Thread: Newbie advice
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Old 12-02-2018, 05:16 PM   #17
Washmitt Meister
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Originally Posted by dchapman88 View Post
So my basic routine would go

Pre wash and Foam
2BM wash
Rinse, dry
Tar and glue remover
Machine (compound/polish/glaze/cleaner) depending on what your trying to achieve
The above is a good overview of what you probably want to be doing to get that 'pop' you're looking for. As a relative newbie to all this myself, and in the vein of "use what you like and use it often" I might suggest the following:
  1. Pre-wash (Bilt Hamber Auto-Foam, used as foam through a PW lance or as a liquid through a simple garden sprayer)
  2. Rinse
  3. 2BM wash (Bilt Hamber Auto-Wash or Auto Finesse Lather. Both are simple shampoos without any gloss enhancers and have high dilution ratios so are quite economical. Keep this wash bucket for later in the process...)
  4. Rinse & Dry (Drying will help the fallout remover cling to the paint longer)
  5. Iron/Fallout removal (Bilt Hamber Auto-Wheel or BH Korrosol. These are basically the same product and both are paint safe so can be one product for two purposes)
  6. Rinse
  7. Tar removal (Auto Finesse ObliTARate)
  8. Rinse (leave the car wet)
  9. Clay (Bilt Hamber Soft Clay. The soft variety is easier to work and has the least chance or marring your paint. Should be all you need if your paintwork is already in okay condition. Now, if you choose, you can also use the water in your BH shampoo bucket as lubricant to clay the car. Alternatively, BH clay works absolutely fine with just clean water as lube)
  10. Rinse & Dry (You don't want to be using any drying aids during this process that add any kind of protection as you need naked paint for the polishing and sealant steps. )
  11. 'Polish' (If your paint is in okay condition and you're not trying to fix any major defects I'd go with something like Bilt Hamber Cleanser Polish as it'll clean your paint and fill in any small defects without any risk of removing clearcoat. This is where all the prep starts to pay off and you start seeing that 'pop')
  12. Sealant (AutoGlanz Synth-Seal. Really easy to apply, a little goes a long way and should get you a good 6 months of protection and a little gloss)
  13. Wax (Bilt Hamber Double-Speed wax. This'll give you that nice warm finishing gloss and some good beading action)

All the products listed I've had a good experience of and found them easy to work with as a beginner. There's a lot of BH in there I admit but I do have stuff from other brands that I've not mentioned.

You'll have to re-apply the wax maybe every 4-6 weeks depending on outside conditions and how much driving you do but the sealant underneath will just keep on trucking for 6 months so you're always protected.

After this whole process you can just get by with maintenance washes where you can use your drying aids to bring back the gloss & pop. If it's a wash where you're topping up the wax then I'd go without the drying aid.

If you do go chasing every last defect with your DA then you'd need cutting compounds. I've always found Megs M105/205 to work well on my car but I go gentle with it as my Honda Civic has very soft paint. You might find a diminishing compound from someone like Scholl is a little safer in case you get a bit over-excited and try to work the product too long.

Hope that is of some help to you. It's very much my own personal experience with my car and I'm sure others will have another view.

Other stuff in my kitbag:
- Chemical Guys After-wash drying aid
- Meguiars M105/205 compound and finishing polish
- Sonax Wheel Cleaner
- Meguiars Quick-Detailer spray
- Zaino Z-16 Tyre Dressing (Also works wonders on exterior plastics, all around the engine bay, door seals, kick panels, vinyl floor mats, boot load liners.....)
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