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Old 28-04-2021, 11:47 PM   #1
Davi
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Help a newbie buy his first items and pick his order of operations please.

Hey everyone. So as I mentioned in my other thread about the pressure washer I’ve finally got a car that’s worth keeping good so I want to do my best to do so. The car is a Kia Sportage so has a fair amount of surface area and will be used for general short trips, occasional long road trips and fairly frequently very muddy trips down farm tracks.

I’ve been doing my research on what order to do steps in and what products to buy but was hoping I could get some input on the order I’ve come up with and the products I’m thinking of buying. I won’t be doing any form of paint correction for the foreseeable future as I want to focus on the other steps first and obtain a practice panel before going anywhere near the bodywork on my car with a polishing machine.

My main focus will be clean glass which beads well for visibility, a nice clean & protected interior and a reasonable finish on the exterior that the mud can easily be washed off of.

My proposed order and products I’m considering:

INTERIOR
Hoover/Dust
Clean Plastics – Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (2%)
Dress Plastics – 303 Automotive protectant
Spot treat fabric stains - Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (2-5%)
Clean whole headlining using wiping method - Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (5%)
Clean carpets and upholstery using spray extractor - Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (5%)

ENGINE
Clean engine bay using brushes, microfibers and bucket - Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (10%)
Dry engine bay with microfibers and idling for 5 mins
Dress plastics – 303 Automotive protectant

EXTERIOR
Clean door shuts and fuel filler using bucket and microfiber – Bilt Hamber Autowash
Pre clean wheel arches – Power maxed TFR (9%)
Pre clean wheels agitating with brush – Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel Cleaner
Pressure wash wheels and arches
Pre clean whole car – Power maxed TFR (9%)
Pressure wash car
Snow foam whole car – Bilt Hamber auto foam
Pressure wash car
Clean car using 2 bucket method
Pressure wash car
Dry car – need suggestion on affordable drying microfiber
Spray bug and tar remover paintwork and wheels – Dodo juice Tarmageddon
Pressure wash car
Spray fallout remover paintwork and wheels – Bilt Hamber Korrosol
Pressure wash car
Wash car using 2 bucket method - Bilt Hamber Auto wash
Pressure wash car
Dry car – need suggestion on affordable drying microfiber
Clay car – thinking Bilt Hamber clay but don’t know which one or what lubricant
Wash car using 2 bucket method -
Pressure wash car
Dry car – need suggestion on affordable drying microfiber
Prepare for sealant – Soft99 silicone off
Tape up plastic trim – Need suggestion for good tape to use
Seal car – Soft99 Fusso Coat
Remove tape
Apply trim dressing - 303 Automotive protectant
Apply tyre dressing - 303 Automotive protectant
Clean external glass – Angelwax vision glass cleaner
Seal external glass – Angelwax H2GO

INTERIOR
Clean internal glass – Angelwax vision glass cleaner
Apply fabric treatment to headlining (spray method? Need to cover plastic and leather if doing this?) – Dodo juice supernatural fabric sealant, Angelwax shield, chemical guys fabric guard, chemical guys Hydrothread. (Not sure which)
Apply fabric treatment to carpets and seats (spray method? Need to cover plastic and leather if doing this?) – Dodo juice supernatural fabric sealant, Angelwax shield, chemical guys fabric guard, chemical guys Hydrothread. (Not sure which)
Clean leather – need suggestions for good cleaner
Protect leather – need suggestion for good leather protectant
Scent car – Chemical guys stripper scent
So far I already have ordered or planning to order:
George spray extraction vac
Hozelock ultraflex hose
Hozelock metal aquastop connectors
Nilfisk C110 – planning to get
Kirkland microfibers (engine bays, wheel door shuts etc) – planning to get
Drill brush
Detailing brush
I know I’ll also need a lambswool mitt, drying microfibres, buckets x 2, grit guard x1, waffle microfiber for glass, applicators for sealant, tyre dressing applicator

Please chime in with advice on my order of steps #, product selection and product suggestions. Sorry its so long winded but I didn’t want you to need to spoon feed me everything.
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Old 28-04-2021, 11:54 PM   #2
noorth
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What color is your car? I noticed your going to clay without polishing.
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Old 29-04-2021, 12:13 AM   #3
Davi
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Its silver. Yeah just want to do a full decontamination to get it as clean as possible but not ready to do paint correction yet. In a few months I want to touch up some stone chips and maybe after that plus some practice I'll have a go at polishing.
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Old 29-04-2021, 12:18 AM   #4
Ennoch
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A few things I would respond with;
- unless you're going to polish/correct I would avoid claying and instead use Korrosol and a decent tar remover to get reduce contaminents. You won't get quite the same smoothness as you would with claying but then you won't have the marring to contend with either.
- BH clay can be used with just water, although I tend to use a very dilute soap solution or QD. Medium should be all you need when combined with tar and fallout removers (I'd still use these as the less big things you leave the clay to deal with the less marring you'll get and the longer your clay will last).
- 3M blue 3434 is the default tape. There are some alternatives but this stuff is cheap and easily available. I'd get mostly the 1" stuff to go round curves etc and then a few rolls of the 2" to cover bigger bits once you've done the edges with the thinner stuff.
- 303 protectant is great stuff (I'd also recommend their fabric protector, just don't mix up the bottles!), but I don't use it on interior plastics other than kick plates etc as I don't like the sheen it gives. Thus I still use Einzett interior cleaner on the dash and controls etc which gives a totally matt finish, but is anti static and provides UV protection (albeit doubtfully as much as the 303).
- Pretty sure you don't need to use the Bilberry along with Korrosol. At least I've always found Korrosol to be a brilliant wheel cleaner as well as fallout remover to use on the rest of the car too.

Hopefully that helps a bit, I'm sure there will be more guys along to give some pointers shortly! The thing to remember is that many products are going to give you the finish and results you desire, it's just a case of finding stuff that works for you and your processes, and wallet. I tend to stick to Dodo (wax & glaze), Bilt Hamber (cleaning) & Meguiars (polish/compound/pads) along with Angelwaxes tar remover but there are many, many alternatives
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Old 29-04-2021, 01:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennoch View Post
A few things I would respond with;
- unless you're going to polish/correct I would avoid claying and instead use Korrosol and a decent tar remover to get reduce contaminents. You won't get quite the same smoothness as you would with claying but then you won't have the marring to contend with either.
- BH clay can be used with just water, although I tend to use a very dilute soap solution or QD. Medium should be all you need when combined with tar and fallout removers (I'd still use these as the less big things you leave the clay to deal with the less marring you'll get and the longer your clay will last).
- 3M blue 3434 is the default tape. There are some alternatives but this stuff is cheap and easily available. I'd get mostly the 1" stuff to go round curves etc and then a few rolls of the 2" to cover bigger bits once you've done the edges with the thinner stuff.
- 303 protectant is great stuff (I'd also recommend their fabric protector, just don't mix up the bottles!), but I don't use it on interior plastics other than kick plates etc as I don't like the sheen it gives. Thus I still use Einzett interior cleaner on the dash and controls etc which gives a totally matt finish, but is anti static and provides UV protection (albeit doubtfully as much as the 303).
- Pretty sure you don't need to use the Bilberry along with Korrosol. At least I've always found Korrosol to be a brilliant wheel cleaner as well as fallout remover to use on the rest of the car too.

Hopefully that helps a bit, I'm sure there will be more guys along to give some pointers shortly! The thing to remember is that many products are going to give you the finish and results you desire, it's just a case of finding stuff that works for you and your processes, and wallet. I tend to stick to Dodo (wax & glaze), Bilt Hamber (cleaning) & Meguiars (polish/compound/pads) along with Angelwaxes tar remover but there are many, many alternatives
Thanks for the detailed response. I didn’t realise flaying would induce marring, I thought it’s stopped marring by removing contaminates.

Would you says the 303 fabric guard is better than the dodo? I like the fact they say it can be brushed on for a thick coat. With the amount of mud this may see when I go out shooting, I thought that would be a good idea. It also why I’m looking at the much more expensive chemical guys hydrothread.
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Old 29-04-2021, 06:41 AM   #6
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Yes claying will leave you with smooth and contaminant free paint but will majority of the time will leave you with marring as Ennoch says.

Try and just stick to chemical decontamination like fallout removers and tar remover.
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Old 29-04-2021, 09:32 AM   #7
Saladin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davi View Post
Dry car – need suggestion on affordable drying microfiber
One thing I will say as someone who was (still is!) a newbie just last November is don't skimp on the drying towel. Trust me on this - I've learnt from experience.

I originally bought a really cheap one from EuroCarParts but quickly realised that it was shocking. I then thought you know what, Im going to invest a bit more money - looking at reviews online and the budget I wanted to spend (10-14ish) I opted for the InstaDry by Autoglym... It's good but it takes FOREVER to dry the car due to the constant need to wring it out. I would avoid it if I'm honest.

Now I was stuck with a towel I had used like twice but now began to really irritate me. So off I went to buy ANOTHER towel, this time I opted for a twisted loop one (Dodo Juice's Dry Hard) and OH MY GOD! These twisted loop towels are honestly the best thing since sliced bread (with butter, of course!). It was expensive... it was £20 but we get a 10% here at DW with the code DW10 so was a tiny bit easier to swallow.

Now I'm not saying go out and spend £18 on the Dry Hard or something similar but I will say is don't buy the InstaDry and, trust me a lot on this, buy something that is recommended by people on here. And if you can find a twisted loop cheaper, grab it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davi View Post
INTERIOR
Clean leather – need suggestions for good cleaner
Protect leather – need suggestion for good leather protectant
I'd go Supernatural here too:
https://supernaturalcarcare.com/coll...eather-cleaner
https://supernaturalcarcare.com/coll...eather-sealant

Re. the sealant - again learnt from experience - less is more! I wasted about half a bottle on one coating by applying far far too much.

Last edited by Saladin; 29-04-2021 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 29-04-2021, 09:59 AM   #8
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Thanks for the suggestions will check them out.

Looking at getting the car freaks snow foam lance. This a good option at £25?
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Old 29-04-2021, 03:43 PM   #9
Ennoch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davi View Post
Thanks for the detailed response. I didn’t realise flaying would induce marring, I thought it’s stopped marring by removing contaminates.

Would you says the 303 fabric guard is better than the dodo? I like the fact they say it can be brushed on for a thick coat. With the amount of mud this may see when I go out shooting, I thought that would be a good idea. It also why I’m looking at the much more expensive chemical guys hydrothread.
It removes contaminants but it then moves them across the paint. Also, the harder the clay you're using the more marring it'll leave. Think holograms rather than scratches though, unless you get grit trapped in it.

I've never used the Dodo stuff but I have the 303, in both my own cars, and both my parents cars. Mine has all sorts of muddy kit thrown in the back, as does my dad's, and the 303 has been great. Then again the Superguard stuff on the Honda was also pretty good and on the seats that are rarely used 18 years on they still clean easily. I think the key is getting a reasonable one but beyond that I'd suggest the differences will be fairly minimal. If you like the sound of the Dodo one then I'd go for that, I've not tried a product of theirs I don't like (although the same could be said of 303).
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