ( assuming it's 2200, 2400 products) on the white pad first and see if that gives you the cut you need, otherwise step up to the green pad.

I would only use the heavy cut 400 for very severe defects and the Jag paint not the rock hard type I don't see the need.

Either the super finish or super finish plus on the black pad would finish up the paintwork great with a wet look.
This sums it up really well.

Maybe also see if you can get your hands on some tar and fallout remover and a clay bar. Just to decontaminate the paint fully before introducing your polisher and pads to the paint.
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Old 27-07-2018, 10:29 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention that I do have a G3 clay mitt, but no fallout or tar remover. Recommendations for those are welcome as we’d like the metallic paint to really pop and we’re not sure about what products are best.

I/we are considering investing in some kind of snow foam equipment. Read that Bilt Hamber is good, not heavy foam but good cleaning power. Again recommendations more than welcome.

Anything we’ve missed in the process?
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Old 27-07-2018, 11:26 PM   #5
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Oh, here’s a quick pic...more to follow

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Old 28-07-2018, 09:28 AM   #6
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For the pre wash id suggest buying Bilt hamber autofoam. Its the best on the market. I would use it through a 5 litre pump sprayer rather than a snow foam lance. It will be just as effective you will just use less product than through a foam lance

Iron removers vary between sellers. Some contain more of the chemical that reacts with the iron particles so cost more. I think the best 3 fallout removers on the market are dooka bleed, carpro iron x and bilt hamber korrosol.

If your going to use your G3 mitt, try it on a small test section first. Personally i hate the thing and think its one of the worst things i ever used. Your paints black so will show everything. The G3 mitt marrs terribley. I think users have different experiences based on paint hardness and obviously the colour. Someone who has a white VW with hard paint will notice less marks than someone with a dark colour with soft paint.
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Old 28-07-2018, 12:01 PM   #7
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Oh, here’s a quick pic...more to follow

Did you use the heavy cut on the number plate?
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Old 28-07-2018, 08:48 PM   #8
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I agree with the findings of wish wash on the G3 clay mitt, now use BH soft clay
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Old 28-07-2018, 10:45 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replies, very helpful indeed. Oh, and the pic I posted was of the car in the dealership.looks clean but up close, quite grotty. I think someone must have stolen the letters of the plate.....

Must admit, I wasn’t a big fan of the mitt, used AG clay before and found it better but read here to give it a whirl....it did marr my MG a bit but maybe me and my heavy hand, not sure. Saying that, I prefer using a clay bar anyway, so might give the BH Version a go.

Auto foam through a pump spray sounds good to me. Is there a particular kind of pump I need and does it need to be 5L? - garden/insecticide pumps or a specific pump for car washing? - I saw this one for foaming but it’s only 1.5L

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...e-sprayer.html

Also, what’s the difference between korrosol and surfex hd? - would I use both? - read that some people mix a bit of SHD with korrosol but dunno if we should?

My god, so many products, it’s boggling. So is the order in which to use them all!. Correct me, but my thinking on this is prior to even touching the paint with a polisher:

Initial jet wash to remove as much crud as possible
Autofoam via pump sprayer and rinse
Korrosol and rinse
Clay and rinse
Shampoo and rinse

Help me out with your experience fellas

Last edited by SteveMGF; 28-07-2018 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 29-07-2018, 02:04 AM   #10
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With the medium paint you have, soft clay bar or soft and tacky clay towel such as the carpro item would be suitable.

Not sure how much contamination you have on the surfaces of your car, need to feel it with your hand.

If I had a car like yours, assuming there are a light layer of bonded contamination and not overspray all over the car; I would knock it down with a soft clay towel ( ie not the stiff and aggressive G3 item ) on a washed car lubed by soapy water ( ie soaked with car soap ). You would be able to feel and hear how much contamination there is on the surface as you rub across the paintwork in a fast but light motion.

Once that is done feel the surface by your hand and if there is any isolated stubborn spots leftover go over those with a clay bar.

As for tar and Iron removal I use wax/grease remover bought from paint supplies shop and spray liberally on the surfaces of car to rid of the tar ( mostly lower surfaces behind wheels ); and for iron removal I would either use colour changing oxidising mag wheel cleaner such as the Sonax full effect wheel cleaner, or acid cleaner if I need something stronger.

To make the flakes pop it's more to do with the polishing stage of the paintwork and the preparation part is more for making sure you don't have the contaminants getting dragging onto the pad and end up marring the paint.
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