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Interior & Glass Discuss All your Interior Issue - Dash - Seats and All the Car Glass Areas - Interior Dressing, Leather etc

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Old 10-10-2017, 09:33 AM   #1
Fentum
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Cleaning Hardura and 60s Vinyl

Over the winter months, I'm going to undertake the renovation of the interior of my E Type.

When I restore a car, I try to keep as much of the original as possible and repair rather than replace.

All the trim is stripped from the car and I intend renewing all the seals, gaskets etc because these do fail with age. I also need, joy of joys, to fit a new headliner as the current one was damaged on removal.

I know what to do regarding the glass, chrome, steel, carpets and leather but am more unsure about the period trim.

Am I OK using Koch Chemie Green Star, Plast Star and Top Star on the Hardura and the vinyls inside the car?

I would always test an inconspicuous area first (indeed I might buy some bits from eBay to experiment first but that won't tell much much about long term effects).

I thought I'd ask here as the E type restoration forums either have people who rip out all the old stuff and get a retrim or the kinds of "beards" who use Jeyes Fluid on everything

Grateful for any thoughts or alternative approaches.

Peter
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:19 AM   #2
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From here:

Quote:
PVC is chemically resistant to acids, salts, bases, fats, and alcohols;
So any mild APC should be just fine. I suspect it's mechanical rather than chemical damage you need to look out for.
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:10 PM   #3
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When I use to look after my friends old America muscle cars all of them had Vinyl seats card doors and other parts where covered. What I found that cleaned them well was Meguairs APC 20-1 with a white 100% cotton cloth as it will show you how much dirt comes off but be gentle with the pressure you apply.

For protection I use Duragloss 301 it will dry to a clear durable coating and will not crack.
Can be bought now from serious performance site and it's in the sale section.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:21 PM   #4
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Gents, thank you.

So, as ever, start mild, and review carefully as you go! I have the long nights of autumn to fill, so in no rush.

I have a set of brushes ranging from a favourite bathroom nailbrush to blusher applicators, so should be well equipped.

Re condition, the speedo says 29,000 miles and the state of the interior (especially the pedals) suggests that might be true. It certainly does not suggest 129,000 or 229,000 anyway. Trouble might arise from exposure to first Californian and then Dubai sun.

Peter
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:13 PM   #5
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Wow Peter - what a fab challenge.

Any pics of the E type?

Cheers.

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Old 10-10-2017, 07:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Wow Peter - what a fab challenge.

Any pics of the E type?

Cheers.

Cooks
Cooks,

Anything to oblige.

When I have more interesting things to show, I'll open up a resto thread.

But pictures of bead blasted and rusty panels get a bit dull, unless you are paying for their rectification.

Here goes

Before the restoration started:

On the face of it, a nice car, sadly b*ggered about with by the addition of an SBC engine and TH350 gearbox with a seriously compromised manifold/exhaust arrangement.

My plan is to restore it to spec with the minor exception of using the Supercharged AJ16 engine and GM4L-80E gearbox from a 1995 XJR. There will be an aftermarket ECU.

The brief extends further in that anything non-spec must be reversible, so we will be using a standard monocoque and engine frame and the original axles from the car. I will, however, be uprating the brakes.

Note the lovely Borrani wheels which save IIRC 7 lbs a corner over the standard Dunlop wires. In due course, I will be getting proper (period) tyres to replace the horrors on there at the moment but they can serve to roll the chassis in and out of paint.







Remember the saying about putting lipstick on a pig? The three pictures (pre blasting) above confirm that it is possible!

Post-blasting, it is perfectly apparent that the car has had someone right up its chuff at some stage in the past!

What the stripping shows is that the car is lugging about six hundredweight of Bondo around as a substitute for a proper metalwork fix. What is annoying is that I ran a magnet over every inch of bodywork. But I suppose it means that there is metal under there. I'm getting new panels to replace all this fudging.











The red stuff inside the car is the original primer.

Please note butchered gearbox cover, which if not repaired to original specification will automatically get the car a Q plate. The challenge is going to be fitting a GM4L80E gearbox in that space...





The good news is that we have measured and the rear impact has not skewed the car and it retains its geometry. Better still the roof and bonnet are in good shape. Especially good news about the bonnet which is a nightmare to repair and refit.

I'll pop up some pictures later of the metal repairs if people are interested...

Peter
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fentum View Post
I'll pop up some pictures later of the metal repairs if people are interested...

Peter
I think it's a good bet they'll be interested
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fentum View Post

I'll pop up some pictures later of the metal repairs if people are interested...

Peter
That's just unbelievable. How whoever did the bondo repair made it look so good, I've no idea.

Definitely interested in more pics. Definitely.

A Q plate on an original etype would be sacrilege!!! Thanks for sharing those though.

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Old 10-10-2017, 08:14 PM   #9
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Superb motor - well it will be again...

Great photos to see the process and I can't believe it looks so good prior to strip - looking forward to seeing how it goes
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:26 PM   #10
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This is going to be a great thread. Always wanted to detail one of these iconic cars, your a very lucky man indeed
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