Detailing World Forum banner

More cut? Or refine more?

17K views 65 replies 17 participants last post by  truupR 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

Joined to get some advice from the experts. Fairly inexperienced at detailing:buffer:

Currently correcting my 97 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR (deep pearl grey colour (KN6)).

Products I'm using/used with my Das 6 Pro DA (in no particular order):

  • Orange hexlogic
  • Black hexlogic
  • Menzerna yellow pad
  • Menzerna Black pad

  • Scholl S20 black
  • Megs 105
  • Megs ultimate
  • Menzerna Super Finish PF3500

I've prepped the whole car, sadly leaving behind some marring from the claybar. Not to worry. The Scholl S20 + orange hexlogic left good results on a 2 pass run. I thought I was making good progress, sorry for the big pictures :eek:



to



quick side by side, left not done, right side done



Now after working down the one side of the car, I started up the other thinking I was making very good process. By chance I picked up the torch for a quick inspection, I started to notice something strange. When shining the torch directly at the paint, it looks flawless. However, holding it at a high or low angle, the light starts to 'throw' and not give a perfectly clear reflection:



I tried re-passing over it with the scholl S20 black + orange hex with no change. I tried it at lower speeds, I then swapped it, trying the megs #105 and ultimate compounds again at various speeds. No luck, still getting the light scattering at different angles.

This is where my knowledge ends. I'm not sure what the next step I need to perfect the finish. I've tried swapping out the pads for the black hexlogic and menzerna pads with the PF3500.

Do I need to cut more to remove the final imperfections? Or do I need something in between cutting and finishing, as I've noticed I've not got a compound/pad that's somewhere in between?

Any help appreciated :wall:
 
See less See more
4
#53 ·
It does sound like you have soft paint and you have a problem with slight micro marring which I think it could be from the pad your using is either to soft to break down Sonax perfect finish which has a nice long working time. Having soft paint can be a challenge when it comes to finishing but easy to correct, are you using any panel wipe after PF because it just could be the slight oils you are leaving behind after polishing, plus your not working it properly might well be your problem.

Essence which I used today is a product that cures this problem your having by the choice of pad you choose either a soft finishing pad or a pad that is a bit firmer like the white polishing pad from chemical guys this will work with Essence as it contains micro abrasives to remove slight hazing or micro marring as long as you work Essence properly.

Carpro do a gloss pad that works fantastic with Essence so have a read on Essence and give it ago. Ps, ensure you panel wipe before Essence
 
#57 ·
Sorry I thought I'd add to this as a LOT of detailing videos come up on my youtube recommended xD

So I was watching AmmoNYC talking about removing buffer trails or pad marks on soft paint - he talks about how using a very very soft pad on soft paint actually causes buffer marks?! And typically people reach for an even softer pad thinking its going to fix, but actually causes more problems. Instead he talks about using a very hard pad on soft paint to remove the buffer trails. Thoughts anyone?

here's the video:

AmmoNYC
 
#58 ·
Your going to confuse yourself if you watch to many videos :thumb:

As I said before any refining polish will remove buffer trails you just have to find the right polishing pad. I never use a finishing pad if I've installed buffer trails even on soft paint, I tend to use the Rupes yellow (which is not hard) or a L/C HT pad, you still need some firmness to breakdown or work the polish (205) because you will be wasting your time. But Essence has abrasives in it to remove buffer trails in soft paint with ease:thumb:
 
#64 ·
Right, finally got some time to try out this carpro essence.

Came through along with my rupes yellows and........... massive success. Unsure if its the pads, product or the combination of them both but FINALLY it's at a point where there's no pad marks left behind.

Primed the pad, quickly covered the area on speed 1, then up to between 3.5/4 for a slow 1 pass gave the results. The fleck in the paint seems to 'pop' a little more when looking at it in the light. Perhaps a placebo effect, but it looks to me like it does.

Anyway, a few before and afters - apologies for the pretty dire picture quality

Before:




After:




Really happy with the results and who knows maybe someone will stumble on this thread looking for a solution when working on soft paint. Thanks for all the help Chongo, Steelghost and everyone else who stuck with me through my moments of sheer frustration :thumb:
 
#66 ·
Sorry for the newb question but it's not clear to me if you sorted that dull patch? Had it gone through clear coat or did it come back with the right gear?
I've not attempted that part of the car yet. Risky but I'm going to try a one pass with this essence + rupes yellow combo and see how it comes out. There was no paint transfer on the pad at the time it happened, and there's no transfer on a white MF towel when wiping it over - so I haven't struck through the clearcoat....yet

Once I get around to doing that part of the car I'll report back the results. Complete and utter guess but maybe the heat has some how dulled the finish on the clear coat (even though the DA was set to 3 :confused:) The more I've looked at the paint VERY closely while working on it, the more I can see it's had a respray pretty much all over. I'm sure that'd have something to do with the really bizarre dulling. The car is 20 years old, but the paint certainly isn't.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top