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Old 09-02-2018, 01:23 PM   #11
steelghost
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Originally Posted by Chris.91 View Post
Cheers pal, sounds like good stuff. I'm going to need sponsoring by BH at this rate...

I've heard it's better to use a pump sprayer to apply the BH foam but I want to try out my new toys first so I'll be using the lance . In the guide it says to turn the dial down to the '-' (full foam output) so would that be 'max'?
Turning the dial to "-" makes the mix as strong as possible - I think of it as the dilution control ie all the way to "-" means you are at the minimum dilution possible.

To be honest you don't have to use the lance at full "-", but the measurement you take to get the correct quantity of product in the lance is only valid at that dilution setting, so it makes sense to use one that you can easily get back to accurately.
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Old 09-02-2018, 01:29 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by steelghost View Post
Turning the dial to "-" makes the mix as strong as possible - I think of it as the dilution control ie all the way to "-" means you are at the minimum dilution possible.

To be honest you don't have to use the lance at full "-", but the measurement you take to get the correct quantity of product in the lance is only valid at that dilution setting, so it makes sense to use one that you can easily get back to accurately.
Makes sense, cheers.

Hoping for some decent weather this weekend but the forecast isn't looking great
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Old 09-02-2018, 09:58 PM   #13
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Yes PH black hole is great at hiding swirls on darker coloured cars even works well on silver or white cars you could also get poor boys putty wax to put on top both products work well together
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:07 AM   #14
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When it comes to decontamination there is no one stop shop, so itís not really a choice of chemical v clay. Clay will generally remove the most contamination but using fallout and tar remover beforehand will target those specific nasties and give the clay and easier time of it. Clay will remove tar for example, but it then contaminates the clay and can be spread back onto the surface, just like it will pick up iron particles that could then potentially scratch the clear as the clay is worked elsewhere. You have also chosen a soft clay, which although easier to work (especially at current ambient temps brrr!) does not dig out the most deeply embedded stuff, harder clay removes more but in turn is more aggressive on the surface.

So for the most thorough job, use a combination of chemicals and clay, rinse the car to remove major stuff, tfr to remove salt and road grime then rinse, snowfoam to remove more dirt then rinse, fallout remover then rinse, tar remover on visible deposits then rinse, snowfoam and rinse again before finally going to clay. After claying you should wash the car with a decent shampoo and a good wash mitt/pad and then rinse and dry as normal before moving on to polish/glaze and finally protecting with a wax. It is also worth bearing in mind that if the car is going to be machined in a few months time that it will have to go through all of this again beforehand, this decon process will do a great job of removing what is already there and make it easier to remove in the future, but it want stop it from coming back.
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:39 AM   #15
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When it comes to decontamination there is no one stop shop, so itís not really a choice of chemical v clay. Clay will generally remove the most contamination but using fallout and tar remover beforehand will target those specific nasties and give the clay and easier time of it. Clay will remove tar for example, but it then contaminates the clay and can be spread back onto the surface, just like it will pick up iron particles that could then potentially scratch the clear as the clay is worked elsewhere. You have also chosen a soft clay, which although easier to work (especially at current ambient temps brrr!) does not dig out the most deeply embedded stuff, harder clay removes more but in turn is more aggressive on the surface.

So for the most thorough job, use a combination of chemicals and clay, rinse the car to remove major stuff, tfr to remove salt and road grime then rinse, snowfoam to remove more dirt then rinse, fallout remover then rinse, tar remover on visible deposits then rinse, snowfoam and rinse again before finally going to clay. After claying you should wash the car with a decent shampoo and a good wash mitt/pad and then rinse and dry as normal before moving on to polish/glaze and finally protecting with a wax. It is also worth bearing in mind that if the car is going to be machined in a few months time that it will have to go through all of this again beforehand, this decon process will do a great job of removing what is already there and make it easier to remove in the future, but it want stop it from coming back.
Quality post pal I know itís going to need another decon when it goes to a pro but Iím a bit paranoid about the paint being damaged from UV so I want to get some protection on ASAP for peace of mind, so need to decon it.

Do you not think I should decon (TFR, snow foam, de-tar, de-iron) then wash with mitts/two buckets, then clay? As the mitts will get rid of any more dirt after de-tar and de-ironing. I know I have to be careful with the clay too i.e. keep folding it and donít use it if itís too dirty, etc.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:20 PM   #16
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Quality post pal I know itís going to need another decon when it goes to a pro but Iím a bit paranoid about the paint being damaged from UV so I want to get some protection on ASAP for peace of mind, so need to decon it.

Do you not think I should decon (TFR, snow foam, de-tar, de-iron) then wash with mitts/two buckets, then clay? As the mitts will get rid of any more dirt after de-tar and de-ironing. I know I have to be careful with the clay too i.e. keep folding it and donít use it if itís too dirty, etc.
Did mine last week under pretty similar circumstances, I will machine it myself but need to look for 2-3 days when I have the time and weather on my side, so probably a month or two yet. Mine has been washed off weekly since I got it mid-Jan, good 2bm wash initially but after that just tfr and foam each week, so actual dirt wasnít such an issue for me. So I went straight to clay after rinsing off the chemical stages and then foamed it. While the foam was on the car I went over it very gently with my super fluffy Adams wash pad just to remove the dirty clay lube, rinsing the pad under a running hose as I went. As well as ingrained dirt and contaminates the clay will also remove any residual polish or fillers left on the car, so when you are done it may well look a lot more swirled or scratched than when you started.

Adding in a full wash at any stage of the process certainly wonít do any harm, so use your judgment at the time. Barring machine polishing, the claying stage is the most aggressive contact your paint will get, so anything you can do or the cleaner you can get it to reduce the amount of aggression needed is a bonus.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:41 PM   #17
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Did mine last week under pretty similar circumstances, I will machine it myself but need to look for 2-3 days when I have the time and weather on my side, so probably a month or two yet. Mine has been washed off weekly since I got it mid-Jan, good 2bm wash initially but after that just tfr and foam each week, so actual dirt wasnít such an issue for me. So I went straight to clay after rinsing off the chemical stages and then foamed it. While the foam was on the car I went over it very gently with my super fluffy Adams wash pad just to remove the dirty clay lube, rinsing the pad under a running hose as I went. As well as ingrained dirt and contaminates the clay will also remove any residual polish or fillers left on the car, so when you are done it may well look a lot more swirled or scratched than when you started.

Adding in a full wash at any stage of the process certainly wonít do any harm, so use your judgment at the time. Barring machine polishing, the claying stage is the most aggressive contact your paint will get, so anything you can do or the cleaner you can get it to reduce the amount of aggression needed is a bonus.
Yeah, definitely depends on the condition of the car

Which TFR are you using if you don't mind, and are you using a pump sprayer to apply it?
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:59 PM   #18
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Yeah, definitely depends on the condition of the car

Which TFR are you using if you don't mind, and are you using a pump sprayer to apply it?
Power Maxed TFR 1:10 through a pump sprayer, leave it on for 5-10 minutes but donít let it dry out. Koch Chemie Green Stuff is also well respected but a bit more £££
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:36 PM   #19
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Power Maxed TFR 1:10 through a pump sprayer, leave it on for 5-10 minutes but donít let it dry out. Koch Chemie Green Stuff is also well respected but a bit more £££
Cheers mate, will check them out.
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