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Old 26-09-2017, 11:14 AM   #1
das6dan
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VW Golf Mk5 - Needs a winter coat

What is it with women and cars...my missus has had this golf 10 years and it's a mess lol.

Its got it all, rust, dents and paint loss.

Paint loss down to Primer? A victim of pressure washing ! Got this on the bonnet too.

IS this sortable with chipex type solution?



Dent with rust, i know this needs to be beaten, filled then painted by a pro, but could I sand this rust off and protect?



Door edge with rust



I'm detailing it too, but concerned with the level of clearcoat i've got left.

Thoughts were;

Mezerna Super Heavy cut to get swirls defects out.
Sonus Super Finish Polish to get to decent gloss (If i'm lucky)
Seal up with SRP (all i got).
Collinite wax to finish

Last edited by das6dan; 26-09-2017 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 26-09-2017, 02:06 PM   #2
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Depends on the level of finish you're after. For instance, if you get yourself some Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber, you can use that to "passivate" the rust on the door edges, then you can touch it in in the usual fashion. Arguably worth rubbing it down first with some fine abrasive (2000, 2500 grit) to give the paint a key to adhere to, then wipe it down with some panel wipe to ensure grease free (you can substitute lighter fuel in a pinch).

For the wheel arch damage, I'd just use something like Bilt Hamber Dynax UC to smother the rust until you can get it to a pro to repair the panel properly.

For the first picture, you could mask off the damage, lightly rub down with 2500 grit, wipe down and then touch in with colour and then clear. Then use a block to sand flat, compound and polish.

It's a metallic paint so the match may not be perfect, but it's the only option short of either a smart repair (no idea how feasible) or a full repaint of that panel.

If you're concerned about depths of clear coat left, you could grab some Glare polishes and fill rather than cut back (it's not filling like a glaze, it's a semi-permanent filling).
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Old 26-09-2017, 03:54 PM   #3
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If it's the front arch, just replace it. They can be bought cheap enough new and are a common fault for rusting even without damage.

If it's that neglected and poorly looked after, why chase correction on a poor panel? Just aim to give it a tidy up and bring back some gloss and protect. Just touch up the dust spots as suggested above and save your time, money and products on a car worth your effort.

Might be a worthy car to experiment with your technique instead of using a scrap panel though!
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Old 26-09-2017, 06:24 PM   #4
das6dan
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Well it is a car I can practice on...just don't tell the missus

Rust, thanks for the tips, it sounds like its a case of suffocating the rust and protecting it. When you say "touch in" after Hydrate 80 does that mean paint>clear?

I might get a CHIPEX kit for the paintwork issues, they match paint and it includes lacquer.

On getting the paintwork (glossy) into a better state, would going to the SONUS first then onto Waxing be a good option rather than compound start? I've got a DA so wouldn't mind seeing how good I can get her back upto shining.
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Old 26-09-2017, 06:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by das6dan View Post
Rust, thanks for the tips, it sounds like its a case of suffocating the rust and protecting it. When you say "touch in" after Hydrate 80 does that mean paint>clear?

I might get a CHIPEX kit for the paintwork issues, they match paint and it includes lacquer.

On getting the paintwork (glossy) into a better state, would going to the SONUS first then onto Waxing be a good option rather than compound start? I've got a DA so wouldn't mind seeing how good I can get her back upto shining.
Yep, after Hydrate, paint, clearcoat.

I have been working on various small chips on the edges of my doors (also metallic black as it happens) and I'm just using a touch up kit from the dealer. Then I use these to apply the paint. I don't generally bother with the clear on the door edges, I am mostly just looking to prevent rust and hide any white primer that may be showing. Clear gets used on any larger stone chips (one or two on the leading edge of the bonnet).

Well worth seeing how far you can get without the use of a compounding step. Make sure you decontaminate the paint first (ie iron, tar, clay - appreciate this may be teaching you to suck eggs!)
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Old 26-09-2017, 08:29 PM   #6
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if its a golf mk5 and the front wing has gone it can be replaced under warranty, aslong as it hasnt had any paint.

it was a design fault - theres a sponge on the inside to reduce noise but it holds the water and rusts from the inside.

take it to vw and dont get mugged off
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Old 26-09-2017, 08:32 PM   #7
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Ah unfortunately its the back passenger side.
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Old 26-09-2017, 09:50 PM   #8
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Just ordered some touch up paint (got lacquer in mix) /primer and them sticks for the paint work.

Went with some Kurust, the other stuff you guys recommended is quite steep and this is the missus motor at the end of the day lol.

Will do a report I think over the coming weekends.
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Old 27-09-2017, 03:30 PM   #9
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Sonax kit is really good. Art nr 311200.
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Old 30-09-2017, 05:24 PM   #10
das6dan
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Just got the kurust delivered (yes lazy I know but busy in the week).

Most the rust came off to bear metal with a bit of 60grit.

Probably a waste of money going for better kits.

Next step i'll add some primer.
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