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Old 08-03-2018, 12:03 PM   #11
Peteo48
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Thanks for all the input so far. It did occur to me that it would have benefitted from a wash first. I sometimes use AG Aqua Wax and the absorbency is never a problem with the small microfibers that come with that kit but that maybe the aqua wax helping.
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:30 PM   #12
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If the car has good protection on already, also look at ‘touchless drying’ using an open ended hose to sheet the water from your car, leaving just minor areas to finish drying.
This is new to me too and was going to try it next time I do mine. Tbh, I can’t believe I’ve never picked up on it before as drying the car is always the most labourious part of my wash regime.
But otherwise as said, dampen and wring out first. I usually do my glass first as seems to dry the glass well & get the cloth to a nice level of wetness (for want if a better expression) and then dries the rest of the car well.
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:55 PM   #13
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Interesting about the touchless drying with the open hose. The car is well protected and beads really well. Must try it.
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:50 PM   #14
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Probably best not to drag the towel if you can help it. Pat drying is better but you could try the drag and roll technique were as you pull the towel along the paint you roll the towel back on itself. There is a Youtube video by AMMO NYC but I can't find it again.
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:11 PM   #15
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Have you washed the towel yet? It can help to make new towels more effective, use a non bio liquid without any softener in it, fabric softener kills the absorbency of microfibre stone dead. Wash drying towels separate from any others you use and allow to air dry, a short blast in a tumble dryer won’t hurt but avoid too much heat which can distort or melt the fibres. You can get specialist mf cleaners but normal detergent is just as good, I use Boots sensitive skin liquid and it keeps my towels like new.

The effectiveness of a drying towel can also be affected by the surface you are using it on, for example a well polished, decontaminated and protected surface will throw water off easily, whereas a bare rough paint will hang on to it. Try the towel slightly damp, wet it and then wring the hell out of it, and then wring it regularly during use. A QD can help but again, this is influenced by the protection that is already on the paint.
You should never "wring the hell out" of any type of mf cloth be it a drying cloth or any other as this can cause the fibre to break down and be rendered useless. the mf towel should be gently squeezed to get rid of any water etc. Many users of mf towels therefore give a wrong opinion on how good a towel is when in fact its down to user error. there have been posts on dw in the past highlighting this fact.
hope this is of some help
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pxr5 View Post
Probably best not to drag the towel if you can help it. Pat drying is better but you could try the drag and roll technique were as you pull the towel along the paint you roll the towel back on itself. There is a Youtube video by AMMO NYC but I can't find it again.
This is the video. About 5 mins in.

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Old 08-03-2018, 09:55 PM   #17
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I've had a couple of those Kent drying towels in the past and while they'll never be as effective as some of the other towels already mentioned, in my experience they can dry fairly well.

They will get better after a few washes I find, as the fibres will loosen up through a little use. I personal approach with these towels was to use them dry, lay them on the panel and pat them gently to help them absorb the water. I didn't feel confident enough in the quality of the towel to go dragging it across my paint (I may also have missed a spot after all).

These towels don't hold a huge amount so while you could moisten them first, you may then find that you need two of them to get round the whole car without needing to wring a single towel out every half-panel.
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Old 09-03-2018, 03:01 PM   #18
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With regard to Ollie's reply above, it is fair to say that they are not that expensive. I'll give it another go and if it still isn't working for me I might consider an upgrade. I can always use the Kent one for something else.
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Old 09-03-2018, 04:00 PM   #19
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You should never "wring the hell out" of any type of mf cloth be it a drying cloth or any other as this can cause the fibre to break down and be rendered useless. the mf towel should be gently squeezed to get rid of any water etc. Many users of mf towels therefore give a wrong opinion on how good a towel is when in fact its down to user error. there have been posts on dw in the past highlighting this fact.
hope this is of some help
regards
todds
With general 3/400gsm mf towels yes, a fold and gentle squeeze and you’re back in business, but try doing that with a 1200gsm 60x 90 drying towel and you’ll get nowhere.

I usually use 2 or 3 towels, starting with a waffle weave towel that shifts the bulk of the water and can be wrung out easily, before moving on to plusher, heavier towels that are more absorbent so don’t need wring out at all. I have a couple of in2detailing Drinkers that can easily dry a whole car each without being wrung out once, but I save them for final drying so that I don’t have to wash them after every use.
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