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Old 29-10-2017, 03:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by danwel View Post
I had a go with Glare on my previous car and whilst i admit i do like it is quite time consuming.

I did something similar in that i gave it a quick whizz round with a normal polish to take the edge of a lot of the swirls and marks which helped a lot.

The finish of the glare and topped off with ADS Kostos was really really nice
I think I went a bit OTT this time to be honest...I suspect I could have gotten very similar results with less coats, maybe skipped the Knockout altogether. I'll experiment when I do the roof to see how little you need to cover / fill what severity of defects. It helps there's nothing more severe than some old drying marks on that panel...

Edit: I also plan to do one corner the normal way ie with abrasive polishes, to see if there's any difference in appearance, and also as a control, so I can get an idea if any swirls appearing are new ones or existing ones where the filling effect is somehow wearing out.

Last edited by steelghost; 29-10-2017 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 29-10-2017, 03:33 PM   #22
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Another bonus with Glare, especially if you have soft paint, is how easy it buffs off. You can apply Pro to the whole car by DA and then buff off the whole car.
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Old 29-10-2017, 03:41 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Beemerjohn View Post
Thanks Steelghost

I've not come across this product before and was wondering if this was the miracle I was looking for, I was thinking I could get away with buying a DA.

I tried cleanser polish by hand on a couple of panels and it's too much hard work for me .

It looks like a DA is staying on the Christmas list then.

John


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Heheh I'm afraid there's no shortcut to swirl free paint, other than paying someone else! I think though that for light wash marring, hand correcting with Glare would not be out of the question.
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Old 29-10-2017, 03:55 PM   #24
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It is very time consuming no denying, but I find that the results after 2 coats of Pro to finish it is stunning.
I have skipped the spider step before, but I find selective use of knockout on bad areas works well followed by the whole car given Micro then Pro.

It is a product which the results have to be seen to see it's true potential.
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Old 29-10-2017, 04:07 PM   #25
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Hmm

I'm down in Italy spending a few days between jobs working on my recently repainted black Alfa Spider, now that it should have gassed off fully.

Should I go down the Glare route, I wonder, after I have dealt with the paint shop's buffer trails etc?

Peter
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Old 29-10-2017, 04:11 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Fentum View Post
Hmm

I'm down in Italy spending a few days between jobs working on my recently repainted black Alfa Spider, now that it should have gassed off fully.

Should I go down the Glare route, I wonder, after I have dealt with the paint shop's buffer trails etc?

Peter
From what I've seen, you wouldn't need separate polishing steps to deal with buffer trails, you could start with Spider, then Micro, two coats of Pro, boom. Might need Knockout for any sanding marks. It's RDS where I think Glare struggles.
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Old 29-10-2017, 04:15 PM   #27
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A little clarification, you don't always have to use every product but they're there if you need them. Most light issues are sorted with just micro finish and professional. I personally love the stuff as you can't really go wrong and the more you play with it the more you can do with it. Steelghost has done an extremely good trial of what is able to be achieved with Glare, it's an outstanding product and frankly deserve more credit but hayho! It's going to be gone soon then those with thin or old paint will wonder what they need to make the paint good again!
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Old 29-10-2017, 04:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelghost View Post
From what I've seen, you wouldn't need separate polishing steps to deal with buffer trails, you could start with Spider, then Micro, two coats of Pro, boom. Might need Knockout for any sanding marks. It's RDS where I think Glare struggles.
Knockout on the right pad does do wonders
I did 2 passes with knockout on a MF pad and it sorted this scratch.
I do agree the deeper the scratch the more difficult it is, but stepping up the pad choice does help a fair amount to.

I always thought spider was a dreadful product until I changed my pad choices.
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Old 29-10-2017, 04:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fentum View Post
Hmm

I'm down in Italy spending a few days between jobs working on my recently repainted black Alfa Spider, now that it should have gassed off fully.

Should I go down the Glare route, I wonder, after I have dealt with the paint shop's buffer trails etc?

Peter
I'm told by Glare that you don't need to wait for paint to gas off with glare as it breaths with the paint! Micro and professional should sort out ant buffer trails and leave an extremely smooth glossy finish.
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Old 29-10-2017, 04:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman88 View Post
Knockout on the right pad does do wonders
I did 2 passes with knockout on a MF pad and it sorted this scratch.
I do agree the deeper the scratch the more difficult it is, but stepping up the pad choice does help a fair amount to.

I always thought spider was a dreadful product until I changed my pad choices.
What pad was that Darren? I do have an orange hex in the box I could give it a try with.
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