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Pre-wash stages, Washing, Drying, Clay & 'Quick Detailing' Discuss All your prewash stages- washing, claying, pre rinse , claying and drying

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Old 02-09-2019, 03:58 PM   #1
Doctor D
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Tips for washing where water hardness is a concern

Hi All

I'm admittedly a bit of a novice when it come to detailing so please go easy with me but I'm enjoying learning as I go. I have a question for you guys that I'd greatly appreciate your thoughts on...

I live in a super hard water area in South London and water spotting is a major issue for me.

My car is coming up for 18 months old now and was professionally treated from new with Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM Pro which I've been really pleased with...

For completeness I describe my wash regime below

I treat the wheels first with Valet Pro Bilberry or Koch Chemie reactive cleaner before rinsing off and then snowfoam using an Autobrite lance (Bilthamber at present) followed by two bucket method (with Grit guards) using a Microfibre Madness mitt and currently shampoo with Koch Chemie Nanomagic before drying off with Edgeless Chemical Guys Mircofibre cloths while applying Kamikaze overcoat while the car is wet. I then chase round with another microfibre cloth and a Big Boi BlowR to stop dribbles and runs...

I do this once a month and it gets good results but... I get a lot of fall out and light dust on the car over a few days/weeks (as it's parked on the drive) that I'd like to rinse off between washes to keep some of the the sparkle but hosing off the car to rinse off some of the grit and dust that settle on the paintwork over time leaves me with awful water spots forcing me to re-wash the car thoroughly and treat all trims and rubbers etc. to get back to acceptable standard. Something I don't regrettably have time for...

I've heard tell of water purifier (filter) systems like Raceglaze and Unger , the latter I believe is primarily a window cleaning system but wondered what everyone's experiences on here were and what you guys might advise.

I'm sorry for the long post but thought all the info relevant.

Thanks for reading and of course any advice you can give

Shine on...

Doc

Last edited by Doctor D; 02-09-2019 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 08:41 PM   #2
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Im going to cause a bit of friction here probably, but i have long since stopped using shampoos now in favour of rinseless washes. The difference being i still do the whole protocol of pre wash, 2 buckets etc, i just swapped shampoo for ONR. It softens water and as you can adjust your timings you can avoid spotting all together
Im not a fan of a rinseless wash on a car that hasnt had a thorough pre wash, but it would be safer than a simple jetwash from hard water that is left to dry naturally.
If you really must remove light dust from it i would say standard rinseless wash set up or a water filter. But bare in mind if you run your jetwash through a filter you will probably burn through the fillings quite quickly
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Old 02-09-2019, 08:54 PM   #3
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Nothing wrong with that approach Stangalang!
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:01 PM   #4
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From your description it sounds as though you are simply rinsing with tap water between washes and leaving to dry? Hence water spots from hard water.

unfortunately there are no shortcuts and you really need to wash the car and then either dry it (towel or blowdrier) or rinse with water that has zero dissolved solids.

A DI vessel is a great piece of kit, as you can wash then rinse and leave to dry with no water spots. Just rinsing with DI water might remove some of the dust, but you are still likely to have residue left in the DI water which will be left on the paint when the water dries.
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:24 PM   #5
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Thanks for the feedback chaps. I get where you're coming from regarding possible flaws in the idea of just rinsing off light dusty surface contaminants as opposed to a full blown wash.

I must confess I'm not sure if the use of ONR (which I'd never heard of until stangalang mentioned it) is the ideal solution for the ceramic coatings I have?

Maybe you guys could advise?

I'm assuming a DI vessel is like this...

https://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-gla...ashing-filter/

or this....

https://www.ungerglobal.com/en/hydro...ultra-filter-s

Does any one have any experience of either of the ones here or could even recommend alternatives I'm not aware of?

I get the comment about not using in conjunction with a Jet wash as the resin would be worked extra hard and have a significantly shortened working life.

I like the idea of just leaving to dry with no residue as it'll cut down on my Kamikaze Overcoat usage as a drying aid too.

Any further info or opinion appreciated.

Shine on...
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:33 PM   #6
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ONR does leave something behind, so water behaviour will be different from your kamikaze.

DI vessels are fantastic. One of my best purchases (black car and hard water).

Try D A Q U A (spaces added as the forum does not seem to like the name) for good value vessels and resin.

Raceglaze tend to be expensive (they do like to stress the benefit of aspect ratio as their vessels are tall and thin, but I've had no issues from a dumpy vessel).

I've used mine with a kranzle K7 ( 7 l/min) and it works fine. With my K1152 (10 l/min) it tends to draw water too quickly to allow significant contact time to remove dissolved solids. Normal use though is simply as a final rinse.
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:38 PM   #7
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Thanks fatdazza.

I'll look into it a bit more. I'm convinced a DI vessel will be a valuable addition to my ever expanding collection of detailing products. It's just about which one? I did see Raceglaze's comments about tall and thin VS short and dumpy but my set up at home steers me away from a tall unstable unit unless I can come up with some sort of temporary method to preventing it falling over!

I'm only a domestic user so those lovely high end jet washers are maybe a bit too much for me.

FYI I'm currently using Nilfisk Powergrip 130 Pressure Washer/Patio Cleaner - 1800W on it's lowest pressure setting if that bears any relevance?

Shine on...

Last edited by Doctor D; 02-09-2019 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 11:06 PM   #8
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An 11 litre vessel is a pretty good size. Comments about aspect ratio relate to the efficiency of vessels in removing dissolved solids. The tests referred to are related to volumes passed through a static vessel. If you roll or shake a dumpy vessel to mix up the resin, and prevent short circuits occurring, you will get the same volume of DI water from a measure of resin.
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Old 03-09-2019, 12:51 AM   #9
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Hi fatdazza

After a fair bit of Googling, reading up and chin rubbing tonight I reckon the 11L D A Q U A filled with Purolite 400 is going to do the job and be a good balance of economical running costs, simplicity and... stability.

I looked at the UNGER (nice but very expensive) Pure Final Rinse (same story as Unger really) and Raceglaze (Better value but 11L looks like a good compromise between their 7 and 14L options) and have settled on your suggestion...

I'll let you know how I get on

Shine on...
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Old 03-09-2019, 07:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor D View Post
Hi fatdazza

After a fair bit of Googling, reading up and chin rubbing tonight I reckon the 11L D A Q U A filled with Purolite 400 is going to do the job and be a good balance of economical running costs, simplicity and... stability.

I looked at the UNGER (nice but very expensive) Pure Final Rinse (same story as Unger really) and Raceglaze (Better value but 11L looks like a good compromise between their 7 and 14L options) and have settled on your suggestion...

I'll let you know how I get on

Shine on...
You won't regret a DI vessel purchase. I have not used Purolite, although it appears to be top of the range resin (by price). I have always used Tulsion MB115 and never had a problem, but it always seems to be in short supply.
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