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Projects and Restorations Building a car from scratch, restoring your pride and joy, building a track car, or starting a long term project? This is your place to document it.

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Old 23-06-2018, 11:04 AM   #21
AS_BO
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Tremendous progress so far fella, glad you got a progress thread up for it!

Car is looking amazing, big visual improvements with the deep clean of the interior and decon of the exterior! Humbled by the inspiration for the deep clean of the interior, it has come up stunning pal.

Keep the updates coming, subbed!
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Old 27-06-2018, 01:26 AM   #22
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@AS_BO, thanks for your kind comments. What did you do about the fault codes when removing the seats? I ended up having to connect battery to lock it and think that is what set them off but cleared them easily with the laptop/diagnostics I have.

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Originally Posted by snrbrtsn View Post
Great write up...
Whilst in no way connected or affiliated with James Glen, other than buying my last three of four cars I can attest to the owners Integity, one hell of a garage....
Your cars looking great!

Have you followed their Facebook page? Some absolutely lush and old school metal passing through recently!
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Old 30-06-2018, 10:59 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by beambeam View Post
@AS_BO, thanks for your kind comments. What did you do about the fault codes when removing the seats? I ended up having to connect battery to lock it and think that is what set them off but cleared them easily with the laptop/diagnostics I have.




Have you followed their Facebook page? Some absolutely lush and old school metal passing through recently!


Beams I had the battery on charge Iím sure - never had any fault codes or dash lights come up when I put the interior back in.

Iíve now got to tackle the middle rear seatbelt - after having the seats down itís decided to engage the pre tensioner and now itís jammed 🤦🏼*♂️ hope I can rescue it because otherwise itís a lot of money, the belt is secured into the rear back rest!!
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Old 12-07-2018, 01:36 AM   #24
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Posted this image previously in the detailing chat section but have been able to keep tabs on the car now that I have a drive and I was able to coat it with AMdetails wax - lovely to apply and very easy to buff off. The sunlight in the evenings has been quite generous but trust me a multitude of paintwork sins are hidden here...



Small update:

After not hearing from BMW regarding the anti-corrosion warranty I got back in touch and it transpires some sort of handling error occurred. I popped in again and the warranty manager expected to fob me off with tales of paintwork repairs and his paint depth gauge but said he could find very little issues apart from perhaps smart repairs in two small areas. He suspects the lack of BMW service history over the last five years will give higher ups grounds to deny the claim though.

He also took into account the rusted bootlid (which I have a painted replacement for) and reported no findings of paint repair which was the complete opposite of what another BMW staff member told me last year at a different dealership...

We shall wait and see. The guy was pleasant to deal with nonetheless but I already sense the buck has been passed to superiors and the comment about lack of service history may well be valid. I have only owned it for two years but last BMW stamp is five years ago.

Additional update:

The heater issue I rectified may be deeper rooted than I understood. Just last week a BMW recall notice posted through my door and relates to the heater and associated wiring. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall handy link should you wish to check for outstanding notices on your car but more information about this particular recall can be read here: https://www.bmw.co.uk/landingpages/bmw-vehicle-recalls

Quote:
Which vehicles are affected:

The blower regulator connection recall affects the certain previous generation models of the BMW 3 Series, produced from October 2004 to May 2011.

BMW 3 Series Saloon (E90) Produced from 15/10/2004 to 08/07/2011
BMW 3 Series Touring (E91) Produced from 22/04/2005 to 08/07/2011
BMW 3 Series Coupť (E92) Produced from 20/04/2006 to 27/05/2011
BMW 3 Series Convertible (E93) Produced from 28/11/2006 to 27/05/2011


Final update:

I am waiting on some parts arriving from BMW. I've had long running (a year now!) oil consumption and fuel economy issues alongside a list of fault codes. I've changed MAF sensors, serviced the car, replaced O2 sensors and misfiring coils and a crankcase breather to some considerable expense... I have done some extensive googling and forum digging over the last month since I finished my dissertation and found the time - I now believe that the issue is linked to failed DISA valves on the N52 engine that resides in my BMW. What lead me to this was a new/unusual fault code displayed recently (2AAC - I check my codes regularly).

Some useful links should anyone ever happen across the same issue or fancies a bit of reading:

Linked above, the (2AAC code that brought me to this point:

What is a DISA Valve? A Rundown of Symptoms and Replacement

Nice write-up/How to from a Z4 forum...


Looking at the youtube clip and from various readings it is my understanding that upon ignition and during idle up to around 4000rpm the flap should close until more air is required which is when the flap opens to deliver more air.

There are two of them on my engine, one either side of my intake manifold. The first, larger one is easy to get to and resides just after the MAF and air intake. The second smaller one resides inside/under the manifold and is more difficult to reach but achievable.

The larger one I have found upon extraction does not operate correctly. On ignition it tries to close slowly but sticks halfway. I believe the motor inside has failed.



The smaller one I had bought a second hand replacement for. I believe it works aside from the issue with the rubber membrane that you can see (above) has deteriorated, highlighted by the pen. When the flap closes I fail to see how a proper seal can be maintained? The part I extracted was in much worse shape and the flap can actually be wiggled about which is apparently quite dangerous as the spindle can fail leading to broken components being sucked into the engine itself...

I contacted the seller and they were happy to find me a better replacement or refund me. I've chosen the refund and have ordered two brand new BMW replacements at a cost of £450. Sickened. That is with a forum discount too but I have this slight niggle that my usual garage and latterly, especially, the BMW specialist I used should have picked up on this sooner.

The parts are yet to arrive but the car is running terribly at the moment with the latest tinkering carried out by myself. I cleaned a bunch of connections and sensors whilst I was poking around the engine and left the replacement valve in for now rather than use the close to failing original but the sooner I can work on it again, the better. I am away to a wedding in Ireland this weekend though so will probably leave it until after then. I will update in due course.

That's all for now, hopefully good news to report next time I post. Drive is completed for those that didn't follow the thread I made, it's making life a lot easier for me. Cleaned my brother's GSX-R and quick detailed the BMW on it a few days ago! It is also allowing me to work on the car instead of sending it to a garage now so after a few jobs will hopefully pay for itself!



Cheers for reading.
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:37 AM   #25
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Great thread. Keep up the good work.
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Old 13-07-2018, 04:38 PM   #26
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The wiring recall is a big problem, my friend has a 335D and the air con display turned off and nothing worked. I popped the cover off under the glove box and all the insulation to the wires had burnt off and the wires were sparking against each other! The plug was badly damaged also, it seems to be water getting into the plug and shorting it. We repaired it best we could (at that time the recall was only in America) and it died again so this time the recall had been announced so i cut the plug off and it's gone into BMW for the recall. I would highly advise checking the wiring yourself.
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Old 25-07-2018, 03:15 AM   #27
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Thanks @Rojer, I'll be making a phonecall to BMW tomorrow morning to get it booked in and sorted as soon as possible. Drove Edinburgh - Aberdeen - Edinburgh last week and the blower has gone back to failing after long periods of driving so it is definitely something that needs addressed. Glad I didn't spend too much on that particular repair.. Thanks again for your input, it is easy to disregard notices like an unwanted bill but your personal experience sends a strong message - I would hate for someone else like my GF to be driving when something goes wrong because of this.

Latest update:

So in my last post I stated:

Quote:
Originally Posted by beambeam View Post
The parts are yet to arrive but the car is running terribly at the moment with the latest tinkering carried out by myself. I cleaned a bunch of connections and sensors whilst I was poking around the engine and left the replacement valve in for now rather than use the close to failing original but the sooner I can work on it again, the better. I am away to a wedding in Ireland this weekend though so will probably leave it until after then. I will update in due course.
What a cracking wedding that was and well chuffed with the hire car I ended up with! Booked a small Ford Ka or similar for four days at £55 and ended up with a Nissan X-Trail for an additional £21. After 300 or so miles of driving and refuelling I still ended up with change out of a hundred quid, very surprising! Anyway...

In an effort to sort the idling issue that had presented itself (2D06 code thrown up - MAF sensor) I decided to follow the information on this suggested fix and replace the connector housing to the MAF sensor (replaced last October - surely can't be this that has failed?)



It was only £15 for the parts so it was a task that made sense to carry out/rule out whilst I tackle this problem. It took no time at all and I seemed to feel like a vague difference was achieved but the rough idle remained. Whilst I was tinkering about the engine I removed and cleaned the VANOS solenoids also. No codes thrown up regarding these but it made sense to inspect them at least and they look grand for now:



Despite this intervention the car was still idling rough as hell. My forum sleuthing lead me to believe it was a vacuum leak somewhere. The brand new DISA valves arrived and when fitted the idling and stalling at traffic lights issues remained sadly. I was right to fit new parts in the end as even the item that I returned was further damaged in it's short term fitment to the car.

I couldn't figure the rough idling yet but seeing a deal in Tesco for my particular brand and type of engine oil I used an opportunity of ramps overnight at my local garage to do an oil change. Whilst up in the air I was able to have a poke around with a torch and try and familiarise myself with all that's beneath the car. I've probably stated already but I'm very limited in mechanical experience but I'm **** hot at googling and watching youtube tutorials! Having bagged 8 litres of Castrol Edge 5W-40 for £49 out of Tesco I cracked on with the oil change and in doing so I found a few oil leaks or perhaps one that is spreading. Initially I had the feeling this is ultimately fouling the post-cat O2 sensors but I'm not sure how easily they can be affected due to their permanent location. I cleaned up as best I could for now and will inspect again soon but I wonder if this is the source of lean/rich mixture codes that I have long experienced thrown up in diagnostic checks.

As a matter of course I plan on replacing the oil filter housing gasket before I can determine if it is possibly the sump gasket that is leaking but that is a more difficult job that I doubt will have much impact on how the car runs in terms of idling and fuel economy. I'll attach a few images from my time under the car, ropey due to lighting and angles, in case anyone with a better eye wants to see.




That area was covered in black sludge which I didn't take a photo of, the black connectors were completely covered. The first image is of the sump towards the front where it looks like the gasket may be leaking or that the bolt itself isn't sealing? I'm guessing here...



From driver side, looking at the rear of sump and you can see the amount of crap that is flowing backwards and congealing on the sensor connections...

Regardless, no change but it was good to change the oil after 10k (BMW recommend 15k intervals...) and I will swap the oil filter when the gasket arrives as well as replace air/pollen filters and whatnot. After this, I decided to retrace my steps and also see if I could find anything from the top regarding the oil leak. When I had the car up on the ramps I found that there was a pipe wrapped in foam coming out from my sump that had oil on it.

Retracing my steps from above and feeling around behind the intake manifold wherever I could reach eventually allowed me to discover the other end of said pipe floating loose and unattached - it was the crankcase return pipe. This was replaced 4500 miles ago and I can only guess that it wasn't seated on to the crankcase properly meaning that when I moved the intake manifold recently I completely dislodged it. I've read the connection on this pipe is ridiculous and taking it off results in damage/replacement or special tools/****ing about. I managed to give myself more access and push the pipe upwards until I could hear that satisfying click upon successful connection.

Quite disappointed to have to deal with that to be honest, it was a healthy bill from a specialist after all (£800) but I guess these things can happen. Nonetheless, I've managed to run a good 500 miles since last Thursday and a) car idled perfectly and I've b) noticed a significant improvement upon fuel economy. During the first 100+ miles the car did throw some codes again (2A2E/2A2F) which I cleared and haven't seen again since. The engine however has redeveloped a minor bump in the revs here and there when it is left to idle but I'll run it some more to see if it sorts itself out or not. Additionally, since the oil change I have developed what seems to be a common lifter ticking noise from the engine. I have always used 5W-30 but I am now wondering if I should use some sort of engine oil flush and start using 5W-40 going forward since the engine is over the 100k miles mark now...

Anyway, some form of success and I'm heading in the right direction at least! I'm seriously hoping this is the end of the issues I've had with fuel mixture and economy... Sadly, driving through Edinburgh (like a granny btw, interested to see how good the fuel economy is now) I ended up with what seems to be a knackered driver's rear shock and top mount on sunday when I transferred from tarmac to cobbles... if it's not one thing, it's the other! Car is in the garage just now for that as I don't have the time this week but the owner of the garage did loan me his cracking X5 whilst it is in getting fixed! I'm in love!


Last edited by beambeam; 25-07-2018 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 25-07-2018, 06:43 AM   #28
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Some more cracking updates and what a loan car
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Old 25-07-2018, 07:31 AM   #29
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Fantastic updates mate. Hopefully you'll get all those little issues sorted fairly soon. That courtesy car is a beauty!! Id love an x5...

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Old 25-07-2018, 02:49 PM   #30
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love your car, really. I will send you a Pm about RF tires.
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