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Old 09-10-2018, 02:11 PM   #21
A&J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yulser View Post
bla bla bla

In anyone's opinion did I not apply this right ? Should I have used Gyeon prep instead of bilt hamber paint cleanser ?

I used the paint cleanser then machine polish and then paint cleanser again followed with a diluted IPA wipe down > then can coat

I'd appreciate any opinions ........please
Did you use cleanser polish or cleanser fluid? If you used cleanser polish then there is your problem...its a paint cleaner/glaze type product onto which can coat wont bond properly...if you used cleanser fluid then you should be good.
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:28 PM   #22
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Also anyone know how long I should leave this before first wash after applying coating ?

cheers
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:30 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A&J View Post
Did you use cleanser polish or cleanser fluid? If you used cleanser polish then there is your problem...its a paint cleaner/glaze type product onto which can coat wont bond properly...if you used cleanser fluid then you should be good.
no I used the cleanser fluid spray on in silver tin

cheers
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:38 PM   #24
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You mention that the beading is not any better than wetcoat, and to a point I agree. Wetcoat in itself is a very good beading product and few things will significantly better it.
However, what you should see is much improved longevity relative to Wetcoat, typically lasting 6+months in real world conditions as opposed to 2 (give or take) with Wetcoat. It is the longevity that would be my main reason for using Cancoat rather than Wetcoat
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:49 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Sparkycasual View Post
You mention that the beading is not any better than wetcoat, and to a point I agree. Wetcoat in itself is a very good beading product and few things will significantly better it.
However, what you should see is much improved longevity relative to Wetcoat, typically lasting 6+months in real world conditions as opposed to 2 (give or take) with Wetcoat. It is the longevity that would be my main reason for using Cancoat rather than Wetcoat
cheers mate ,
I've just ordered a bottle of cure. going to apply this at the weekend

Any idea how long I should leave it prior to washing ?

I normally use Bilt hamber snow foam and then wash with GYEON Q˛M BATHE ESSENCE
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:54 PM   #26
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I think if you leave it a week you should be fine.
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:50 PM   #27
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Cancoat is so versatile you can even apply it over wet car. Just google it, a user on a usa forum that I'm on has posted his experiment on youtube.

I find it best applied via ufo applicator/ coating block, criss cross pattern, just like you would do a coating.

You cant go wrong with this product. Find something that you like and use it often (taken from someone else)

Cheers

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Old 10-10-2018, 08:28 AM   #28
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And how’s the can coat on trim, rubbers and glass? Anyone have direct experience?
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Old 11-10-2018, 05:34 PM   #29
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And how’s the can coat on trim, rubbers and glass? Anyone have direct experience?
seems to be fine on plastic trim.

I have to say though I have really bad high spots that have not buffed off well on the bonnet so be aware. It seems to be only noticeable on the bonnet after gently drying the car with the gyeon drying towel which is excellent BTW.

I plan to remove and redo the bonnet at the weekend.

On the plus side the side panels are excellent and gloss is really good !
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:07 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by yulser View Post
seems to be fine on plastic trim.



I have to say though I have really bad high spots that have not buffed off well on the bonnet so be aware. It seems to be only noticeable on the bonnet after gently drying the car with the gyeon drying towel which is excellent BTW.



I plan to remove and redo the bonnet at the weekend.



On the plus side the side panels are excellent and gloss is really good !


Do you know why the high spots occurred?
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