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Old 07-11-2017, 12:26 PM   #11
Venkman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookies View Post
Try and get your hands on some Autosmart Tardis. Soak a make-up pad with it, and leave on the residue. It may take some time to take effect, just keep checking it.

In any case, go gently. You don't want to damage your boot lid and have to get it painted.

I hope you get sorted.

Cooks


I did exactly this and it worked after 3-4 hits. There was a tiny amount of glue/foam left so heated carefully with heat gun and hand technique (if too hot for your hand, it’s too hot for paint) then pulled the final bits off using blutak.


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Old 07-11-2017, 10:19 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the advice guys, I've never had issues in the past and tbh I've usually soaked a bit of tar and glue remover, used my pressure washer at an angle to blast the badges and most of the glue off then remove the rest with more T&G remover. I had actually reached the end of daylight by the time I'd tried petrol with this, I didn't think heat would be too conducive with it being absolutely rock solid but I shall give it a go next time. A hairdrier and a bit of patience will serve me well I hope.

I didn't have any tardis to hand which is normally my go to T&G remover as I find it is absolutely savage to most things bonded to the paint so if the heat is struggling I'll have to order some in and try that.

All failing I will try the Eraser wheel method thank you.

I didn't want to try a blade, wet and dry or de nibber as I would probably end up really gouging/damaging the paintwork knowing my luck! Honestly this stuff is spikey and harder than nails, pics don't do it justice! I will try to have a go at it this weekend with some heat and shall report back, thank you guys
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Old 23-11-2017, 01:50 PM   #13
20vKarlos
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AutoSmart JelSol eats this stuff for fun!

Try it out at like £5 a can it's worth having in the arsenal too

Edit - after looking at the picture again there isn't much in the way of rubber remaining... I think wet and dry is the best option should you have a machine to polish it up with after
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Old 23-11-2017, 02:05 PM   #14
BrummyPete
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I've just took my badges off my V40 and it's was really easy to take off, in fact the easiest ones on any car I've owned, either they have used a different process on the older cars or someone has re stuck them on with some type of glue

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Old 23-11-2017, 03:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrummyPete View Post
...or someone has re stuck them on with some type of glue
I suspect this is where the difficulty lies, 3M tape and the like should be easy shifted with the methods already mentioned - personally I'd reach for the caramel wheel but a bodyshop de-nibber might be in order if it's been glued



Or superglue debonder if that's what's been used?

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Old 03-12-2017, 05:40 PM   #16
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After all the suggestions I finally got time to have a go about 2 weeks ago. I tried hairdrier as no heat gun, no joy at all. I tried more T&G remover on make up pads soaked on, again no joy. Yesterday I decided to say f*** it and wet sand it. I've never used sandpaper on finished paint before, years ago I had some experience on a crashed motorbike doing a bit of fillering and rattle canning but I just decided to use the knowledge I've gained on here to help me out!

Taped off the light and set to work with 2000 grit well lubricated with water and washing up liquid. I tried to keep pressure even using a sanding block and it actually took quite a while to get through the glue so god knows what had been used!

Ended up with this on both sides, looked scary and uneven so was actually worried at this stage





Then went to get the machine out only to remember I actually needed to order more orange pads and only had green pads left Used M105 and after one pass you could still see marks quite a lot, decided to hit it again and used increased pressure and it came good! Excuse the residue I hadn't wiped properly just enough to see the results:



If you look very closely under certain light conditions you can still faintly see the bits where it looks deeper on the initial sanding pics but you have to try really hard and come summer this will be addressed with the correct pads and equipment

Topped back up with Sonax BSD to match the rest of the car and was very happy till I discovered someone must have opened their door a bit hard:



as that crack wasnt there 2 nights ago when I was changing the side marker bulb!

Second hand one at £25 on ebay so that will get ordered but it's very annoying!
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Old 03-12-2017, 05:41 PM   #17
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Also please ignore my grey trim, used PERL neat and it didnt even tint it, some solution finish is necessary I think!
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:00 PM   #18
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It almost looks like you’ve gone through the clearcoat in two places in the first picture!
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Old 04-12-2017, 01:59 PM   #19
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It almost looks like you’ve gone through the clearcoat in two places in the first picture!

Yeah it looks odd but it polished up fine with no colour transfer or anything else indicative of lacquer removal, still odd but this was my first go at wet sanding and I jumped in at the deep end so it could've gone much worse
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Old 04-12-2017, 02:02 PM   #20
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I don't know what the finish is like on Volvos but you're going to have to do the rest of the car now to match the orange peel free patch on the boot!

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