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Old 14-01-2019, 11:56 AM   #321
Kranzle
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Hi Tony,
When it comes to water supply on pressure washers it is important to get it right. Cap and liner fittings are great because they should be air tight as well as water tight. The Y splitter could be an issue depending on what bore it has and if it could cause a restriction?

It could be best to avoid using customers water supply 30-40 meters away directly with the machine. Instead you could connect their water supply to a float valve keeping your water tank topped up and keep the machine sucking water from the tank if we know the setup is perfect.

How old is your machine and are you concerned that it is or will be a repeat problem?

You could switch to ¾” crush resistant suction hose with larger cap and liner fittings through an inline water filter direct to your tank, that would completely rule out any risk to your setup at that point.

You power cable sounds good, 2.5mm completely unwound and regular oil changes are a great idea. I would also drill a small hole (2mm max) into the red oil filler plug, this will vent your oil bath and avoid any pressure from building when the oil heats and cools.

William
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Old 14-01-2019, 01:21 PM   #322
Snowy172
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hi William
a quick question for you. ive got a k7/122 and I want to try and power it without mains power. what size generator would I need to run it? also would it be possible to run it from a 12v to 240v power investor?
thanks
chris
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Old 14-01-2019, 08:25 PM   #323
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Thanks William, I think I will remove the y splitter.

The machine itself is only a year old with about 6 months of regular mobile valeting use. And yes, I am a little concerned And don’t really want a hefty bill every year or so.

The float valve does seem like a good idea. Do you have any recommendations for an good system?

Also, I’m sure you have covered it before, but what is the proper shut down procedure for the machine? It is the non stop version.

I think I might do the crush resistant hose from tank to pw, any recommendations for cap liner, hose and water filter?

I will drill a hole in the red cap. Will there be any issues with moisture in the environment around it?

Thanks a lot for your help so far!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kranzle View Post
Hi Tony,
When it comes to water supply on pressure washers it is important to get it right. Cap and liner fittings are great because they should be air tight as well as water tight. The Y splitter could be an issue depending on what bore it has and if it could cause a restriction?

It could be best to avoid using customers water supply 30-40 meters away directly with the machine. Instead you could connect their water supply to a float valve keeping your water tank topped up and keep the machine sucking water from the tank if we know the setup is perfect.

How old is your machine and are you concerned that it is or will be a repeat problem?

You could switch to ¾” crush resistant suction hose with larger cap and liner fittings through an inline water filter direct to your tank, that would completely rule out any risk to your setup at that point.

You power cable sounds good, 2.5mm completely unwound and regular oil changes are a great idea. I would also drill a small hole (2mm max) into the red oil filler plug, this will vent your oil bath and avoid any pressure from building when the oil heats and cools.

William
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Old 16-01-2019, 12:05 AM   #324
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Hi William

I have a K7/120 machine which has been superb.

I noticed today that it has started leaking water from where the head joins the main body and there was also some oil in there too.

I'm thinking I need to replace the oil and water seals?

Is this right do you think and if so, which kits do I need please?

Also, where the hose nozzle fitted into the machine, it was quite rusty and took some elbow grease to remove - is this normal or should I look at a hose replacement (it's OK apart from the rusty ends!)

Thanks
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Old 16-01-2019, 12:13 PM   #325
Kranzle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy172 View Post
hi William
a quick question for you. ive got a k7/122 and I want to try and power it without mains power. what size generator would I need to run it? also would it be possible to run it from a 12v to 240v power investor?
thanks
chris
Hi Chris, Double check with a generator company as they will know what’s best. In our experience we take the running load, double it and round it up. The 7/122 draws 1.6kw so doubled would be 3.2kw and we can round that up to 3.5kw. We do this because the machine has an induction motor and with these you get a large draw of power as you turn the machine on. Once its on it will only draw 1.6kw but the start up load will have been more.
If you can find a 3.5kva generator you should have no issue running your machine and even a little additional lighting during the dark months if required. But please check that advise with your generator supplier.

It is possible to run the machines from an invertor, I have seen it done a few times but I haven’t had any first-hand experience with those, so I cant advise on batteries, inverters, wiring or the setup.


Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbear View Post
Thanks William, I think I will remove the y splitter.

The machine itself is only a year old with about 6 months of regular mobile valeting use. And yes, I am a little concerned And don’t really want a hefty bill every year or so.

The float valve does seem like a good idea. Do you have any recommendations for an good system?

Also, I’m sure you have covered it before, but what is the proper shut down procedure for the machine? It is the non stop version.

I think I might do the crush resistant hose from tank to pw, any recommendations for cap liner, hose and water filter?

I will drill a hole in the red cap. Will there be any issues with moisture in the environment around it?

Thanks a lot for your help so far!
Hi Tony,
The Kranzle float valves we use inside the machines are restricted on space so they are diaphragm equilibrium valves, compact but more expensive and complicated.
For a float valve in your water tank you should just use a simple ball **** float valve, something like you find in a toilet cistern. These will usually be ½” bsp but you can easily get hold of a ½” ¾” bush adaptor for connecting to standard tap fittings or you may be able to find a ¾” float valve.

Once you have your float valve, make sure you can run some pipe from the float valve to introduce the water below the water level, this way when it fills up the water wont be splashing down into the tank aerating the water which the machine is sucking. Air in your water is a bad thing for the pressure washer.

The full shut down procedure would be to turn off the machine, squeeze the trigger to release trapped pressure, disconnect water inlet and high pressure outlet hose and then turn the machine on for a few seconds to clear the water from the pump.
Most people just turn the machine off and release the pressure, that way you wouldn’t then need to purge the air out the next time you use the machine, but during the winter months there is a risk of the water freezing inside the machine.

I will get a picture of the perfect machine to tank setup shortly but the part numbers would be:
133003 – Inline water filter
LPH002 – Green crush resistant hose (per meter)
410165 – ¾” x ¾” cap n liner set brass (each)
The whole kit should cost around £40

There are pro’s and con’s to drilling a vent hole in the oil cap, it will stop the oil bath from building pressure and blowing oil seals but it is also an extra area where moisture can get into your machines oil. I would vent the oil cap and change the oil 4 times a year. If you are doing the oil changes yourself and buying the oil in big bottles it can cost you less than £2 a change. Keeps the machine happy.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck View Post
Hi William

I have a K7/120 machine which has been superb.

I noticed today that it has started leaking water from where the head joins the main body and there was also some oil in there too.

I'm thinking I need to replace the oil and water seals?

Is this right do you think and if so, which kits do I need please?

Also, where the hose nozzle fitted into the machine, it was quite rusty and took some elbow grease to remove - is this normal or should I look at a hose replacement (it's OK apart from the rusty ends!)

Thanks

Hi Buck,
Firstly, are you sure it is the 7/120 and not the newer 7/122? The 122 replaced the 120 in 2013.

You can order the water seal kit and oil seal kit but it might be better to take the machine to someone or send it down to us for fitting the seals. The housing plate can be damaged (scored) while removing the old oil seals if care is not taken, which can add £60 to the repair. The hard water seals are bigger than the holes they go into which makes them tricky to fit the correct way round, you can prise them in using a screw driver blade but it is easy to damage them causing a leak or it can shorten their life span if they are stressed during fitting; We use a tapered guide and plunger, so the seal drops and is evenly compressed as its pushed down the guide until they seat perfectly into the pump head.

The actual parts will cost the same in either case (ordering or fitting) it will only cost and additional £40 labour and about £35 of carriage.
We can also check other components and spot anything out of the ordinary which may cause an issue, such as a defect or damage to a plunger or bearing.

The ends of the hose would benefit from a good rub from a wire brush or sandpaper and then greased before re fitting, routine maintenance should keep them in good condition but a little rust or corrosion shouldn’t be an issue of the hose ends. Are the O-rings in good condition? Those can be replaced easily enough.


William
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Old 17-01-2019, 12:24 AM   #326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kranzle View Post
Hi

Hi Buck,
Firstly, are you sure it is the 7/120 and not the newer 7/122? The 122 replaced the 120 in 2013.

You can order the water seal kit and oil seal kit but it might be better to take the machine to someone or send it down to us for fitting the seals. The housing plate can be damaged (scored) while removing the old oil seals if care is not taken, which can add £60 to the repair. The hard water seals are bigger than the holes they go into which makes them tricky to fit the correct way round, you can prise them in using a screw driver blade but it is easy to damage them causing a leak or it can shorten their life span if they are stressed during fitting; We use a tapered guide and plunger, so the seal drops and is evenly compressed as its pushed down the guide until they seat perfectly into the pump head.

The actual parts will cost the same in either case (ordering or fitting) it will only cost and additional £40 labour and about £35 of carriage.
We can also check other components and spot anything out of the ordinary which may cause an issue, such as a defect or damage to a plunger or bearing.

The ends of the hose would benefit from a good rub from a wire brush or sandpaper and then greased before re fitting, routine maintenance should keep them in good condition but a little rust or corrosion shouldn’t be an issue of the hose ends. Are the O-rings in good condition? Those can be replaced easily enough.


William
Thanks William. Yes, definitely a 120 - I’ve had it a few years now and served me very well.

It might be best to get a service on it then rather than me DIYing. (I’m pretty competent but don’t want to risk breaking the machine)

Would you PM me a price for the service with yourself plus the parts and labour please?

Many thanks
Adrian
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Old 17-01-2019, 08:03 PM   #327
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Perfect, thanks for all the info it’s much appreciated. I’ve just ordered those parts so will get started on that set up ASAP.
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