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Projects and Restorations Building a car from scratch, restoring your pride and joy, building a track car, or starting a long term project? This is your place to document it.

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Old 07-03-2018, 01:49 AM   #31
lincolndanny
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Thank you for taking the time to update us. Always a pleasure to read.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:45 AM   #32
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Great updates!

Normally I would be against part worn tyres but I think you’ve done the best thing possible, it’s now a matching set and as you say - it’s practically new. Besides, it’s a used car which technically came with 4 part worn tyres on it anyway!

The bushes you changed didn’t look like too much of a nightmare job. At least I won’t fear doing that in the future

Back to the M135i comment - totally agree, it felt like too much power in too small of a car. Especially having an open diff. I really came to resent that car!

Also - can I ask what the floor mats cost from the dealer? I wouldn’t mind a drivers side mat if they do them individually.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:30 AM   #33
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Sub'd to this great thread - excellent detail, pics and info James, many thanks, keep it up
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:12 PM   #34
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Love these "proper" car restoration and OEM+ threads on here, definitely my favourite section on the DW site!

Great work, with good pics and an informative write up
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:49 PM   #35
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Great work.

I agree, not ideal with the tyre but in your predicament I would have chosen the same route.

Loving this thread as well, the better half has a 2005 MCS Convertible and we are about to embark on a suspension refresh so great to see.

Keep it up.

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Old 16-03-2018, 09:36 PM   #36
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I had originally cleared the whole weekend to fit the new suspension, but for some reason I lost time on Saturday meaning I only had about 1 hour to do things. Rather than start the suspension work I thought I'd sort a few little niggles round the car, starting with these rusty numberplate screws:



Originally a Philips head, it had all but dissolved with rust so I needed to cut a slot in them to stand a chance of getting them out. So, I tried a multi-purpose tool:



But it didn't really work, probably as the blade I was using wasn't designed for (rusty) steel



So out came the Dremel, which is one of those tools I don't use much but when I do, it's invaluable.



Much better progress:



Perhaps inevitably both screws sheared off at the merest hint of some torque from the screw driver. Frustrating.



This left me looking at two of these, which despite my best efforts I couldn't pull out without the risk of damaging the panel.



I also tried drilling out the screw but the drill kept wandering so I abandoned that approach meaning there was only one thing for it, which was to attack it from behind:



Once off this gave me a chance to look at the rust on the rear hatch from within. It doesn't look too bad, but it won't last forever, and it's a shame because it's the only rust on the car currently.



Here's the back of the screw mounting:



In the end I tried a number of approaches and managed to remove enough material to extract everything, leaving me with this:



And of course a pile of mangled plastic parts:



So a 5 minute job to remove two screws and refit new ones ended up taking 1 hour and has left me without the ability to fit a numberplate. In hindsight this was a warning of more dire things to come, but more on that next.

Last edited by James_G; 24-05-2018 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 16-03-2018, 10:26 PM   #37
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Mini Cooper S Checkmate (2006)

Hi James, just a quick reply to say i'm following your thread with interest! i'm a member of Minitorque and if you need any advice on anything Gen 1 related then please feel free to give me a shout and i'll help you out if I can, if not someone on there will know the answer. Two points I would note is ditch the runflats asap and upgrade the shocking suspension bushes to polybushes as soon as you can, lower front wishbone rear bushes are paramount to get changed. If you need any parts our friend owns Millsy's Autos in Nuneaton, he has hundreds of parts available as he breaks them. As for suppliers, Oli at Orranje Performance and Tom at 1320 Mini are the go to guys, some people recommend Lohen but a bad experience with them won't see me using them ever again but each to their own choices. I'm saving for a Checkmate and you got yours for a bargain price!

Last edited by Lolly; 16-03-2018 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 17-03-2018, 09:03 PM   #38
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Just a suggestion but if it were me I would buy a new plate, seal the holes with silicon and then attach the new plate with sticky pads.
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Old 17-03-2018, 09:38 PM   #39
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Small rubber grommets might work on the holes? Then as above double tape on the plate.

Following with interest!
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Old 17-03-2018, 10:18 PM   #40
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Wow, great read! What is crazy, is that everything you have listed is or has been wrong with my JCW! Fuel seal cap failed MOT and looked like yours, had to replace the top mount as it had gone through the rubber, rust on the tailgate etc.

Keeping up with this now and also Jbenekeorrs as! I really should start a thread as well.

Have you swapped out the top mounts yet? Passenger side for me was a doddle, drivers side, I sheared the hub bolt spent 2 hours drilling it out!

Looking forward to the updates.
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