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Old 05-11-2014, 09:49 PM   #1
Andyb0127
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Smart repair tutorial and products used.

I thought this may be useful to members as a guide to refer to, to show how smart repairs are actually done and the process involved, techniques, products used. I would ask from the start that we keep this friendly as its for the members not a topic to slate smart repairers which has happened in the past.

This audi came into work only light damage, to o/s/f wing and bumper. id been asked about a write up for members as a guide and thought this would be ideal, i will add others that i think are suitable as a guide so it builds up more of a library for members.

Below are pictures of the damage, very minor.




To start this damage was flatted with P800, using a 3M rubber squeegy reason being that it will follow the contours of the area you are wet flatting, and where the edge are flatted back it will keep them flat and help to feather them. Dont be tempted to use your fingers as all this will do is create a groove in the paint which will show when its painted. so always use a rubber block where possible to keep it flat and smooth. As always the prep is key to any successful paint work. You will see below that we use 3M goldflex but wet&dry paper will do the same job. The suurounding area will be grey scothched as a key for the primer to stick. grey scotchbrite can be found at paint suppliers.



139.jpg[/IMG]
Below it is all prepped and masked, in the first pic you will see where a plastic primer has been applied it looks like a wet area. Dont forget plastic primer as this is the adhesion promoter for primer it needs one light coat over any bare plastic, if you forget this stage your primer will not adhere to the plastic.. Next you will see a primer applied over it, as we use spies hecker products, this is a wash primer in aerosol form which is a 1k wash primer, an aerosol high build will be of the same quality. Upol aerosol primers will do the same job.


Above spies hecker plastic primer.

above spies hecker wash primer, this was used to seal the plastic of as prep work was done using fine finishing paper. if any filler was used then a 2k primer would be used. but if your filler has been finished with as finer paper as possible then you could use an aerosol primer. Which should end up looking like the picture below. Two coats have been applied in the picture. You may need to apply three to four coats if any filler has been used. but always remember to leave ten or fifteen mins between coats.

Prepping wise this will all be done wet using P1000 and P2000 abralon pads, again the same grade flatting paper will do the same job. Primer should be ideally left over night to fully cure thishad an infa red lamp on it for ten mins and allowed to cool. If i had filled this i would leave it till the next day to flat.


Once prepped this is how it should look, lighlty flatted with 1000, 2000, any areas where im going to fade laquer out will be prepped with P3000 ill get to that later why we do that.




Above is how it should look when line masked, this means you have just taped where the area is your going to paint. With smart repairs you need to look at the damage first then decide how far this is actually going to go and where you need to prep to, its mostly about looking and seeing what body you can mask to so its kept to a minimum. if you look at the picture above you will see its masked to a swage line on the wing, and contour lines on the bumper. the car will then have a masking sheet over the whole car. then cut out where i have line masked this will stop the car getting covered in overspray.
Below is how the colour is chosen, this is audi LZ7S Daytona gray, colour was shade was chosen using spectro. scan the colour then it is plugged into our computer. You have to manually enter the car make, and colour code, shade is chosen by spectro which in this case was GN shade


Colour has to be as close to ten as you can get it, this is the part you wont see if a paint supplier is matching your colour via spectro.


Closest to ten was 9.41 which is the shade we will be using.




Above shows traffic light system for colour match and how good it is and if spectro and colour dialog can shade it for you.

Below is all sheeted and masked ready for paint. At this stage dont forget to, solvent degrease, and water base degrease it to remove any contaminents prior to painting.


Above spies hecker anti-silcon, and water base degreaser. obviously there are cheaper versions which will do the same job. After this it will be blown off and a tack cloth will be used to remove any dust particles, when using a tack cloth dont push on it just go over the area very gently.

Below is first coat of colour, one very light coat then dried, with spies hecker after this all the colour is applied in one application covering coat and blending coat, known in the trade as a drop coat. if using aerosol cans it apply a coat dry it, apply a coat dry it leaving 10-15 between coats, obviously im using a spraygun as its more controlled we use iwata lph80 sprayguns for this.



Spraying pressure is one bar as above.
Below is all base colour application done this is how it should look with colour blended aswell. blending colours in takes alot of practice and technique, specially with repairs like this where your trying to keep colour to a minimum. obviuosly with an aerosol can it will be alot more difficult.

Below is the laquer we will be using smart express hs clear mixed 2:1 with no thinners, this is specially for smart repairs. dried via infa-red lamp for fifteen mins, cooled down then polished.

Smart express magic blend is what we will using as a fade out. I said earlier that we use P3000 where fade out is applied. as this fade out will be applied over that 25% clear, then 75% magic blend mixed with it.


You can use an aerosol fade out like above spies speed blender, but i prefer spraygun for more control.
Below first coat of clear applied just over the area where basecoat has been applied, this is just a three quarter coat, as with most modern hs clears there just 1.5 coats, as in one light coat, followed by one full wet coat. dont panic if your laquer seems to have a yellow tint to it, that is just the uv filters in it.

Second coat applied just past where first coat of clear was applied, then straight away fade out is applied over edges of clear, this is an aggresive type of thinner which will dissolve the laquer edges, but be carefull as this is practically neat thinners so will run very easily again it takes pracrice.





Above being dried via infa-red lamp for fifteen mins, no diffrerent to it being dried in a spray booth as it the panels temp that cures the paint.
Once dried below it has been wet flatted with P1500 to remove any imperfections, after this it will be P2000, followed by P3000 trizact, any type of finishing paper will do the same job. just remember not to flat the fade out as you will strike through this very easily.
3M compounds will used to polish this first fast cut plus, followed by extra fine plus. an ac delco cordless polisher will be used.

When polishing the fade out be very gentle and take your time, make sure its properly cooled down if possible leave over night polish it to soon and it will not polish in properly.
Below wing all flatted and ready to be polished using the polishing system mentioned above, just keep it to a light pressure with the polisher and be aware of the edges as these will strike through very easily.
Below are pictures of the end result of what can be achieved.








Any questions members may have just ask im sure other painters would also help with advice.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:54 PM   #2
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so clever!
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:06 PM   #3
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Thanks for posting Andy.
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:14 PM   #4
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Nice job, if you use a mini gun what size compressor would you need if that is a mini gun in the picture cheers
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rookie7 View Post
Nice job, if you use a mini gun what size compressor would you need if that is a mini gun in the picture cheers
Thanks
Yes that is a mini gun in picture, obviously i wouldnt expect a beginner/novice to buy these type of guns, as there are cheaper versions which would be better to start off with and practice with which are available on ebay. The compressor i have at home is a small 50 litre tank oil less 2hp which plugs straight into the mains, some thing like that would be ample for small paint jobs as it done at a low pressure.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:07 PM   #6
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Brilliant I look forward to more installments

Obviously this is the 'top end' of smart repair work.
If you dont mind me asking Andy, roughly how much would this cost?
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:27 PM   #7
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Great work what distance and temp are you using the IR lights at
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enc View Post
Brilliant I look forward to more installments

Obviously this is the 'top end' of smart repair work.
If you dont mind me asking Andy, roughly how much would this cost?
Thanks mate.
I think my manager charged around £220+vat to do this job.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodfella36 View Post
Great work what distance and temp are you using the IR lights at
Thanks :thumb
These infa-red lamps these distance should be around three feet away from the panel.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:12 AM   #10
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Very nice job indeed!!!

Not a criticisation at all but a genuine question.... When doing a repair like this myself I would lacquer the entire panel. What in your opinion is the advantage of fading out the lacquer over doing the whole panel? Sorry just a bit stuck in the past when it comes to my techniques.
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