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Old 17-09-2019, 08:23 AM   #21
NorthantsPete
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Three options

Detail once a year or every 6 months, and top up with a drying aid that contains polymers

OR

Spray a good polymer detailer on every wash, such as Megs Detailer Xpress wax

OR

Do what I do, Sonax BSD, then Demon shine after every wash (also use NXT shampoo for additoal layer of polymers) - my car was washed last week and still looks amazing today as nothing is sticking to it. Because one of them lasts until my next wash and they help each other, Im beading effortlessly 24/7 365.
If I have time or I want to give gloss a boost I use SRP undeneath to hide the 'daily' scratches and add further gloss, after a claybar. BSD has glossy cleaners in it too so youre always cleaning the paint with these methods and claybar a lot less as a result, you can do it 1 a year.


My volvo is too big to detail all the time with fancy stuff that lasts a day or two before looking crap. i go bulk, I work fast, or go home.

Last edited by NorthantsPete; 17-09-2019 at 08:29 AM. Reason: I cant count.
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Old 17-09-2019, 09:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheep View Post
I would use something like Meguairs HCW, Turtle wax SnS, or the likes for your protection then. They all should last at least 4 months, and are very easy to apply. Moonlight is a coating but easier to apply, it still needs perfect prep. The spray products don't require perfect prep (although do benefit from it) so you can apply them and still get good durability, without having to worry too much about prep.
I already use HCW but I didnít realise that durability was that long on it! Iíve got some Turtle Wax Hybrid Sealant Wax (is this the same as SnS?) which Iím yet to use.
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Old 23-09-2019, 07:38 PM   #23
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So it turns out I can fit my car in my garage, just! So this opens a few more options.

Are there any easy for a beginner, cheap but good ceramic coatings? Or ceramic style?

Or should I stick with Moonlight or Cancoat?

Thanks,

Craig
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Old 09-09-2020, 01:20 PM   #24
TheMac
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TAC One step master

I prepared my Audi, wash, decontamination, clay bar and polish with Carpro essence. I then applied TAC systems one step master. Both essence and one step master produced significant gloss, were relatively inexpensive and straightforward to use.
HOWEVER, my lovely Audi paintwork colour ice silver is now muted to an uninteresting grey with no silver flake. So be aware that TAC may have introduced a tint into this product range.
I have attempted to post a related query on various stes but each seem to keep being getting taken down.
Does anyone know if all cermatic coatings / toppers mute paint colour or if it is possible to retain the original. I had previously applied Gyeon rim without issue but the wheels, to an extent now look like they may be off another car!
In desperation I applied one stop master on one to see if I could tone the wheels down to roughly the same colour as the bodywork. The brilliant silver became muted but just looked slightly grubby.
I may have been lightly spoilt in that I have been using Glare for the last 5 years with the result that the car was almost, but not quite, as reflective and the paintwork was bright.
Appologies if this appears to have hijacked your post. It started out with the intention of being helpful efore it turned into a rant.
Any constructive advice would be useful.
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Old 09-09-2020, 01:29 PM   #25
atbalfour
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMac View Post
I prepared my Audi, wash, decontamination, clay bar and polish with Carpro essence. I then applied TAC systems one step master. Both essence and one step master produced significant gloss, were relatively inexpensive and straightforward to use.
HOWEVER, my lovely Audi paintwork colour ice silver is now muted to an uninteresting grey with no silver flake. So be aware that TAC may have introduced a tint into this product range.
I have attempted to post a related query on various stes but each seem to keep being getting taken down.
Does anyone know if all cermatic coatings / toppers mute paint colour or if it is possible to retain the original. I had previously applied Gyeon rim without issue but the wheels, to an extent now look like they may be off another car!
In desperation I applied one stop master on one to see if I could tone the wheels down to roughly the same colour as the bodywork. The brilliant silver became muted but just looked slightly grubby.
I may have been lightly spoilt in that I have been using Glare for the last 5 years with the result that the car was almost, but not quite, as reflective and the paintwork was bright.
Appologies if this appears to have hijacked your post. It started out with the intention of being helpful efore it turned into a rant.
Any constructive advice would be useful.
I've recently run a test which mirrors others I've seen in showing that ceramic type products that are designed to darken paint do so, at the expense of some of the tones and metallic flake pop on lighter cars.

To rule out any other factors, how long did the 'muting' of the paint take to happen? Was this quickly after you corrected it, and separately how long between apply OSM over Essence?

Photos may help..
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Old 09-09-2020, 03:03 PM   #26
roscopervis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMac View Post
I prepared my Audi, wash, decontamination, clay bar and polish with Carpro essence. I then applied TAC systems one step master. Both essence and one step master produced significant gloss, were relatively inexpensive and straightforward to use.
HOWEVER, my lovely Audi paintwork colour ice silver is now muted to an uninteresting grey with no silver flake. So be aware that TAC may have introduced a tint into this product range.
I have attempted to post a related query on various stes but each seem to keep being getting taken down.
Does anyone know if all cermatic coatings / toppers mute paint colour or if it is possible to retain the original. I had previously applied Gyeon rim without issue but the wheels, to an extent now look like they may be off another car!
In desperation I applied one stop master on one to see if I could tone the wheels down to roughly the same colour as the bodywork. The brilliant silver became muted but just looked slightly grubby.
I may have been lightly spoilt in that I have been using Glare for the last 5 years with the result that the car was almost, but not quite, as reflective and the paintwork was bright.
Appologies if this appears to have hijacked your post. It started out with the intention of being helpful efore it turned into a rant.
Any constructive advice would be useful.
I know exactly what you mean and is something I mentioned in Atbalfour's excellent test post. The term that is coming into fashion for this effect is 'jetting' and many people find it desirable and it can be on certain colours and finishes. However, it can sap the zing out of others. Part of the side effect of putting a thick/dense (in car protection terms) layer of something over your paint is that it can and most likely will affect the optics as it will not be optically pure, especially when it hardens. The 'graphene' coatings I suspect will be particularly jetting as they are darker to start with.

I'm not sure if you're familiar with the 'Zaino' finish, which is typified by a bright, clear, shiny, radiant etc finish. Feynlab ceramics have that kind of finish. It is very 'old school' sealanty in that it is not warm, or deep, or things that detract from the flake pop - exactly what I have always liked.

To the OP, there are lots of 6 month products. The easiest would be Sonax PNS, topped with BSD every 2nd wash, if you wash fortnightly. Another easy one would be Wowo's Crystal Sealant - wipe on, wipe straight off.

Of the coatings, I would opt for CarPro CQuartz Lite - I think it is in a sweet spot. You get a lot, so go to town with it (though it will harden eventually so use it up), it is really easy to use (but you do need to prep properly, like with any decent coating or coating lite product) and will last longer and perform for longer than CanCoat/Moonlight or the other Coating Lite's with perhaps the exception of Feynlab Ceramic Lite which costs lots more and you get less of.
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Old 10-09-2020, 09:58 AM   #27
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Apologies for the delay in replying. This is now my third attempt. Whether there is a time frame on this site, or not, each time I have gone to post the site informs me that I am not (no longer) signed in. As soon as I re sign in I lose the post! I am now into the third hour of this so I am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping to cut and paste this from my laptop.
Firstly to say many thanks for the above posts. I had previously attempted to illicit a response from Apex Detail, in2Detailing, Pan the organiser and forensic detailing re this problem but all without success. Your replies are very much appreciated.
The car was detailed in my garage and as a consequence it is difficult to know at exactly what stage the Audi’s paintwork became muted. In terms of time scale it had certainly happened after applying the one step master which was used almost immediately after polishing with essence (with a 12 hours gap). Out of desperation and to tone the wheels down to the car’s paintwork colour I applied the one step to one of the previously Gyeon coated wheels. The result was that the previously bright silver turned to just looking grubby.
Your post provides some great information re possible alternative coatings. I think that what I am now looking for is an extremely glossy, clear ceramic coat which will not mute the paint and which I can remove from the car relatively easily if the need arises (which is what I thought I was purchasing in the first place!). I am almost at the stage of being willing to buy anything regardless of cost to correct this problem as at seventy years of age am slightly embarrassed in front of my family and friends to find myself in this position.
It strikes me that jetting is a potentially significant issue for people with light coloured vehicles. It is difficult to believe that the review experts, if they were doing their job at all, shouldn’t have been aware of this problem and not have had a duty of care to inform potential purchasers.
Many thanks again for the posts. If any, I should welcome your further thoughts on the nature of the coating to use in replacement.
May I ask for a tag related to Atbalfour’s post re product testing for my information.
Has anyone determined which products, both short and long term, are prone to jetting and which not?
Best wishes – a very grateful Mac

Last edited by TheMac; 10-09-2020 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:05 AM   #28
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Another vote for optimum opti-seal. I've only just started using it as a drying aid after having it for years and I'm super impressed, it is really easy to apply. I wouldn't say it'll give you 6 months but it's so easy to do that I don't find that it matters. It isn't great when applying in the cold but if you get a few layers on now during the washes over september/october it'll see you through the winter right enough.
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:52 AM   #29
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Gyeon Can Coat not an option ?
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:54 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iCraig View Post
Thanks all.

I should have said Iím not a fan of paste waxes and I prefer spray on or liquid versions.

Are there any out there that break the magic 6 month barrier?
Quote:
Originally Posted by iCraig View Post
You donít have young children do you? A few minutes extra are something you donít have!

There is no obsession here with 6 months, I just want something I can put on my car short of a ceramic coat that I can Ďforgetí about for at least 6 months.
I know where you are coming from time wise! I would have suggested UHD Wax, but as you don't like paste waxes, how about Extra Gloss Protection? Gets you to the 4-6 months and easier on the wallet too.

Or another option, how about a monthly application of Polar Seal? Beads and beads, and lasts a long time too. Takes minutes to apply so will not extend your wash session by much at all. In fact, added all together, will be save you time overall vs 6 month application of a coating.
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