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Old 09-01-2012, 12:53 PM   #11
JBirchy
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Originally Posted by SimonBash View Post
Was the sanding being done by hand without a block (megs foam sanding block for example)?
Both methods were explored. We initally started out with no sanding block, just to feel the inital cut through the paper. No pressure applied, but the feel is quite surprising.

After that, the 2500 and 3000 grit sessions were done with a Megs sanding block.
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:36 PM   #12
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My wife has Titan Silver BMW E46 2005, full of swirls, rids, you name it. It's a gift from my father in law, mechanically in superb condition, but of course he used standard car washes. Just this saturday I tried to find the appropriate combo for getting it sorted. I have Makita rotary, Makita wool pad, Wolfs cutting pad, Wolf's polishes 1-3-6. My test bed was the boot lid, which I taped to work only on half of it to get 50:50.

After 3 passes with Wolf's polish 6 (The Equalizer) and the cutting pad (didn't try the wool pad), then one pass with medium polish I get the very thin hairs out of the clear. 2 hours of hard grease elbow. Unfortunately the rids and deepers swirls were still present. I'm tempted to try the wetsand, thanks for giving me the confidence.
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:13 PM   #13
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You've got to try wetsanding. Im sure it will sort it out! However, im also sure that WP-6H and a wool pad would significantly knock back the swirls, so quite surprised that it didn't do much with your paint.

As long as you keep measuring the paint depth, you will be fine with the wetsanding and as you can get amazing results!
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:44 PM   #14
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So I just tried it. You might remember, that I tried to polish only the half of the boot lid on Saturday. So I masked the other half today, and took a deep breath. I have only 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit sandpapers, I left them to soak in slightly lubed water for 10 minutes.

I wetted the lid with a sprayer and started with 2000 grit. My paper was constantly stuck on the panel (adhesion), it was very hard to make it move. I had to find the proper finger grip. I went over the panel like 25-30 times, constantly spraying the panel. The I moved onto 3000 grit, did the same thing. After drying the panel I was looking at hazed sadness.

I have no paint thickness meter, so everything I did was a huge risk. I'm a bit lucky a body shop owner with Standox paints is my friend. The backup plan was a respray if my test would be botched.

Next I took my Makita, and spilled some WP-3N on cutting pad. I wanted to know if the Medium polish can get back the gloss, I didn't wanted to go for WP-6H. My problem was quick panel overheating, as I was working only on half of the lid. After two passes the gloss was back. After checking the panel after IPA wipe I found that I was too conservative with the sanding. Deeper rids are still present, but there is only few of them. Their corners are rounded, so optically they are hard to spot.

Comparing to the panel I did last time only with polishing the gloss is better, and the best news is, that I did the same work on half time.

Big thanks to Steve for the clues and the pics which gave me confidence, and Jon for support :-)
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:13 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by chch View Post
So I just tried it. You might remember, that I tried to polish only the half of the boot lid on Saturday. So I masked the other half today, and took a deep breath. I have only 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit sandpapers, I left them to soak in slightly lubed water for 10 minutes.

I wetted the lid with a sprayer and started with 2000 grit. My paper was constantly stuck on the panel (adhesion), it was very hard to make it move. I had to find the proper finger grip. I went over the panel like 25-30 times, constantly spraying the panel. The I moved onto 3000 grit, did the same thing. After drying the panel I was looking at hazed sadness.

I have no paint thickness meter, so everything I did was a huge risk. I'm a bit lucky a body shop owner with Standox paints is my friend. The backup plan was a respray if my test would be botched.

Next I took my Makita, and spilled some WP-3N on cutting pad. I wanted to know if the Medium polish can get back the gloss, I didn't wanted to go for WP-6H. My problem was quick panel overheating, as I was working only on half of the lid. After two passes the gloss was back. After checking the panel after IPA wipe I found that I was too conservative with the sanding. Deeper rids are still present, but there is only few of them. Their corners are rounded, so optically they are hard to spot.

Comparing to the panel I did last time only with polishing the gloss is better, and the best news is, that I did the same work on half time.

Big thanks to Steve for the clues and the pics which gave me confidence, and Jon for support :-)
Glad you've got the confidence to give it a go! It is better if you have a PDG as you can constantly check you are still safe with the clearcoat level, but hopefully you can get some great results!
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:35 PM   #16
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I will never try wet sanding without PDG fair play to You

Last edited by Alzak; 11-01-2012 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:20 PM   #17
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Yet another fantastic course by Steve!

I only knew the very basic's of wet sanding and would never of dared too of tried it but Steve explained in detail and let us all have a go and will most defiantly be giving it ago on my car full of orange peel, would recommend Steve's courses to everyone, they are a must, top bloke!

Also a big thank you to Phil from Shinearama for his great hospitality.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:09 PM   #18
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Thanks for posting the followup to the day Steve...

As stated very easy to take a good deal of clear off with compounds, lot less taken off with wet or dry sanding....

Lovely work there folks....
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:14 PM   #19
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Thanks for posting the followup to the day Steve...

As stated very easy to take a good deal of clear off with compounds, lot less taken off with wet or dry sanding....

Lovely work there folks....
It is a real suprise as how little is taken off wet sanding compared to compounding. It is definately taking detailing up a level, as it seems daft compounding a car for the amount of clear it removes and does not remove the peel. A lot of customers are very taken back at the finish it delivers with such little paint removal.

Thanks for all the replies everyone and to Jon for his input!!!

Looking forward to the next one now, need a recent VW or BMW to be a donor car.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:24 AM   #20
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good job there guys
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