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Old 22-06-2017, 11:15 PM   #11
nick_mcuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c87reed View Post
As discussed above, I used 2500, then 2000, then 1500 wet and dry with a soap solution. Used an old fine Rupes pad on the DA and fine polish to clear sanding marks and polish up. Headlight is past its best but was good enough for MOT. Once cleaned off with Eraser I topped it off with DLUX.

]

So you went from a fine grade paper to a coarse grain paper to finish up???

Different method!



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Old 22-06-2017, 11:17 PM   #12
c87reed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_mcuk View Post
So you went from a fine grade paper to a coarse grain paper to finish up???

Different method!



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No ha ha, I meant to write 1500, 2000, then 2500.
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Old 22-06-2017, 11:46 PM   #13
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I did 1500 2000 2500 all wet, Mike@Autogeek suggests keep all papers in individual wet containers, used the 1500 untill the slurry was clearer, then 2000 2500 after. Followed up with #105 LC Orange...all good here on this Clio.
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Old 29-06-2017, 02:47 PM   #14
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Did my daughters car over weekend, tried using the meguirs kit that I bought but wasn't harsh enough to remove yellow colour on headlight.

Wet sanded starting with 600 then moved finer, eventually finished of with megs 205/105 on my mini shinemate unit, green and orange pads.

Well pleased as it was my first go at this sort of thing and MOT passed

pic after 1 light for comparison.

IMG_4934.JPG
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Old 29-06-2017, 03:10 PM   #15
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Good information, learned a lot. Last pair of lights I did I went about it in a different way but only because I already had the materials in for some other work.


Started with metal polish, I had some Simichrome - use other metal polish now such as Solvol. Then went to 2500 then 4000 micromesh and then Plastrx.

Results were perfect at that point but it was suggested that I use a wax protection and used Renaissance wax which is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish in antique restoration and museum conservation. Someone else said that I would have got just as good a protection with a domestic spray polish for furniture that has a high wax content, meant for wood furniture, not Mr Sheene or Pledge, nowhere near enough wax content.

Results were perfect
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Old 04-01-2018, 04:27 PM   #16
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Is this any help to you?

https://youtu.be/uqOKmZ9mMfc

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Old 21-02-2018, 07:45 PM   #17
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Ditto, has to be 1500-2000-2500 and manually is easiest if first time.
Plastic X gets a big thumbs down from me, so that's been answered.
Patience on the wet sanding is probably key to be sure no heavier scratches are left. They wont polish out as easy if left.
The polishing off with a medium cut on polycarbonate is my choice and having an iBrid makes it quite easy.
Using a 100mm DA not for me, tried once and wouldn't use it again.
All personal choice I guess.
Seal with Chem Guys Jet Seal is a personal favourite product of mine, so versatile. Not cheap but goes a long way.
Wax works good, just need to wipe them over regular with more which makes sure they are protected, hardly an effort on such small areas.

PS.
Watched that link given above, had I have watched that I would not have had to learn the hard way. That YouTube is excellent short cut without trial and error.

Last edited by Itstony; 21-02-2018 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 21-02-2018, 08:01 PM   #18
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"Using a 100mm DA not for me"

I finished mine off with a 2" wool pad in the DA - did the job spot on
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Old 27-02-2018, 09:47 PM   #19
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I cleaned up a merc headlight recently. Was going to buy one of the kits but decided to just use the kit I had at home.

A 1/4 sheet of p2500 folded a few times, used wet, then a hand polish with red bottle t-cut ( yes really ) and a coat of wax.




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Old 28-02-2018, 09:52 AM   #20
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One of the most satisfying jobs you can do in terms of 'visible' [see what I did there? ] results.
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