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Projects and Restorations Building a car from scratch, restoring your pride and joy, building a track car, or starting a long term project? This is your place to document it.

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Old 23-03-2018, 05:48 PM   #61
Henry_b
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Looks Rad M8!!

I love the Cooper S.

Maybe i'll get one when the insurance isn't astronomical!

Only 17 lol
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Old 23-03-2018, 07:58 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexjb View Post
Nice Mini - dont see too many Checkmates around.

Here is mine - Factory John Cooper Works





Best of luck with your project!
I don't normally quote with pictures but, I have to call out when people say they have a Factory JCW. As an owner of one, it grinds me gears lol! It may be an official kit from Mini but the demarcation of the S on the vent shows this is a body kit. Plus the FJCW is just that, no Checkmates, Camdens etc. What you have there is a Cooper S Checkmate with some JCW badges!
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Old 23-03-2018, 08:22 PM   #63
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How rude! Ive seen plenty of checkmate jcws for sale!


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Old 24-03-2018, 08:33 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isctony View Post
I don't normally quote with pictures but, I have to call out when people say they have a Factory JCW. As an owner of one, it grinds me gears lol! It may be an official kit from Mini but the demarcation of the S on the vent shows this is a body kit. Plus the FJCW is just that, no Checkmates, Camdens etc. What you have there is a Cooper S Checkmate with some JCW badges!
The JCW kit could be ordered with the car if you so wished.

That is a genuine car.
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Old 24-03-2018, 08:47 PM   #65
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One of the only ways to tell it is a pucker JCW, this is R53’s only so pre-2006, is with the factory certificate, as the logbook will say Cooper-S. R56’s and up were factory fit JCW’s but R53 were sent away to have it fit.
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Old 24-03-2018, 08:49 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluechimp View Post
One of the only ways to tell it is a pucker JCW, this is R53s only so pre-2006, is with the factory certificate, as the logbook will say Cooper-S. R56s and up were factory fit JCWs but R53 were sent away to have it fit.
The valvecover will also have a sticker on it.

Denoting the Kit number.
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Old 24-03-2018, 09:39 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry_b View Post
The valvecover will also have a sticker on it.

Denoting the Kit number.
Also correct, one of the other methods. That reminds me, I am going to refurb mine to make it readable!
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Old 24-03-2018, 10:03 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluechimp View Post
Also correct, one of the other methods. That reminds me, I am going to refurb mine to make it readable!
Same here lol i've gotta do mine some day!

except i don't have JCW its just MINI
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Old 26-03-2018, 12:33 AM   #69
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Previously, I had had trouble getting the old numberplate screws out as they sheared off, and so had made a temporary fix to get the numberplate back on by using some plastic fixings that came in the glovebox of my first Mercedes, (a great car that I did a thread on previously http://www.detailingworld.com/forum/....php?p=5104963)

It was now time to sort things properly. I had always intended to replace the numberplates as they were old and normally I'd go to my local dealer but they wanted 35 for a set and I didn't really like them. Then somebody in one of the Mini Facebook groups posted a photo of some plates made up to resemble original factory plates from a company called DMB Graphics. I got in touch, sent some paperwork, paid my 25 plus postage and got a lovely set of plates in return. Meanwhile I'd been to BMW to get replacement inserts for the numberplate panel and to Ebay for a set of coloured numberplate screws, resulting in all of this:



Also, while researching Checkmate models since buying mine I'd noticed that they all had a body coloured boot release trim, whereas mine was chrome and so had presumably been replaced previously, probably due to the numberplate lights which have appeared as an issue on a lot of previous MOTs. It's dated 2007 so definitely not original. So I got in touch with one of the Mini breakers and soon I've got a boot release trim to fit, in the correct Space Blue:



With some time today I crack on with getting all this fitted and here's where I am starting from:



Two years ago I bought a set of TX 1/4 drive bits and I'm pleased to say they continue to get a decent amount of use, as seen here.



And this is the state of the rust beneath. No worse than I was expecting to be fair.



Surprisingly there's a lot of tar on this rear panel, even behind where the original numberplate would have been, so some de-tarring seems sensible. I've previously used Tardis but today it's the chance to use some of this:



After few minutes dwell time, here's what I have:



With the tar all gone I figure I might as well go over with a clay bar, especially given how bad the rear glass was. Not surprisingly the paintwork wasn't any better, this being from one half of the rear:



Having gone this far, I decided it can't do any harm to run the rotary over it and with the results I achieved last weekend I stuck with Lime Prime on a Sonus white pad. Once done, I fitted up the boot handle, drilled the new numberplate and fitted the new screws to leave this:





I then remembered that I'd removed the inner boot trim panel when trying to remove the old numberplate so gave that a clean with some APC:



And fitted that back up to the inside. I'm delighted to say no clips got broken and it was all very easy.



Moving on to the front, here's how it was:



These numberplate screws came out no problem, which left me this following a go over with APC. I need to address the plinth screws in future though, clearly.



And, once I'd measured twice and drilled once, I've got this:



Finally, I attend to a small job I'd raised earlier on in the thread, that being a slight leak of power steering fluid from the reservoir, something I have previously experienced on BMWs:



Normally I find that BMW parts prices aren't too bad but this new O-ring was a little over 4 which seems exploitative given it's presumably a totally industry standard part. Anyway, old one removed:



I also clean up the area so I can see if there the leak continues after this change:



So, nothing ground breaking but it's nice to get new plates on and I like that I am returning the car a little closer to OEM with the rear boot handle. Shame about that rust though.

Last edited by James_G; 24-05-2018 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 14-04-2018, 01:19 PM   #70
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I'm loving all the mini threads lately especially yours and jbenekeorr. I enjoyed reading them so much I went out and bought a R56 cooper with JCW bodykit. Would have gone for the cooper s but the wife will also using it.lol Keep up with the good work and posts
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