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Old 03-03-2018, 10:03 PM   #1
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Evening All,
New to the detailing scene but I have been doing a fair bit of reading and watching in the months before joining. (Even watched Junkman's videos, even though I hope to never correct anything) The long and short of it is that I have my dream motor sat on the drive in a nice metallic black and I want to keep it looking good and prevent the dreaded swirls whilst adding a nice water bead. In reality I am never going to have a show car finish as it is a daily driver and I have zero experience so trying to keep it simple....

I have spent a bit of money on some basics as I didn't have anything, the majority based on opinion from DW. Even then it is a minefield with all the products out there but thanks for your input! On reflection, I have purchased a few things that I don't even know what I am doing with so I hope you all don't mind helping me out some more

The car currently has no protection on it and is full of shed loads of salt so I will probably snow foam it twice just to make sure I get as much of it off as possible. Not sure if it makes matters any better though?

I have BH double speed but I am really worried about using a clay bar/mitt and getting marring. Will I cause paint damage by attempting to wax without claying first? I understanding what claying removes but I don't know how much of a difference it makes to the finish etc. On top of that I don't have a fallout remover either but I do have BH auto wheel if that could be used if I need something before waxing?

Also purchased BSD (mainly due to it being so cheap and DW seems to love it) but honestly have no idea what I do with it

Thanks in advance and I apologise for the long post!
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Old 03-03-2018, 10:39 PM   #2
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Hello mate. Welcome to the forum.

As far as I know you won't harm the paint by waxing without claying it. The claying will make it feel smoother and more glass like.

The BSD is a brilliant product imho. A spray per panel and wipe and polish off. Amazing beading and helps keep the paintwork clean. Use on top of wax or even instead of wax if in a rush.
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:13 PM   #3
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You going down the right road, for your car though with no protection on it you need to get as much as that off as you can before reaching for you buckets and wash media, so with out any protection I wouldn’t be to worried about using a good pre wash, anything citrus based or even and apc, like Koch Cherie green star, or powermaxed tfr, a couple of hits with that followed by your foam and rinse should remove most of the surface dirt, just remember when you put pad/mitt or what ever you have to the car don’t go at it hell for leather and try cover 2-3 panels between each dunk in the bucket. If it means you use a little more water and soap than usual ide be prepared to wash and rinse the wash media every half a panel, just pending on the condition after your initial treatments. After this is completed if you have tar remover and a fall out remover of sorts this would be the time to apply however if you havnt a clay bar will remove these contaminants but the more contamination there is the more you need to stop and continually knead the clay to keep contaminates from the surface of your paintwork.
Using a clay bar is not as scary as you think, use plenty of lube, some use just a high concentration of soapy water, some use a dedicated clay bar lube or a detailing spray. Simple pointers to remember :
1, know which clay grade you have, fine (soft), medium or hard (aggressive). This may help you decide
2, don’t drop it.
3, knead the clay in your hand for several minutes to warm it up and make it warm and soft. The harder and colder it is the longer it will take.
4, plenty of lube on the panel in small areas at a time, don’t let it run over a dry section.
5, you want the clay to work for you, so put on the panel and with 3-4 fingers holding it, swipe it back and forth over the area applying just enough pressure to keep it flat against the panel, if you find your putting deep finger impressions into it, I would say too much pressure.
6, check the clay often, if it’s going black or has visible signs of surface contamination, keep kneading it to keep it clean, also run your finger tips over the area just clayed as you can feel straight away the improvements, sometimes you can hear at first as you begin you can hear the clay pick up the particles then after a swipe or two it’s silent.
7, once you have completed the area, use a soft buffing cloth to remove the lube residue.

You should find after this step your paintwork will feel like glass and then ready for your polishing or if you so wish straight onto your wax. Remember preparation is the key, don’t be expecting to get this all done in an hour or so, I’m used to it and this takes me 3-4 hours. The better the surface the better the chances are your protection will last.

BSD is good stuff, 2 ways you can use it, mostly its used after the wash and dry stage, you apply a few sprays on to a panel and wiping over with a mf cloth to give an even covering, then a buffing cloth to remove the residue to leave a glossy protection. If over used I personally find it grabby when trying to buff off with a fluffy towel so I use another mf cloth but I’m careful not to apply pressure at this point to avoid marring. Some use it directly as drying aid and apply it to the wet panel and it helps lube your drying towel as you dry each panel as drying can also cause marring (it’s down to your personal technique) and then buff off afterwards.

Last edited by DLGWRX02; 03-03-2018 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:50 AM   #4
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Thanks for the welcome and response guys.

I have BH Surfex HD that I am planning to use either with or after the snow foam. It seems to be a hot topic if it can be used on paintwork but I found a thread where BH have said it is good to do so with the right dilution and I have no protection to worry about stripping anyway.

Thanks for the clay bar and BSD info, I think I will do a trial run on the OH's car
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Old 04-03-2018, 12:18 PM   #5
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I tried claying for the first time recently as I'm a complete novice, it left the paint feeling like glass! The difference was astounding. If you're worried about damage, you could do what I did and practice on a scrap panel first, you'll be surprised at how much dirt comes of a supposedly clean panel!. There's a common tip on this forum that basically says 'the finish is all in the prep work' and I find it hard to argue with.

Good luck.

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Old 05-03-2018, 08:29 AM   #6
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welcome along to the forum
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Old 05-03-2018, 11:46 AM   #7
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Snow-foaming the car twice and then going into a contact wash should be safe enough in theory. As has been said, just don't try and rush your contact wash. Make sure you have plenty of suds in your wash bucket. Warm water will help cut through the dirt. Make sure you rinse your mitt at least after each panel(if you can use both sides of the mitt for a single panel) or even every half panel if you want to be super safe.

With regards to BH Surfex, it'd probably be good use use some of that mixed into your snow foam bottle on the 1st snow foam, then on the second pass just use plain snowfoam.

You have BH auto-wheel which is a fallout remover. it's marketed for wheels but has been confirmed by BH to be paint-safe. You can use it neat all over the car safely, but on paint you can make it more economical by mixing it 50/50 with DI water and it'll still do it's job admirably. You should use this after your contact wash and before you clay. When you put this on the paint, you can get the most from it by drying your car first, as it'll cling to dry paint longer. After giving it 5-10 minutes to do it's job, you can rinse the car down and leave it wet ready to start claying.

Lots of good advice already given about claying so apologies if any of the following is a repeat:
1. soak your clay in some good hot water before kneading the heck out of it! You want it as pliable as possible before you start using it on your paint.
2. have a clean sandwich bag or similar ready to store it in when you're finished(DO NOT USE CLING FILM!)
3. Use plenty of lubrication and you'll be very unlikely to marr your paint. I like to use the water from my wash bucket as lube but you can use QD spray or even plain water just as safely. Best bet is just have your lube in a spray bottle and just keep spraying the area you are claying. Never let the clay touch a dry part of a panel.
4. Knead your clay after every panel until you have a clean piece of clay surface to carry on. If your whole clay bar becomes dirty and won't clean when you knead it, get a new piece of clay.
5. If you drop the piece of clay on the floor, it goes immediately in the bin and you get a fresh piece out of the box, no discussion.
6. Run the clay over the panel with no more pressure than you would a final wipe with a MF towel. The clay will do all the work, you just need enough pressure to keep it from falling off the paint into the floor.
7. You don't need to keep going over a single area with the clay, a single wipe left and right across one line of paint will be more than enough to grab any contaminants. going back and fore repeatedly will just increase your chances of running out of lube and marring the paint.
8. Always use clay in straight lines only, in line with the shape of the bodywork, never in circles(This actually applies to pretty much any time you touch the paint with anything)

Once you've clayed, your paint should feel smooth as silk and it'll be ready for wax. At this point, the paint is probably clean of any previous protection/product but if you're able, going around the car giving each panel a spritz of 50/50 IPA/DI and lightly buffing it off should allow your wax to make best possible contact with the paint without any residues getting in the way. If you were putting a sealant on the car first(a good idea for longer-term protection), the IPA wipe is almost mandatory as sealant needs to create a solid chemical bond to the paint which a wax doesn't.

BH Double-speed is a great wax and really durable. Don't try and apply too much in a single coat though or that durability starts to work against you and it'll be a real pain to buff off. Two light coats will be far more durable/easy to apply than one thick coat.

BSD will give you some great water beading(made even better if you have silky smooth paint after claying). It can be a little grabby when applying it, so most people seem to dilute it down with another QD spray of your choice. This has the benefit of making BSD go on easier and also giving extra gloss from the QD spray. If you don't want to mix it with a bit of QD(75 BSD/25 QD ish) you can do the same with just DI water to help it glide a little better.

As others have said, doing this kind of deep clean isn't fast, and will take you a good few hours, particularly since you've not got an established routine in your head. Ideally you'd get it all done in a day sure, but if you find you need to split it up, you could easily stop after claying the car down and then restart the next day. all you'd then need to do is give the car a quick contact wash and dry before going on to apply the wax and BSD. The important thing is it's always best to take your time and if you're not sure about something at any stage, you can always put a quick post on DW to ask for help.

Good luck buddy and welcome to the forum! Make sure you get some photos up of your pride and joy after the wash!
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Old 05-03-2018, 12:30 PM   #8
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Lots of good stuff for you to look into so don’t want to repeat what the other guys have said, but just don’t worry about claying if you are only going to wax. It’s definitely worth doing and will make a noticeable difference, but if you don’t feel like tackling it yet then don’t sweat it.

Look at it this way, you understand the effect of clay and what it does, so you would normally clay before a machine polish because the abrasive polish and the friction of the pad would dislodge and pick up those nasties that the clay would otherwise have removed and then grind them in to the paint and cause more harm than good. Wax has no abrasives and application uses far less friction, so just waxing the car without claying it won’t hurt at all because you won’t be picking up anything that is stuck hard into the paint. Basically all of the stuff that we use clay to pull off the paint, wax won’t even touch. A good wash routine is essential to get as clean a surface to work on as possible, and pre-wax cleaner would be a sensible insurance policy if you’re not going to clay, but other than that, wax away, and welcome!
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Old 05-03-2018, 12:58 PM   #9
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Without sounding stuupid, what is BSD?
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Old 05-03-2018, 01:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by lijongtao View Post
Without sounding stuupid, what is BSD?
Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer
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