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Old 27-07-2018, 07:59 PM   #11
pxr5
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Originally Posted by bigalc View Post
Sorry but i can't agree that using srp would be a waste of time.
For a first time user it will let him get used to the feel of the polisher and show him a big difference than when done by hand.

When starting out the last thing you want is to use something with a cut and the chance to do damage.

Get the feel of the machine with as little a cut as possible until you feel confident enought to try polishes and compounds.
Always use the least aggressive first.
Try and get a bonnet or wing from a scrappy to practice on.
Watch plenty of videos on youtube.
^^ Well said and I totally agree with this. It's what I did. But with BH Cleanser Polish
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Old 28-07-2018, 07:30 AM   #12
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I have the Challenge DA... and my one and only foray into correction work went very well with it and a cheap set of those pads from ebay... about £3 for 4 pads if I recall.

I just equated pad hardness with cut as there were no instructions. Visually they looked like the Hexlogic pads... and with most gear made out East there probably are some common elements.

Used Menzerna 2200 to take out some spider webbing and dulling I'd created from wet sanding some touch up spots with the 'middle' pad (it was white so think it was their polishing pad, a la Lake County's colour scheme?) and the car came up a treat.

I worked it very very slowly, probably too slowly but no issues. Machine was a little on the heavy side on the verticals as I'm not the strongest. But I spread the work over most of the afternoon.

So my experience is very good with it. Might not be a long throw, double oscillating, tripleback somersault with pike version of a DA, but you can get a good job done for under £70 all in if you buy the ancillaries (pads and compound) from ebay.

Who cares if the machine is built to a price, you only cut once or twice in a car's lifetime... and if you used it for polishing, that's light duty work for it.
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Old 28-07-2018, 08:24 AM   #13
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Price has gone up to £59.99. Sold out mostly near me.
The power of Detailing World ?
Damn
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Old 28-07-2018, 10:22 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by pxr5 View Post
^^ Well said and I totally agree with this. It's what I did. But with BH Cleanser Polish
I quite fancy trying cleanser polish, is it significantly better than SRP?
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Old 28-07-2018, 10:49 AM   #15
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I’ve used the duren 600w version probably similar if not the same as the challenge. Even for a very beginner I’d say it lacks power to get the cut you’ll need. It’ll be bogging down too much and the time you’ll be putting in to get any sort of results will outweigh the cost of a more expensive machine.

The das-6 pro would be the better alternative for me. I’ve also seen far too much on here about starting with compounds or polishes with little to no cut. If you’re trying to correct paint to as close to perfection as you can then you’ll need to go heavy. Much better in my eyes to get the correcting done and refine if needed than start light, then medium then have to resort to heavy as you’ve actually taken off more clear coat this way.

You’ll find most good compounds now will finish extremely well and to be honest most of the time I can’t tell the difference after another stage. A glaze will give a nicer finish and is worth it before a nice coat of wax


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Old 28-07-2018, 10:57 AM   #16
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I quite fancy trying cleanser polish, is it significantly better than SRP?
No, not really. I had some around so I used that. It's very, very runny compared to SRP.
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Old 29-07-2018, 01:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iCraig View Post
Car is a 2011 Black Ford Focus with minor to medium swirls with quite a few scratches that haven't gone beneath the clear coat.

Expectation is near to perfection as I can get as an amateur just starting with machine polishing.
I see.

Without plenty practice and buying a more decent buffer with a range of pads and polishing liquids in the hope of achieving a very high standard of finish; you are better off working with the lame buffer you currently have along with SRP.

At least with machine polishing the results will be more even than by hand.

So go over the car once with SRP and see if you are happy with the results right afterwards and in a few weeks when the fillers start wearing off.

If you want to get more serious in terms of more procedures and buying more products plenty of us here will be able to give you the rundown.
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Old 30-07-2018, 04:35 PM   #18
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Following on from the above, how do you know when the pad has been saturated and cleaned or swapped for a fresh one? Can foam pads be used damp or do they interfere with the oils and diminishing abrasives? Is a pass eg. left to right, or is it left to right, back to the left and up and down in both directions - or is that a set??
In my case, I'm gonna be using SRP firstly but will then progress onto Britemax Blackmax.
Sorry for all the questions but I'd rather as many pointers in the right direction before I start
Also sorry for hijacking the thread but thought it was relevant to being a beginner and starting with SRP
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Old 31-07-2018, 06:11 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Dazednconfused View Post
Following on from the above, how do you know when the pad has been saturated and cleaned or swapped for a fresh one? Can foam pads be used damp or do they interfere with the oils and diminishing abrasives? Is a pass eg. left to right, or is it left to right, back to the left and up and down in both directions - or is that a set??
In my case, I'm gonna be using SRP firstly but will then progress onto Britemax Blackmax.
Sorry for all the questions but I'd rather as many pointers in the right direction before I start
Also sorry for hijacking the thread but thought it was relevant to being a beginner and starting with SRP
I beleive 'pass' is your working area gone over in one direction (i.e. left to right) once and 'set' is how many times you do that on the one pad load.

I think a set would consist of 4 to 6 passes and a working area of 2ft x 2ft max.

If you then work with 3 - 4 blobs (20p piece size) product on a 'primed' pad until it goes clear, that gives you the rate you should be moving your arms at.You will be surprised how long a pass will take.

Look up Junkman videos on Youtube... he's well followed by all accounts.

Pad can be primed with product rubbed in or a couple of sprays of Quick Detailer will do. The former is perceived better as it means you are cutting/polishing from the off rather than losing some of the first lot into the pad.

As for cleaning pads... every 2 panels max... depends on how much cutting you are doing. Cleaning can be done dry. See Mike Phillips Pad Cleaning On the Fly technique... basically uses a bath towel on a rotating pad and drives the nap into the pad. Good enough for him, good enough for me.

And bear in mind I've done this once... so all of the above stands to be corrected by people that are experts.

Bottom line.. loads of help on Youtube.

Last edited by BarryAllen; 31-07-2018 at 06:23 AM.
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