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Old 04-07-2018, 12:10 AM   #11
Christian6984
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nice video, do have to say really impressed with every Gyeon product I've used. I remember applying my first paint coating to the Mini which was Prime which was very easy for something id never done previously. Its now been replaced with Pure but sure he said it can be a bit grabby upon wiping which would make me a little nervous again.
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:31 AM   #12
yulser
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thanks again for all the input.

I assume this is safe for use on black plastic trim
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Old 04-07-2018, 11:49 AM   #13
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A bit late to the party but Ill add my 20c

First off prep work. As with any product its best to apply to a washed, deconed, clayed and polished surface. For polish you can use whatever you like. You can use the Gyeon primer but be aware it needs to cure for 12-24h before you apply Cancoat which is a waste of time in my world. If you want to use a primer product then use Carpro essence (3h cure time) or better yet TAC system primer (1h cure), but really any paint cleanser or abrassive polish will do just fine.

Application. Can not be simpler. Spray on the MF towel and wipe on the surface like using a QD, turn the towel to a dry side and remove immediately. Work in the shade. One bad thing IMO is that it does not leave a trace behind (if it does its not very noticible) so without proper lighting you can not tell where you applied it on the surface. Its like layering an invisible layer. You can layer it as much as you want as long as its 1h apart.

Beading & sheeting is awesome!

Durability...It lasted the entire winter without much issue. I havent really removed it yet but just topped it with OPT opti-seal and since the paint is super slick I dont entend to polish the car yet. Im also testing cancoat on my summer sets of wheels as we speak. 3 months in and they are still beading lilke mad. I washed them 2-3 times now.

Chemical resistance. Ive tested this a bit and sprayed on undiluted APC (around 12 ph), aggitated and rinsed. It had very little effect on the coating.

Problems I noticed. It clogges the sprayer so I suggest you rinse the sprayer after every use and after every layering. Heat up some water (or use APC or paint prep product) and pour it in a cup or a plastic cup and use that to remove product from the sprayer head. This will help but some dry product may still be left behind to clogg the sprayer head.

I have applied it outside with some issues on top panels (roof, hood) acting a bit worn off after a short period of time. Side panels were fine. Issue is its been applied in late fall with low temps and humid enviroment. It doesnt take long to cure (about 3h) but I still advise you do 2-3 coats on these panels and wait for warmer weather to do so or keep it in a garage if you can.

And yes its safe on plastic trim...just apply and wipe off same as on paint.

Hope it helps
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:51 PM   #14
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Thanks , I've decided to try and source the use of a garage to leave it in overnight while it cures

going to get some use out of the petes 53 wax that's currently on it an apply the can coat in august
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Old 03-08-2018, 04:34 PM   #15
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Another fan of Can Coat here. Had it applied professionally on a brand new car. Lasted a good 6-8 months. Just reapplied it myself and very pleased with the results. Polish, panel wipe down and 2 coats with an hour in between then garaged overnight. I used 6 brand new micro fibre cloths to wipe off the excess.

I use the BSD/V07 mix as a LSP and the results are fantastic, never get any water spots at all.

One tin will do the car with 2 coats 3 or times so really economical too.
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Old 03-08-2018, 04:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueberry View Post
Iíve used Can Coat quite a lot and much prefer to use this rather than Wet Coat. Gives a much better finish and performs better than Wet Coat. 2 coats, an hour apart, and it will last for nearly a year. You could use Wet Coat Maybe once a month or every couple of months but I prefer to use Cure as a drying aid, diluted 1:1, and that keeps it topped up and performing.

So itíll last a year if you top it up every wash???

Wow lol
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
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So itíll last a year if you top it up every wash???

Wow lol
Lol bit like Triggerís broom; three new heads and four new handles, broom is as good as the day I got it.
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Old 22-08-2018, 08:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimo View Post
So itíll last a year if you top it up every wash???



Wow lol


I donít Top it up every wash ! Itís something that you could do like many other Coatings on the market. They all have a QD type product so please donít try to be clever.
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Old 22-08-2018, 11:14 AM   #19
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Hi Guys,

Little question to pick in on the subject. I'm a Gyeon Cure user after every wash (like the glasslook it provides and slickness).

I want to put Sonax PNS under the Gyeon cure as sealant. The price difference between Cancoat 48.99€ and PNS 17€ is enough to doubt.

Is there a big difference in the look from cancoat and PNS if i use CURE every wash? Or will cure fix the grabbiness/look from the Sonax?

Thanks !!
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:57 PM   #20
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update on can coat

hi

just thought I'd give an update on my experience with can coat.

Applied can coat at the weekend . Full paint cleanse and machine polish . I used Bilt hamber paint cleanser. Not sure if I should have splashed out on Gyeon prep. Anyway I then applied can coat . left 2 hrs and applied second coat .

I started applying with a MF applicator and then wipe off with supplied cloth. Not sure if this was putting too much product on or not but found this method difficult when removing. So I then changed to just using the supplied MF to apply.

This is my first experience with any coatings but found the product drying to paint very very quickly. Very grabby and difficult to remove. Was only applying to small sections of a panel at a time but found that by the time I turned round to change to a clean MF the product had became difficult to remove. After a lot of hard work I felt the finish was indeed excellent. Not as slick as wet coat but very good gloss. Noticeably better than WC in gloss.

Bad news is that about 15 hrs after applying it started to rain a little and 24 hrs after the second coat the rain got heavier. I was hoping for 24 hrs without rain to allow it to fully cure.

I relation to beeding. I honestly don't think it's any better than wet coat. Maybe I need to apply cure on top........surely the rain would not have washed this off or reduced the hydrophic ability after 15-20 hrs?

In anyone's opinion did I not apply this right ? Should I have used Gyeon prep instead of bilt hamber paint cleanser ?

I used the paint cleanser then machine polish and then paint cleanser again followed with a diluted IPA wipe down > then can coat

I'd appreciate any opinions ........please
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