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Old 01-06-2018, 01:20 PM   #11
Atkinson91
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You say the paint feels 'grabby' rather than rough... I'd say it's gabby because you've used a solvent on it (AG tar) and not washing the solvent off after

Also you don't want to use polishing to remove contaminates, you wanna remove all that before you polish
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Old 01-06-2018, 11:45 PM   #12
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I rinsed each panel thoroughly after wiping the paint with a good dose of tar remover. Perhaps I should've done 2BM again?

After rinse i tried the car with a drying MF towel then wiped each panel with 25% IPA prior to Wax. Should I be worried about anything?

Could the solvent become trapped under the Wax or will it escape through the Wax? Will any remaining solvents be washed after on my next 2BM or will the Wax effectively protect it?

Thank you.
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post
Here's what I did (to the whole car):
Foam
Rinse
2BM
Rinse
Iron-X
Rinse
AG Tar Remover
Rinse
Dry

Once dried, I used 30% IPA and wiped down. The paint felt grabby! I tested another panel with a QD. Still felt very grabby. Any idea why?
30% IPA with black paint especially (will be quite warm even if over cast) can lead to paint /clear coat softening as the IPA effectively begins to dissolve the finish. Leave well alone for a few days in case this is the cause. IPA is NOT paint friendly.
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:58 AM   #14
Andyblue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post
Here's what I did (to the whole car):
Foam
Rinse
2BM
Rinse
Iron-X
Rinse
AG Tar Remover
Rinse
Dry

Once dried, I used 30% IPA and wiped down. The paint felt grabby! I tested another panel with a QD. Still felt very grabby. Any idea why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post
I skipped that because the car was polished only last week and the paint has always been silky smooth until today after this decon process.
I didn't want to marr the black paint so I thought Iron X would be the substitute?
I've applied DSW and the foam pad felt grabby. It's smooth now with the Wax, which is to be expected.

In addition to previous post bt BH-Lab, why did you apply Iron-X and Tar remover to the car again after a week you've polished and waxed the car - surely there can't have been much on to require the car being done again ?

Also, can I ask, why when the car was dry, did you wipe down with IPA ?

Sounds like you might have removed everything you applied the previous week...
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Old 02-06-2018, 08:14 AM   #15
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It sounds like you are making extra work for yourself...clay then polish again,LSP of your choice..finish.SJ.
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Old 02-06-2018, 09:33 AM   #16
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Hi Bradley, It does indeed appear BH are advising you may have softened the clear coat.

Leaving well alone right now may be sound advice to allow the finish to harden again.

Maybe in around a week wash it with a mild shampoo and see what the results are?

I don't pretend to be an expert but I'd think as things are, wading in with a clay bar or further attempts at correction may be quite dangerous and leaving things alone for a while the safer way to proceed.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Harry.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:51 PM   #17
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Firstly thank you to each and every one of you for the helpful advice. I'm continuing to learn a lot of new information and that is through the dedicated support in which I've found through this brilliant forum.

I'm sure it has baffled many to see that I've performed a full decontamination after correcting the paint. There are 2 reasons why a decontamination wasn't performed prior to polishing. 1) I didn't set out to do a full correction. It was mainly just a quick touch up on a few scuffs here and there. 2) The paint seemed reasonably smooth and clean. I know that's not an accurate measure to verify how clean a surface is.

As I had a bit of free time, I decided to go over each panel to knock the swirls out. Most of them have been removed and the paint does look great. So, the reason I did a decontamination a few days ago is because I wanted to remove my old LSP before the application of Double Speed Wax.

To answer a few more questions, the IPA mix was applied after the car had been dried. IPA was applied as a final measure to ensure the surface was clean. The MF towel felt grabby and so did the wax applicator.

So, if the clear coat is softer, leaving it alone will sort that out I assume?
And if it's a film left by AG Tar, will it evaporate off, even though I've applied DSW on top?
Will it wash off even though I've applied DSW on top?
If I spray IPA 25% onto a panel liberally and leave it for 30 seconds before wiping off, can this burn or eat the surface of the clear coat, leaving behind little spots or blemishes similar to that of solvent pop?
Can AG Tar Rem. soften a clear coat?
With the MF towel and foam Wax applicator feeling very grabby, could this have caused any swirls or marring onto the highly clean possibly softened paint?

Sorry for all the questions and I hope to hear from you all soon. Thank you once again for the continued support.

Last edited by BradleyW; 03-06-2018 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 03-06-2018, 03:14 AM   #18
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I can answer the one about 25% IPA. No it will not cause any problems even if left longer than 30 seconds. It possibly will effect wax, but not clear coat paint.

If you want to check your paint surface for contamination use the “baggie” test. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich type bag and gently rub your paint surface. You will feel any contamination in your paint this way.
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000 View Post
I can answer the one about 25% IPA. No it will not cause any problems even if left longer than 30 seconds. It possibly will effect wax, but not clear coat paint.

If you want to check your paint surface for contamination use the “baggie” test. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich type bag and gently rub your paint surface. You will feel any contamination in your paint this way.
Great stuff, thank you.

I'll give the car a very mild wash with DoDo Juice BTBM at some point. Sadly the Double Speed Wax has left a cloudy film on top of the paint. It'll wipe away, but returns the next day. I followed the application instructions. Applied using the provided foam application (damp), very thin layer applied and left to cure for 7-8 minutes before buffing.

A part of me would like to clay, polish and protect. However, I'm worried about how much paint I have left! Upon initial correction, the car received 6 full sets of 10 passes, Hex Orange with Scholl S17+, medium pressure, DAS6 (speed 5). Then 3 sets of 8 passes using Scholl S30, Hex White, Speed 4, light pressure.

So much was required as some defects took a lot of work to remove and some mistakes were made after initial correction which required more correction.

Last edited by BradleyW; 04-06-2018 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 04-06-2018, 05:17 AM   #20
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Surely a proper wash, clay and pre wax cleanser won’t do any damage. Then re apply your LSP. Try a pre wax cleaner like BH Cleanser Fluid or DJ Lime Prime Lite.
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