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Old 05-08-2017, 11:12 PM   #31
Mugwump
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Originally Posted by hoggers View Post
Just picked up a this 2005 MG ZR 105 Trophy 1.4 SE... with only 18,000miles!
That's a good buy with only 18k on the clock. Such a shame the corners are a bit battered and it was in such a state. Even so, it's a good price for such a low mileage car. You already appear to be making a big difference to it - it will indeed be a cracker when you have it sorted

Quote:
It was serviced last year at 17,000 miles so should be good for some time to come.
Should be serviced every 12 months ideally - good to see that the cam belt has been done fairly recently. It has a recommended change interval of 90000 miles or 6 years, whichever is sooner. The K series is an 'interference' engine, so if the cam belt snaps, you will have bent valves at the very least.

Quote:
Battery Drain - from a google search seems to be a common problem but no straigt forward answer! The previous owner had a 'kill switch' fitted this time last year but still hasn't solved the problem as it still seems to struggle to start.

What a complete and utter f-ing bodge. I could have made a tidier job with a blunt penknife! And almost certainly totally unnecessary as I would doubt very much it is a battery drain (and if it was, the offending electrical unit should be reasonably easily found by a process of elimination); Faults in the Alternator system have been found to cause a drain occasionally, but as you have now discovered, a dying battery is much more likely. Never a good idea to leave a battery in its death throws on these later versions - they have a Pektron Security/Systems Control Unit (SCU) which doesn't like prolonged periods at low voltages - can cause a number of problematic issues.

Quote:
Passenger Windscreen Wiper - just stopped working - drivers is fine.
Might be the linkage to the n/s wiper has come adrift, but more likely the nut holding the wiper arm to the splined shaft has come loose.

Quote:
Horn doesn't work - interesting as the same garage also did work re-wiring this at time of doing the fog light!
Another totally unnecessary bodge no doubt. I would nearly guarantee that it is one of the double relays in the Pektron SCU which has failed. It is a relatively common issue, and needs a new relay soldering in. The other half of the same relay controls the rear fog lamps.

Have a read of this thread on mg-rover.org; http://forums.mg-rover.org/how-do-i-...cu-bcu-384938/. It explains a lot about the Pektron SCU, its common problems and what to do about them. The OP of that thread has an encyclopaedic knowledge of them, and can supply better quality relays or replace them for you, or carry out repair or programming.

Quote:
Car does not lock - quite an important one this but wonder if this has anything to do with the battery drain.
If the central locking doesn't work. it is quite probably another of the relays in the SCU. There is also the possibility of water ingress to the SCU (it sometimes gets down the loom from the engine bay, especially if someone has pressure washed the bay out; because the SCU is mounted with the connector facing upwards, the wet can leak into it and the first thing it gets onto is the radio reciever circuit for the remote fob signal, resulting in there being no response to the fob buttons. However, if this were the case, it wouldn't disarm the immobiliser either.

If by saying the manual locking doesn't work, you mean the barrel in the drivers door doesn't turn, it will be most likely seized from lack of use (ie. alwways locked/unlocked with the remote). It will need soaking with penetrating fluid and repeated gentle persuasion to get it going again. It may even need the barrel removing from the door and taking apart and cleaning if it is encrausted with limescale - take very great care to keep the sliders in order and the right way round if you do this!!!! (I didn't, and it took some hours of trial and error befor I got it mine back together so that it fitted the key correctly ).

Quote:
Coolant light is on - but coolant looks to be topped up
Most likely the float for the expansion tank low coolant sensor is stuck. Might need to remove the tank and give it a good clean out to free the float.

There should be a bracket for the OBD socket to fit into just behind the end of the centre console moulding.

Check the tailgate loom very carefully - damaged wiring within the rubber boot between body and tailgate is very commonplace, and resultant short circuits here can lead to all sorts of electric malfunctions, and in some instances can result in damaged circuits within the Pektron SCU. Damaged wires in the tailgate loom are sometimes well hidden, and need a very careful and thorough inspection to find them. Unless the tailgate has hardly ever been opened, I would be very surprised if there isn't at least some minor chafing to the insulation.

Lastly, you might find this site of interest too - http://www.mg-rover.info/index.htm?
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugwump View Post
That's a good buy with only 18k on the clock. Such a shame the corners are a bit battered and it was in such a state. Even so, it's a good price for such a low mileage car. You already appear to be making a big difference to it - it will indeed be a cracker when you have it sorted





Should be serviced every 12 months ideally - good to see that the cam belt has been done fairly recently. It has a recommended change interval of 90000 miles or 6 years, whichever is sooner. The K series is an 'interference' engine, so if the cam belt snaps, you will have bent valves at the very least.





What a complete and utter f-ing bodge. I could have made a tidier job with a blunt penknife! And almost certainly totally unnecessary as I would doubt very much it is a battery drain (and if it was, the offending electrical unit should be reasonably easily found by a process of elimination); Faults in the Alternator system have been found to cause a drain occasionally, but as you have now discovered, a dying battery is much more likely. Never a good idea to leave a battery in its death throws on these later versions - they have a Pektron Security/Systems Control Unit (SCU) which doesn't like prolonged periods at low voltages - can cause a number of problematic issues.





Might be the linkage to the n/s wiper has come adrift, but more likely the nut holding the wiper arm to the splined shaft has come loose.





Another totally unnecessary bodge no doubt. I would nearly guarantee that it is one of the double relays in the Pektron SCU which has failed. It is a relatively common issue, and needs a new relay soldering in. The other half of the same relay controls the rear fog lamps.



Have a read of this thread on mg-rover.org; http://forums.mg-rover.org/how-do-i-...cu-bcu-384938/. It explains a lot about the Pektron SCU, its common problems and what to do about them. The OP of that thread has an encyclopaedic knowledge of them, and can supply better quality relays or replace them for you, or carry out repair or programming.





If the central locking doesn't work. it is quite probably another of the relays in the SCU. There is also the possibility of water ingress to the SCU (it sometimes gets down the loom from the engine bay, especially if someone has pressure washed the bay out; because the SCU is mounted with the connector facing upwards, the wet can leak into it and the first thing it gets onto is the radio reciever circuit for the remote fob signal, resulting in there being no response to the fob buttons. However, if this were the case, it wouldn't disarm the immobiliser either.



If by saying the manual locking doesn't work, you mean the barrel in the drivers door doesn't turn, it will be most likely seized from lack of use (ie. alwways locked/unlocked with the remote). It will need soaking with penetrating fluid and repeated gentle persuasion to get it going again. It may even need the barrel removing from the door and taking apart and cleaning if it is encrausted with limescale - take very great care to keep the sliders in order and the right way round if you do this!!!! (I didn't, and it took some hours of trial and error befor I got it mine back together so that it fitted the key correctly ).





Most likely the float for the expansion tank low coolant sensor is stuck. Might need to remove the tank and give it a good clean out to free the float.



There should be a bracket for the OBD socket to fit into just behind the end of the centre console moulding.



Check the tailgate loom very carefully - damaged wiring within the rubber boot between body and tailgate is very commonplace, and resultant short circuits here can lead to all sorts of electric malfunctions, and in some instances can result in damaged circuits within the Pektron SCU. Damaged wires in the tailgate loom are sometimes well hidden, and need a very careful and thorough inspection to find them. Unless the tailgate has hardly ever been opened, I would be very surprised if there isn't at least some minor chafing to the insulation.



Lastly, you might find this site of interest too - http://www.mg-rover.info/index.htm?


Thank you so much for this info, hugely appreciated


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Old 06-08-2017, 11:01 AM   #33
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That's a good buy with only 18k on the clock........
One of the best posts I've seen in a long time. Brilliant help for the op.

Cheers,

Cooks


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Old 06-08-2017, 11:31 AM   #34
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There doesn't seem to be next or submit button


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Old 06-08-2017, 02:05 PM   #35
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There doesn't seem to be next or submit button


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You should have a 'go' button on your touch screen keyboard.

Edit - like this

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Last edited by Cookies; 06-08-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 07-08-2017, 12:54 AM   #36
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There doesn't seem to be next or submit button
No, there isn't a visible button, but if you hit go/enter after entering the captcha it will work
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Old 07-08-2017, 08:48 PM   #37
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At least I now know my cars birthday!


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Old 09-08-2017, 10:00 AM   #38
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Noticed the service book was missing the dealer stamp from the last service, so popped in to see if they'd back date it - despite not dealing in MGs anymore they found an old stamp



He also had the record of all the times it had been in - turns out a lot of times in the last 3 years for a flat battery!


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Old 12-08-2017, 02:33 PM   #39
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Replaced the horrendous kill switch








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Old 12-08-2017, 02:39 PM   #40
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Top work!

That is serious dedication to the cause - getting the service book stamped up like that. This really is my sort of project thread - lots of little details being put back just how Rover (sorry, MG!) intended it.

I like to think that granny just had the kill switch installed because she wanted to feel like she was a touring car driver
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