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Old 28-09-2017, 10:08 PM   #11
waqasr
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Dont have any of those, Ill have to order one.
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Old 29-09-2017, 01:40 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by waqasr View Post
Ive used it with LC Yellow cutting pad, but cant remember if it was closed or open foam, though that would create some serious heat. 101 has always performed fine for me with wool. But what pad do you recommend, whats the most aggressive closed foam pad available?
Firstly I'd recommend Lake Country Hyrdo-Tech pads. However reading the post again your problem maybe something else. 40hrs may seem along time but you really could have sanded too early. The paint will not have been anywhere near the ideal hardness for sanding the clear. You may have unintentionally inflicted deep wounds without realising bud.
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Old 29-09-2017, 02:02 AM   #13
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Are you sure that's not sanding marks under the base? On the primer?
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Old 29-09-2017, 01:54 PM   #14
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Firstly I'd recommend Lake Country Hyrdo-Tech pads. However reading the post again your problem maybe something else. 40hrs may seem along time but you really could have sanded too early. The paint will not have been anywhere near the ideal hardness for sanding the clear. You may have unintentionally inflicted deep wounds without realising bud.
This also crossed my mind, but this 2k im using is supposed to be sandable after 24hrs air dry, it passed the finger nail test so I went ahead with it.

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Are you sure that's not sanding marks under the base? On the primer?
Im almost 100% certain its in the clear, the primer was high build 2k and sanded with 800 grit which was then covered in pearl shadow blue, base was not sanded.

Last night I went over it with meguairs uni grit 2500 and 3000 which has seemed to left a very even smooth scratch pattern. Will buff it up and give updates.

Thanks guys.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:46 PM   #15
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That's why I wetsanding only with da 3mm sander
Matador isnt hq product. If You sanding by hand choose better 3M, Nikken, Kovax (bufflex)... and finish sanding with P3000 or finer sand paper.
Good Luck
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:02 AM   #16
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You will be far better off using a closed cell foam cutting pad. M101 doesn't like wool or microfibre pads at all bud.
M101 works amazingly well with microfiber and it also works with wool.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:37 AM   #17
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M101 works amazingly well with microfiber and it also works with wool.
What's the working time like with a MF cutting pad with M101 and does it dust like M105
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:06 AM   #18
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What's the working time like with a MF cutting pad with M101 and does it dust like M105
Havent used m105 but m101 around 3-4 passes and with water more. It dusts but cut us amazing. Not nicest compound but works
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Old 03-10-2017, 03:07 PM   #19
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Just to update, got a yellow LC pad and correction is still less than with purple wool, just how I remembered. Also creates too much heat especially on plastic so wont be using that anymore.

when I went over the panel with nikken 2500 and 3000 is definitly helped but like pawlik has said maybe the starke papers arnt as good so will be replacing all my papers with 3m and nikken.

Chongo working time with 101 is actually quite long, however it is a dusty compound, wipeoff is no hastle though.
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:06 PM   #20
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Just to update, got a yellow LC pad and correction is still less than with purple wool, just how I remembered. Also creates too much heat especially on plastic so wont be using that anymore.

when I went over the panel with nikken 2500 and 3000 is definitly helped but like pawlik has said maybe the starke papers arnt as good so will be replacing all my papers with 3m and nikken.

Chongo working time with 101 is actually quite long, however it is a dusty compound, wipeoff is no hastle though.
Cheers for the info bud I think I'll stick to my D300. Used it today again and still never lets me down on a Flexi MF cutting pad
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