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Gyeon can coat question

26K views 45 replies 20 participants last post by  Kenan 
#1 ·
Hi,

Anyone used Gyeon can coat ? I'm sue there must be a few.

Durability aside is there any improvement on hydrophobic , gloss and self cleaning ability over the wet coat .

My car paint is swirl free and normally has a decent coat of wax CG Pete53 or similar. Not brave enough to apply a full ceramic coating outdoors as I don't have a garage or ability to work indoors.

Been using wet coat after the odd wash to extend wax life and increase hydrophobic effect.

cheers
 
#4 ·
I was very interested in can coat aswell. but I get the impression you really wanna treat it like any other coating. ie extended curing time, need to be left indoors for a while afterwards.

you may be best sticking with wet coat, cos youll get months of protection, and it really does have similar gloss and self cleaning ability. and youll not get maring resistantance without going for one of the more traditional coatings, with a bit of thickness to them.

wet coat and can coat are really only atoms thick on your paintwork.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have Can Coat on my daily driver and would say it has the slight edge in water behaviour over Wet Coat. I've found that in the 2 months it's been on the car stays a little cleaner plus the longevity is in another league. I maintain it with Cure and Wet Coat. I applied Cure after the first month and Wet Coat after the second and will continue like this. The water behaviour never ceases to amaze me each time I wash the car!
Can Coat is very easy to apply and they recommend not getting it wet for 12 hours if memory serves.
This may be handy:
 
#6 ·
I’ve used Can Coat quite a lot and much prefer to use this rather than Wet Coat. Gives a much better finish and performs better than Wet Coat. 2 coats, an hour apart, and it will last for nearly a year. You could use Wet Coat Maybe once a month or every couple of months but I prefer to use Cure as a drying aid, diluted 1:1, and that keeps it topped up and performing.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for the feed back ,

TBH I'd love to try can coat as I am trully amazed at what wet coat does but I have no garage facilities and thsi is my only concern.

Has anyone applied this outdoors and left for 12 hours without issue ? Obviously I'd check the weather forecast to ensure it's not going to rain.

I'm just concerned about general fall out and dust resting on the coating while it cures.

thanks again to everyone who has replied - very helpful feedback :thumb:
 
#8 ·
Thank you for the feed back ,

TBH I'd love to try can coat as I am trully amazed at what wet coat does but I have no garage facilities and thsi is my only concern.

Has anyone applied this outdoors and left for 12 hours without issue ? Obviously I'd check the weather forecast to ensure it's not going to rain.

I'm just concerned about general fall out and dust resting on the coating while it cures.

thanks again to everyone who has replied - very helpful feedback :thumb:
Mine was all done in the driveway - that's why I went with Can Coat over a full on ceramic coating. It's very slick straight away and dust etc won't do any harm.
 
#11 ·
nice video, do have to say really impressed with every Gyeon product I've used. I remember applying my first paint coating to the Mini which was Prime which was very easy for something id never done previously. Its now been replaced with Pure but sure he said it can be a bit grabby upon wiping which would make me a little nervous again.
 
#13 ·
A bit late to the party but Ill add my 20c

First off prep work. As with any product its best to apply to a washed, deconed, clayed and polished surface. For polish you can use whatever you like. You can use the Gyeon primer but be aware it needs to cure for 12-24h before you apply Cancoat which is a waste of time in my world. If you want to use a primer product then use Carpro essence (3h cure time) or better yet TAC system primer (1h cure), but really any paint cleanser or abrassive polish will do just fine.

Application. Can not be simpler. Spray on the MF towel and wipe on the surface like using a QD, turn the towel to a dry side and remove immediately. Work in the shade. One bad thing IMO is that it does not leave a trace behind (if it does its not very noticible) so without proper lighting you can not tell where you applied it on the surface. Its like layering an invisible layer. You can layer it as much as you want as long as its 1h apart.

Beading & sheeting is awesome!

Durability...It lasted the entire winter without much issue. I havent really removed it yet but just topped it with OPT opti-seal and since the paint is super slick I dont entend to polish the car yet. Im also testing cancoat on my summer sets of wheels as we speak. 3 months in and they are still beading lilke mad. I washed them 2-3 times now.

Chemical resistance. Ive tested this a bit and sprayed on undiluted APC (around 12 ph), aggitated and rinsed. It had very little effect on the coating.

Problems I noticed. It clogges the sprayer so I suggest you rinse the sprayer after every use and after every layering. Heat up some water (or use APC or paint prep product) and pour it in a cup or a plastic cup and use that to remove product from the sprayer head. This will help but some dry product may still be left behind to clogg the sprayer head.

I have applied it outside with some issues on top panels (roof, hood) acting a bit worn off after a short period of time. Side panels were fine. Issue is its been applied in late fall with low temps and humid enviroment. It doesnt take long to cure (about 3h) but I still advise you do 2-3 coats on these panels and wait for warmer weather to do so or keep it in a garage if you can.

And yes its safe on plastic trim...just apply and wipe off same as on paint.

Hope it helps :wave:
 
#15 ·
Another fan of Can Coat here. Had it applied professionally on a brand new car. Lasted a good 6-8 months. Just reapplied it myself and very pleased with the results. Polish, panel wipe down and 2 coats with an hour in between then garaged overnight. I used 6 brand new micro fibre cloths to wipe off the excess.

I use the BSD/V07 mix as a LSP and the results are fantastic, never get any water spots at all.

One tin will do the car with 2 coats 3 or times so really economical too.
 

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#19 ·
Hi Guys,

Little question to pick in on the subject. I'm a Gyeon Cure user after every wash (like the glasslook it provides and slickness).

I want to put Sonax PNS under the Gyeon cure as sealant. The price difference between Cancoat 48.99€ and PNS 17€ is enough to doubt.

Is there a big difference in the look from cancoat and PNS if i use CURE every wash? Or will cure fix the grabbiness/look from the Sonax?

Thanks !!
 
#20 ·
update on can coat

hi

just thought I'd give an update on my experience with can coat.

Applied can coat at the weekend . Full paint cleanse and machine polish . I used Bilt hamber paint cleanser. Not sure if I should have splashed out on Gyeon prep. Anyway I then applied can coat . left 2 hrs and applied second coat .

I started applying with a MF applicator and then wipe off with supplied cloth. Not sure if this was putting too much product on or not but found this method difficult when removing. So I then changed to just using the supplied MF to apply.

This is my first experience with any coatings but found the product drying to paint very very quickly. Very grabby and difficult to remove. Was only applying to small sections of a panel at a time but found that by the time I turned round to change to a clean MF the product had became difficult to remove. After a lot of hard work I felt the finish was indeed excellent. Not as slick as wet coat but very good gloss. Noticeably better than WC in gloss.

Bad news is that about 15 hrs after applying it started to rain a little and 24 hrs after the second coat the rain got heavier. I was hoping for 24 hrs without rain to allow it to fully cure. :(

I relation to beeding. I honestly don't think it's any better than wet coat. Maybe I need to apply cure on top........surely the rain would not have washed this off or reduced the hydrophic ability after 15-20 hrs?

In anyone's opinion did I not apply this right ? Should I have used Gyeon prep instead of bilt hamber paint cleanser ?

I used the paint cleanser then machine polish and then paint cleanser again followed with a diluted IPA wipe down > then can coat

I'd appreciate any opinions ........please
 
#21 ·
bla bla bla

In anyone's opinion did I not apply this right ? Should I have used Gyeon prep instead of bilt hamber paint cleanser ?

I used the paint cleanser then machine polish and then paint cleanser again followed with a diluted IPA wipe down > then can coat

I'd appreciate any opinions ........please
Did you use cleanser polish or cleanser fluid? If you used cleanser polish then there is your problem...its a paint cleaner/glaze type product onto which can coat wont bond properly...if you used cleanser fluid then you should be good.
 
#24 ·
You mention that the beading is not any better than wetcoat, and to a point I agree. Wetcoat in itself is a very good beading product and few things will significantly better it.
However, what you should see is much improved longevity relative to Wetcoat, typically lasting 6+months in real world conditions as opposed to 2 (give or take) with Wetcoat. It is the longevity that would be my main reason for using Cancoat rather than Wetcoat
 
#27 ·
Cancoat is so versatile you can even apply it over wet car. Just google it, a user on a usa forum that I'm on has posted his experiment on youtube.

I find it best applied via ufo applicator/ coating block, criss cross pattern, just like you would do a coating.

You cant go wrong with this product. Find something that you like and use it often (taken from someone else)

Cheers

Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk
 
#29 ·
And how's the can coat on trim, rubbers and glass? Anyone have direct experience?
seems to be fine on plastic trim.

I have to say though I have really bad high spots that have not buffed off well on the bonnet so be aware. It seems to be only noticeable on the bonnet after gently drying the car with the gyeon drying towel which is excellent BTW.

I plan to remove and redo the bonnet at the weekend. :mad::confused:

On the plus side the side panels are excellent and gloss is really good !
 
#35 ·
What sort of prep did you do? Was this post correction?

I'm deciding between Can Coat and Moonlight right now and it keeps swinging between Can Coats slightly better gloss and durability and Moonlights ease of use.
yeah I did a fully clean with bilt hamber cleansing fluid then correction with DA and then another wipe down with BH cleanser and diluted IPA and then applied the Can coat

the gloss on the can coat is excellent and seems to be good . I just found it hard to work with but i think I am in the minority :confused:
 
#36 ·
yeah I did a fully clean with bilt hamber cleansing fluid then correction with DA and then another wipe down with BH cleanser and diluted IPA and then applied the Can coat

the gloss on the can coat is excellent and seems to be good . I just found it hard to work with but i think I am in the minority :confused:
A couple of people have mentioned it.

There's a clip from autogeek that covers can coat application. Worth a watch to see if your method was similar.

It'd be annoying if the product wasn't adaptable to method and temperatures. That would get a no from me.
 
#31 ·
I apply it with a clean mf cloth and then wipe residue with another clean mf cloth. I’ve not had any high spots with it. It’s good to use on all surfaces i believe. It will be ok to wash the car this weekend. I apply Cure the following day once Can Coat has had a chance to cure to stop water spotting.
 
#37 ·
Slight update,

Machine polished the bonnet on Sunday and reapplied the can coat using less product and used the MF cloth to apply instead of MF applicator .

I used the application MF more to almost apply & buff off too and then a final buff off on each section with the seocnd MF cloth. Practically zero high spots and was a lot easier , but TBH still a lot harder to work with than anything else I've ever used.

Used Gyeon cure on the rest of the car . That is a lot easier to use that the can coat and seemed like more of a detailer spray. I appreciate it's not as long lasting but all in all an excellent finish but just hard work. Going to leave the bonnet to cure more and then apply cure on the bonnet too.

From what I've read and heard I'll prob use TAC systems moonlight next time.

Thanks for all the input
 
#40 ·
That sounds interesting. Usually with any category of detailing product there will be trade offs between performance and usability.. that said there is a massive gap between Cure and Cancoat so plugging that gap can only be a positive thing.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 
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