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Old 28-12-2017, 10:29 AM   #11
camerashy
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Interesting thread here.....thanks.
So which one is recommended silicone grease or ACF corrosion block
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Old 28-12-2017, 11:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caledoniandream View Post
The best way is to use silicon grease on the hub nose and a light smear on the mating faces.
Preferably no copper grease / copaslip as you add another metal and increase galvanic corrosion.
Good silicon grease is more than enough heat resistant (if you are not driving a race car with red glowing brake disc's

Copper grease or copaslip should be only used for steel on steel or cars iron on cast iron as the influence of galvanic corrosion will be negligible.
Great shout that pal as I applied a thin slither of Copperslip to my hubs on a brand new car in March this year and found the rears were stuck when I came to change over my wheels to the winters a few weeks ago.

I cleaned up the hubs and reapplied the Copperslip again,now causing the same issue as before I see now after reading this.

Thankfully, these wheels will be off again shortly so I'll obtain some silicone grease prior to that and use that in future.
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Old 28-12-2017, 12:05 PM   #13
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Also worth getting a dead blow hammer should you encounter any problems in the future
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Old 28-12-2017, 12:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
The next old debate is lubing wheel stud/bolts. Some old boys used a bit of copper slip here too, for years and had no problems. Problem being though is that the recommended torque setting is a dry setting. The use of a lube here magnifies this.Well it would wouldn't it, you just added a lube.
I used to own a MG Midget with rostyle wheels. As soon as the steel bolt touched the alloy it would lock. It didn't matter how much force was applied the bolts would not move.
Unfortunately it also meant they came undone whilst driving.

They needed some lubrication to allow the steel to slip against the alloy.

On my current car I just leave two bolts in on the last few threads and hit the inside of the tyre with a rubber mallet.

Recommendation please for the silicone grease you are using?
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Old 28-12-2017, 06:39 PM   #15
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I would imagine cerratex grease designed to lubricate the edges of brake pads to stop them sticking in the calipers would be ideal on hubs. It's designed to resist high temperatures and prevent corrosion between the steel pad backplates and cast and alloy calipers.
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Old 28-12-2017, 07:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy View Post
I used to own a MG Midget with rostyle wheels. As soon as the steel bolt touched the alloy it would lock. It didn't matter how much force was applied the bolts would not move.
Unfortunately it also meant they came undone whilst driving.

They needed some lubrication to allow the steel to slip against the alloy.

On my current car I just leave two bolts in on the last few threads and hit the inside of the tyre with a rubber mallet.

Recommendation please for the silicone grease you are using?
I use Liqui moly silicon fett, plenty places to get from, eBay , and many car electricians.
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Old 28-12-2017, 08:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Gaffa22 View Post
I agree with Caledonian copper slip is old hat and designed for steel.
It can react with some alloys and cause oxidation so why risk it when there are much better greases available.
ACF Corrosion block would be a far better option
Nippy Norman's stock ACF grease. Free postage if you order before 01 Jan.
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Old 28-12-2017, 08:42 PM   #18
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how do you apply this - with a brush?
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Old 28-12-2017, 08:44 PM   #19
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It's the same if you have brembo calipers. Stainless pins in aluminium calipers they corrode together. Silicone is waterproof where as copper grease isn't
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Old 29-12-2017, 10:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirdif64 View Post
Nippy Norman's stock ACF grease. Free postage if you order before 01 Jan.
Thanks just ordered
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