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Projects and Restorations Building a car from scratch, restoring your pride and joy, building a track car, or starting a long term project? This is your place to document it.

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Old 08-10-2018, 10:06 PM   #11
Andyblue
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Oh that sounds excellent news

Looking forward to updates
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:25 AM   #12
S800BRN
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Refreshing to see a cared for Subaru.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:33 AM   #13
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These are really special cars, you've done well to find a nice one now as they do all seem to have been butchered and modded at some point.

I had a 2001 Bugeye for nearly 4 years and it's still the best car I've ever owned. They have a combination of steering feel, ride, cornering poise and grip that is just about perfect in standard form and are a pleasure to drive on every type of road.

I did loads of road trips across Europe and used it daily to commute covering around 60 or 70k in the time I had it and it still sticks with me 10 years after I sold it just how good it was.

Glad to see there are some nice ones around.
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Old 09-10-2018, 03:34 PM   #14
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Looks nice and clean. I would strongly advise taking the skirts off (a five minute job per side) and check for rust and rot on the sills. The nearside rear wheelarch also seems to be bad for rust where it meets the floor panel (I worked on one a few years ago which was 2007 and already had a hole there). Mine is an '03 and doesn't have a hole but is definitely showing signs of corrosion.

Pull out the nearside boot liner and look down into the pocket behind the wheelarch where the jack etc sits. Spray BH Dynax in here copiously.

Pop out the clips from underneath the skirts and then pull out and up in a rotating motion. Areas to check are the sill jacking points (people use trolley jacks on these points which ruins the sill), and also the back of the vertical joint which gets a lot of surface rust. Basically, get some good underseal and crawl underneath and take your time. If you're hands on with mechanics I'd also suggest taking the U-shaped chassis brace off and giving that an internal coat of wax too - they're a couple of hundred quid to replace and some MOT testers count rot on them as a serious fail.

Also, depending on how you drive and what sort of roads you'd drive I'd highly recommend an Anti-lift kit on them (actually an anti anti-lift kit) which gives much better turn in and reduces the need for left foot braking to get the front end turned in at speed on tighter corners. While they can be c£150 you can quite often pick then up used on ebay still attached to a set of the aluminium LCA's from the saloon for similar money. If you don't do that then it would be well worth checking with Subaru that the LCA's have been replaced as part of the recall a few years ago as the steel ones are bad from rusting from the inside out (what happened to Hammond's one on the Top Gear Nile special episode).
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennoch View Post
Looks nice and clean. I would strongly advise taking the skirts off (a five minute job per side) and check for rust and rot on the sills. The nearside rear wheelarch also seems to be bad for rust where it meets the floor panel (I worked on one a few years ago which was 2007 and already had a hole there). Mine is an '03 and doesn't have a hole but is definitely showing signs of corrosion.

Pull out the nearside boot liner and look down into the pocket behind the wheelarch where the jack etc sits. Spray BH Dynax in here copiously.

Pop out the clips from underneath the skirts and then pull out and up in a rotating motion. Areas to check are the sill jacking points (people use trolley jacks on these points which ruins the sill), and also the back of the vertical joint which gets a lot of surface rust. Basically, get some good underseal and crawl underneath and take your time. If you're hands on with mechanics I'd also suggest taking the U-shaped chassis brace off and giving that an internal coat of wax too - they're a couple of hundred quid to replace and some MOT testers count rot on them as a serious fail.

Also, depending on how you drive and what sort of roads you'd drive I'd highly recommend an Anti-lift kit on them (actually an anti anti-lift kit) which gives much better turn in and reduces the need for left foot braking to get the front end turned in at speed on tighter corners. While they can be c£150 you can quite often pick then up used on ebay still attached to a set of the aluminium LCA's from the saloon for similar money. If you don't do that then it would be well worth checking with Subaru that the LCA's have been replaced as part of the recall a few years ago as the steel ones are bad from rusting from the inside out (what happened to Hammond's one on the Top Gear Nile special episode).
Brilliant! Thanks very much, just what I was looking for. The LCA's have been upgraded to the saloon version (so I have been told and tbh I believe) as part of the suspension refresh as they are made of different/stronger metal?
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:24 PM   #16
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Looks a very tidy car mate. Good find


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Old 09-10-2018, 09:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by scooobydont View Post
Brilliant! Thanks very much, just what I was looking for. The LCA's have been upgraded to the saloon version (so I have been told and tbh I believe) as part of the suspension refresh as they are made of different/stronger metal?
No worries! The wagon ones were pressed steel items whereas the saloon ones were cast aluminium which you'd need to be going hard at to ever break. I see now in the suspension pic that they've already been replaced. If you look at the back mounting you'll see a black pin bolted on which you can flip around 180 degrees to gain some additional castor in the suspension. While you're looking there, there'll be a mounting with a bush that bolts onto the chassis. If this is silver then it's likely to be stock, but if it's gold/black etc then it's likely you've already got an ALK on there. I can't imagine all that effort would go into the suspension to not fit it, but everyone's different in what they want from a car. Is it KYB struts that have been fitted with the stock springs, or were the springs upgraded too?

If you pull the sills off and then treat any surface rust and then do the usual paint etc, you'd be best using something like raptor load bed liner, or if you want to avoid the sills looking black then Dynax UC would be a good option. I'm leaving the sills off mine as I reckon it looks better without them anyway, but it also means I won't have mud being trapped between the sill and the plastic to continue rotting the metal once I've had it all welded. I only discovered my rot after getting some twisted STI skirts to fit! The downside of leaving the skirts off is that you end up with the holes from the mounting clips. I'm going to have them welded in along with the rot!

Top tip for jacking; use the little plate behind the sump with a trolley jack, and the rear diff. These are the documented jacking points for a trolley in the manual and save you trashing the sills.

Do you have any modification plans for it?
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:32 PM   #18
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Probably quicker to post from the ad

Recent front suspension rebuild (KYB Excel G shocks, top mounts, bump stops, track rod ends, drop links, bottom balljoints and saloon alloy arm upgrade) upgrade discs front and rear, pads, new front calipers and brake lines, polybush front anti roll mounts, Whiteline rear anti roll bar (adjustable) and poly bushes, rear KYB Excel G shocks. Genuine Subaru STI stainless exhaust.
Wheels recently refurbished in original colour, full set Continental Sport Contact tyres with circa 4 – 5 mm tread remaining, new genuine Subaru chrome nuts!
Recent windscreen replacement, PIAA silicon wipers.
New Bosch battery (4 yr guarantee), new air con condenser, sump replaced, filters, plugs etc 4k miles ago, recent radiator.

No mods planned, I want to keep it stock as I can. I have lusted over one of these for years and dont want to really start modding it, I think it is rarer to find one of these in its (almost) original condition. It even has the original dealer sticker in the back window (might be a repro of course). Plan is to get the bodywork fixed (slight crease in rear arch and a small ding in a door).

Just back from my first proper run in it, its amazing. It can be nice and sensible around town, open it up and it really pulls. The suspension refresh can really be felt, the car feels really planted without feeling crashy at all. It is going to take a bit of getting used to.

There wont be any updates for a week or 2 as I am heading off on hols but will take your advise and check down by the boot, get the lining off on the nearside arches and take the sills off. Will of course update in due course, thanks again for the pointers, totally new to the Subaru world but can see why they have the following they do.

I am still beaming to actually have it

Last edited by scooobydont; 09-10-2018 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:36 PM   #19
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I have actually just looked through your recent posts and I have read the thread on your subaru (more than once) before. Yours look absolutely stunning!
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:00 PM   #20
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Good plan! Sounds well sorted tbh, and being a grey wagon it's also subtle so allows you to drive like a hoon and get away with it a lot more readily than you would in a blue, huge spoilered saloon. Looks like you've got the HID lights on the front too which are a pretty nice upgrade.

The radiator is a common one so it's good that you've got that done, and my sump will need doing soon too so you do seem to have a good list of work there. Keeping it stock is definitely the way to go, I put up with 3 years of ruined ride from the coilovers I had. The stock WRX spec is pretty perfect as a car you drive daily, and on rough roads means you can really push on without too much bucking and crashing. I like the STI/Koni setup I've got now but it's still not the pillow ride of the standard stuff.

If you need a hand with any of the stripping/pointers etc then just give me a PM and I'll set you in the right direction. Nasioc, RS25 etc are full of useful guides too if you spend a bit of time googling.
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