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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I get around to it, I will be tackling a couple of rust spots on my Saab using rattle cans (no facilities to do it properly using a gun these days). Neither are big or serious, just irritating. Because it's metallic, it will need a clearcoat but I always struggle with blending in the clearcoat to lose the edge of it.

One is a door bottom so I can just clear it up to the bump strip. The other is on the wheelarch and would require me to clear the entire quarter panel which really isn't practical with rattle cans.

Any tips on losing that edge?
 

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Mr Sparkle
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you can buy blending thinner in a rattle can

prep the area where you want to loose the edge with a grey scotch pad , flick the last coat of clear away a little bit then thinners over the edge to loose it

takes some practice to be good at it , id suggest clearing up to a swage line or the whole panel if need be
 

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I've not done loads of spraying but my technique (probably not the best, granted) is to clear over the repair once, then move my mask line up/out an inch then another coat. Then repeat. You don't end up with a line that way as it's spreading the clear over a slightly larger area. Obviously if you've done a large repair it may not work, but for a little rust blister it may. I've done it a few times, and although not the best technique I've always had reasonable results.
 

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As above really, the product is called spot blend.
It's a mixture of lacquer and thinners.

You can also use soft edge foam tape.

If you insist on using cans, I'd strongly recommend you use a 2k lacquer, I use this (eBay) 200965095908.

This is the results,

And they still look the same 3months on.
 

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A
If you insist on using cans, I'd strongly recommend you use a 2k lacquer, I use this (eBay) 200965095908.

This is the results,

And they still look the same 3months on.
Thats not 2k lacquer.

Its only 1k... HB body have admitted this in the past

2k lacquer in a can has a built in activator system. Making it 2k / 2 parts. Once activated it becomes like normal 2k and has to be used.
I think 2k lacquer in a can once activated has a pot life of about 3 hours
 

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Yeah I agree.
Very very very very dangerous product.
I would not recommend using 2k at home at all.
Only use cellulose in well vented area and even then use a gas mask and take regular breaks (I do my spraying the garage at my Mums house), spray my coats, wait the 20 mins in the living room, go back.. repeat until I **** off home haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have now retired from proper spraying because a) I'm not that great at it b) it tends to irritate the hell out of the neighbours. I can't get the colour in cellulose anyway and have no desire to kill myself with 2-pack so it has to be rattle cans.
 

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I've not done loads of spraying but my technique (probably not the best, granted) is to clear over the repair once, then move my mask line up/out an inch then another coat. Then repeat. You don't end up with a line that way as it's spreading the clear over a slightly larger area. Obviously if you've done a large repair it may not work, but for a little rust blister it may. I've done it a few times, and although not the best technique I've always had reasonable results.
Yeah, I can see the logic in that approach. Thanks for the tip! I've got some rust spots to sort out on my mates car this weekend so I might try it your way ;)
 
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