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Bonnets - stone chip removal procedure

603K views 126 replies 79 participants last post by  James246 
#1 · (Edited)
I was offered an Amethyst (same colour as my car) bonnet for my SAAB 9000. As those who know him will testify, for the previous owner keeping cars clean and shiney is not particualrly high on his list of priorities - it had never been cleaned let alone polished in his two year ownership, so it would be interesting to see how well the bonnet came up with a bit of detailing

As you can see from the test section it did come up rather well.



So well in fact it showed up the multitude of stone chips.



So I thought I would explain how I plan on making these less noticeable. I am sure it is not the way the professional would approach it but I have used this technique before with some success.

Items required: A can or two of lighter fuel, small tub of matching or similar colour paint (Humbrol enamel paints are ideal - I used black), polishing pad (ideally lint free), protective gloves.

1. Wipe surface over with a cleaner - I use lighter fuel.
2. Squirt lighter fuel on to pad and add some paint.
3. Apply paint on to surface ensuring it is well rubbed in to the chips.
4. Leave for half an hour and repeat the procedure at least three times till the chips appear 'full'.
5. For large stone chips get a toothpick and dip in the paint and apply to hole.
6. Leave for a few days for the paint to dry.
6. Using 3000 grit wet and dry rub over the entire surface, taking particualr care with the larger toothpick filled stone chips.
7. Machine polish and finish with a wax.

This will get rid of 80-90 percent of pinholes.

UPDATE: I have given the bonnet a couple of coats.



Original photo for comparison



I know it may look a bit frightening but a steady nerve and taking time will reap rewards. As explained it will reduce thee appearance of chips rather than remove them completely. Anyway another coat or two and then I will leave it for a while for the paint to harden.

Here is the bonnet after a test section using Farcela Scratch paste on a rotary. You may find there are a few pin holes that may have been missed, so use a toothpick and paint to fill them.



It will then have some Menzerna Final Finish - test section shown here:



....and will be followed with a a cleaner and wax.

Almost complete.



Bonnet has not been waxed at this stage. :) :cool:
 
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#58 ·
Would it work with something like a Megs foam applicator? My bonnet and front bumper are the only parts that let my car down and touching them up, if you'll pardon the phrase, will look just as bad I reckon.

I figure I'll have a go at this and if it doesn't work I've lost nothing and will get them painted properly....
 
#59 ·
Riley, for small stone chips a close colour match is fine. Problem with using a quick drying paint is that you do not have much time to apply it.

Superspec, best to use a lint free cloth as a pad is too 'soft' for what you want. Remember the idea is to force paint in to the holes rather than apply it to the surface of the panel.

HTH
 
#64 ·
Would this work for a long thin scratch. I have a 6" long scratch on Jerez Black paint that seems to go down to the primer. I'm looking for a way to fix it up. I have some touch up paint and some clear coat paint on order.

Has anybody put a few coats of clear on top before sanding? The touch up paint supplier recommended using a few coats on top of the other.

I'm thinking I'll rub the paint into the scratch until it seems close to level. Then apply a few coats of clear in the same way. Then sand it and polish.

Does that approach seem reasonable?
 
#65 ·
That makes sense gobrigavitch.

I have used a similer method on a number of cars and bumpers and it usually works well. Secret is to apply a small amount at a time and let it dry. If the paint is still soft it will pull out of the scratch when you sand it.
 
#69 · (Edited)
Apologies for not replying sooner.

Blue407 asked: Few quick questions

I presume its the lighter fluid liquid you used, not the pressurised cans?
Yes, as you can add as little or as much as you wish, It's also cheaper!

Do you know if the scratch cleaner in the scratchmaster kits from Paints4u would also be suitable?
Possibly if they are not cellulose in which case they may well dry too quickly and may not wipe off so easily with the lughter fluid. I found an enamel paint (Humbrol) works best as it does not dry too quickly allowing you to rub it in to the holes and scratches easier.

Should I mix the paint with some clearcote before applying?
Not really worth it as once you have finished you should not be able to see the pinholes.
 
#73 · (Edited)
Ben

If it was me I would use lighter fluid as this will not affect the original paintwork and is much easier to administer the correct amount. I would also go for Humbrol enamel paint which is around £1.60 a tin- enough for bonnet and wings. The reason for the paint is that it does not dry too quickly so you can work it in to the chips easier.

Cellulose, I find dries too quickly.
 
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