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Old 06-06-2018, 05:58 PM   #281
MBRuss
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Thanks William. I really appreciate your comprehensive answer. That puts my mind to rest.

Thanks
Russell

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Old 11-06-2018, 11:31 PM   #282
Mr Whippy
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Just curious how rusty the hose to gun union should get?

I’ve had this washer about 3 months and used it about 10 times, with this connection been on/off each time.



Is this likely to impact seal performance and removal/refitting?


Out of curiosity do QR and swivel joints exist for this connection? Do I need a new pipe and gun? Or can I buy the parts to fit (properly, not stick out adding)?
Do Kranzle do trade ins if I need new hoses and a gun?


Thanks

Dave
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Old 12-06-2018, 11:40 AM   #283
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I wouldn’t be concerned with the fitting on the end; they can get much worse than that and still work perfectly. On a service we often just clean them off with a wire brush and grease them. Even when they get bad it’s still not difficult to replace the O-ring. I would suggest rubbing that with a little sand paper and then applying a little grease or Vaseline to the end if it worries you.

They do quick release fittings after the trigger (for swapping lances) which you can do that with the machine and water supply still on, if you haven’t connected them correctly you could just release the gun and the spray will stop.
Q/R fittings on the end of the hose don’t have the same safety because if they pop off, you wouldn’t be able to stop the spray quickly.
You can fit after market Q/R fittings before the trigger, but it’s not an option that Kranzle list because of strict safety laws in various countries that they comply with.

You would have to ask your local agent/supplier about trading in a gun or lance to see if that is something they can do.

William
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:23 PM   #284
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Hi,
I recently purchased a 1050 TS, but have only managed to use it 3 times in as many months due the the hose ban currently in place, I am wondering if this washer can be used from a water butt?
if so, Do I srop a supply hoes in the top of the Butt or should I need to try get a tap fitted to the bottom of the butt?
Thanks for any info.
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Old 15-08-2018, 10:56 AM   #285
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Hi, check online through the details provided by your water company, but cleaning your car with a hose pipe will use far more water than through a pressure washer. Using a pressure washer is usually ok while a hose pipe ban is in place. I can post a few links confirming this from some water companies, plus there is another thread on detailing world all about the hose pipe ban and pressure washers: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=406873

To answer your question, the 1050 will not suck water out from a water tank. Some brands say their machines *can run from a tank* but they don’t say it can suck water from a tank, usually they will mean if the large water tank is elevated, like in the loft and you have a wide bore hose down to the machine or having a water pressure booster or submersible pump then it can run from a water tank. If there is sufficient flow and pressure then its fine but to avoid any damage to the pump its best to have that machine connected to the mains tap.
Other models do suck water from a pump with no issues, those have larger pumps and slower motors.
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Old 20-08-2018, 02:03 PM   #286
steelghost
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You can also use a small pump in a water butt to give a pressure that your 1050 will run from.
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Old 29-08-2018, 11:44 PM   #287
jonjay
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Hi Kranzle,

Im in the market for a new pressure washer. Just spent nearly £200 on a gun/lance, quick release fittings etc..etc..

I am considering two machines
- k10/122TS
or
- 1152 TST

Which one would you recommend? I understand the 1152 is slightly more powerful. Is it enough of a difference to make any difference? They flow the same amount of water...
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Old 15-10-2018, 11:41 AM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBRuss View Post
Thanks William, I appreciate your help.

Hopefully I'll get some time to look at it this weekend and will try to get some grips in there, however, even with the front cover removed from the machine only around half of the cap is easily accessible, as it's close to other parts on one side, making it hard to get something like mole grips in there, plus the cap is relatively smooth and round, so I suspect the grips may just slip.

Will have a go anyway and let you know how I get on.

Thanks
Russ
Getting back to this, I finally got chance a few weeks ago to attempt to get the oil cap off. After removing the front cover of the machine again, I used some mole grips and a piece of non-slip rubber matting (to protect the cap and provide grip) and the cap came off really easily. Seemingly the torque in the cap must have been just a hair tighter than I could undo by hand, so with the grips it was really easy. Thanks to the piece of rubber matting there was no damage to the cap whatsoever.

Oil levels were fine also.

Is there a recommended oil to use when it comes to changing it? I only use the machine once or twice a month on average, so assume it probably won't need it's first change until it's a year old?

Then how often?

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Old 17-10-2018, 10:14 AM   #289
Kranzle
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Glad to hear that the cap came off without too much hassle once you had some grips on it and that the oil level was good.
Kranzle do supply a 1ltr bottle of oil for that machine, Part No:400922, or you are recommended to use either 15w40 or 10w40 semi synthetic.

15w40 used to be the oil of choice when all the machines were bypass machines (they kept running when you let go of the trigger) because the machine would warm up quickly and run hotter.

Now that most the machines are Total Stop (they switch off when you let go of the trigger) the machines run colder more often and the 10w40 oil offers a little more protection when cool.

There is so little between the two oils that it almost doesn’t matter which you pick, if you already buy either oil for putting in your car or something then use that one.

The handbook states that the first oil change is recommended after 50 hours. After that it’s only ‘required’ if the oil turns milky, personally for the cost of the oil I would change it once a year to ensure everything is protected.

If a machine was used every day and installed in a van with a water tank, drying towels and wash mitts etc as the humidity is higher I would change the oil 4 times a year (every 3 months) for the extra £2.30 per month running cost I think it makes sense.
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Old 17-10-2018, 02:32 PM   #290
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Thanks. Why not go fully synthetic with something like a 0W40? That would offer even better cold weather protection, but still keep the 40 grade for once it's warmed up.

Or is there a reason not to use fully synthetic?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kranzle View Post
Glad to hear that the cap came off without too much hassle once you had some grips on it and that the oil level was good.
Kranzle do supply a 1ltr bottle of oil for that machine, Part No:400922, or you are recommended to use either 15w40 or 10w40 semi synthetic.

15w40 used to be the oil of choice when all the machines were bypass machines (they kept running when you let go of the trigger) because the machine would warm up quickly and run hotter.

Now that most the machines are Total Stop (they switch off when you let go of the trigger) the machines run colder more often and the 10w40 oil offers a little more protection when cool.

There is so little between the two oils that it almost doesn’t matter which you pick, if you already buy either oil for putting in your car or something then use that one.

The handbook states that the first oil change is recommended after 50 hours. After that it’s only ‘required’ if the oil turns milky, personally for the cost of the oil I would change it once a year to ensure everything is protected.

If a machine was used every day and installed in a van with a water tank, drying towels and wash mitts etc as the humidity is higher I would change the oil 4 times a year (every 3 months) for the extra £2.30 per month running cost I think it makes sense.
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