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Old 29-11-2018, 11:27 AM   #1
camerashy
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TexTar Cera Tec v Corrosion Block

I have both of these for when I take my wheels off is any one better than the other please.
Am I right in thinking that they are both better than Copper Grease.
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Old 29-11-2018, 11:36 AM   #2
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I've found Ceratec very weak at stopping corrosion.
Copper Grease is much better in my opinion.
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Old 29-11-2018, 11:39 AM   #3
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Oh I’m old school - use a thin smear of copper grease and no issues - sorry can’t help with your choice bud
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Old 29-11-2018, 12:50 PM   #4
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Ive stoped using copper grase in favour of

Creamic grease by CeraTec, I use it every time for bolts and remounting wheels on the HUB,

NEVER use copper grease as it causes galvanic corroision

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...oaAsupEALw_wcB
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Old 29-11-2018, 02:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rian View Post
Ive stoped using copper grase in favour of

Creamic grease by CeraTec, I use it every time for bolts and remounting wheels on the HUB,

NEVER use copper grease as it causes galvanic corroision
]
Do you apply it to your wheel bolts as well?
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Old 29-11-2018, 06:57 PM   #6
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CeraTec is great on wheel hubs. Used it a lot when swapping from winter to summer wheels and vice versa.

There are many schools of thought on lubing wheel nuts/studs/bolts, but if you give them a good clean and small smear of lube e.g. optimoly / CeraTec then you should be fine.
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Old 29-11-2018, 07:26 PM   #7
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I used Ceratec for the BMW Dave when I was swapping between the summer and winter wheels and found it bob on.
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Old 29-11-2018, 10:22 PM   #8
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I'm a fan of Corrosion Block grease (and ACF50 fluid) after many years of motorcycling.

For me, Corrosion Block is used where there's different metal to metal contact e.g. alloys to hub.

I use Ceratek on the back of pads (if needed - some have a "backing" bonded to the steel plate).

Wheel nuts/bolts have a squirt of engine/gearbox oil.

On Slider pins I use whatever is specified - if you can find out! For some cars it's moly grease, some it's lithium, some it's red rubber grease...... I guess Ceratek would generally be OK?

On most of my "problem" calipers it's been corrosion on the slide pins &/or lack of lube on the pins that's been causing the issues. That and garages just ramming the pads in and then wondering why the brakes are not coming off properly!

I, like many, have used copper grease for decades but I this is no longer recommended. I think there's a problem with the copper causing some damage to the ABS (?) sensors?

Looking forward to hearing more thoughts & suggestions.

Andy

PS. It's not as simple as you might think........

https://textar-professional.com/text...modern-brakes/

https://proslip.com/ceratec-brake-grease-what-is-it/

Last edited by AndyN01; 29-11-2018 at 10:36 PM. Reason: web links
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Old 03-12-2018, 02:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyN01 View Post
I'm a fan of Corrosion Block grease (and ACF50 fluid) after many years of motorcycling.

For me, Corrosion Block is used where there's different metal to metal contact e.g. alloys to hub.

I use Ceratek on the back of pads (if needed - some have a "backing" bonded to the steel plate).

Wheel nuts/bolts have a squirt of engine/gearbox oil.

On Slider pins I use whatever is specified - if you can find out! For some cars it's moly grease, some it's lithium, some it's red rubber grease...... I guess Ceratek would generally be OK?

On most of my "problem" calipers it's been corrosion on the slide pins &/or lack of lube on the pins that's been causing the issues. That and garages just ramming the pads in and then wondering why the brakes are not coming off properly!

I, like many, have used copper grease for decades but I this is no longer recommended. I think there's a problem with the copper causing some damage to the ABS (?) sensors?

Looking forward to hearing more thoughts & suggestions.

Andy

PS. It's not as simple as you might think........

https://textar-professional.com/text...modern-brakes/

https://proslip.com/ceratec-brake-grease-what-is-it/
Been looking on http://www.acf-50.co.uk/marine.htm and corosion block it seams is not designed to be used in the manor your referring to.

Ceramic grease should be used in metal to metal contact its superior to moly grease, lithium, and red rubber grease and is safe for all applications as the frictions reducing material is a ceramic and therefore inert.

Lithium is a metal and can aid in galvanic corrosion not as bad as copper grease.

The ceramic grease has a higher melting point and therefore it makes sense to use it on hubs, wheel bolts etc.

I use it on just about anything when redoing a bolt up or mounting a wheel
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Old 04-12-2018, 12:01 PM   #10
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Thanks.

Maybe I've misunderstood.

From the website:

".....Corrosion Block – Is the Industrial / Marine version of ACF-50. The main difference being a marginally thicker film and better suited where there may be dissimilar metals (my highlighting) and / or salt water spray – so more suitable for Automotive/Marine/Industrial use...."

Hence I thought it ideal for the mating face between alloy wheels & steel hubs.

Regards,

Andy.

Last edited by AndyN01; 04-12-2018 at 12:05 PM.
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