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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

The main reason for me signing up here was to get some advice on my Saabs paintwork. It's 19 years and 150k miles old, has taken some abuse and has had little in the way of love (if any) before I took over ownership just over 2 years ago.

It was my dad's, bought in about 2000, used for roughly 6/7 years and then stuck on my Grandad's drive under a tree for 4 years. I needed a big, practical family car so was handed the keys. It's needed amazingly little in terms of work, just a case of tidying it up as I go. The car satisfies my need for a practical family car, my need for modifying and my need for some power, so I've decided to spend some time and money on it to get to and keep it at a good standard for the next few years at least. The following pictures are in chronological order.



















From grey cloth to






Wheels refurbed, washed with Bilberry, then Poorboys Wheel Sealer then Collinite 845.








These pics show a good comparison between a typical tired 9000 (my dad's current one) and how far mine has come




Got a Megs clay bar kit on a bored sunday to give it a go. Was sceptical at first but made a massive difference, hard work though. Then hand polished with Megs Ultimate Polish and finished with Collinite 845








Which brings us up to the present day. I've just finished buying all the parts for phase 1, uprated clutch and gearbox freshen up with oil, mounts, linkage bushes etc renewed, and 2, Eibach progressive lowering springs, Bilstein shocks, new mix of poly and rubber bushes, new rod ends, drop links, ball joints, strut tops etc. I'll hopefully find the time to fit it all soon

Phase 3 is bodywork. I have an aero bodykit to be painted and go on to get it looking like this photoshop:


I've not yet decided on painting the kit myself or not (never painted plastic before), but I'll get the paint properly matched and a tin or two made up. While the body kit is being done two of the doors will be replaced due to rusty bottoms, but the car is covered in dents, stone chips, odd bits of paint damage and lacquer peel.

I'm basically looking for any advice with regards to sorting these issues and what products to buy to get the best out of it. I've read up on the stone chip guide on here, not sure if the same methods can be applied to the 'odd bits of damage', and how do you solve little bits of lacquer peel dotted about the car? I'll probably get a pro in to take out the dents using their special tools, but are there any decent DIY methods for the usual car park dents? Have seen but not tried the focused aerosole cooling followed by a hair dryer, and what about these on ebay?

I'm also a bit confused about the stages of paint correction and protection, no mater how many guides I read my confusion gets worse.

The damage, could this be tree sap? It's all over the roof and bonnet.












This very odd movemement of the windscreen rubber seems to happen on 9000s too


Lacquer peel like this is typical around the car, mainly around exterior trim on vertical surfaces
Is this something I can wet sand back and respray with lacquer?




So the equipment I have/am planning on getting, procedure and the products are:
Hose rinse.
Snow foam (planning on buying it all soon)
Hose rinse.
Wheels using Hot Wheels if bad, then Bilberry. Appplied with wheel brush and MF cloth. Occasionally clay barred, polished, sealed and waxed too.
Wash using two bucket method and Mucoff Ubershine (£1.99 at Screwfix so couldn't resist getting a few). Currently using only a MF noodle mit but will get a wool mit to do the top half of the car.
Hose rinse.
Pat dry using MF drying towel (will buy this soon)
Clay using Megs clay and QD (will replace this with Bilt Hamber Regular Clay when the Megs runs out).

Here's where I get a bit lost. I'm planning on buying the CYC DAS-6 Menzerna kit - so will assume machine polishing. The kit comes with FG500, IP2100, PO106FA and PO85RD. I currently have Megs Ultimate Polish and Collinite 845. What should I be using on which pad? Are there any better products recommended either for finish or to work better with the car's colour? Should I be looking at glazes and sealants, if so, what? I was under the impressionyou use a polish, followed by a wax etc. but some things I've read (and the menzerna kit use) several different grades in one detail?

Is there any other finish for the bodywork that should follow? What should I use on the plastic-rubbery trim?

How and what do people recommend for cleaning the windows, I've never been able to get a very good smear-free finish using AG Fast Glass.

For the leather I use Glyptone Liquid Leather product and am happy with them, plus the seats are slightly worn and tired which suits me as I don't care too much when shifting about heavy loads etc, or my daughter which is about the messiest thing that can happen to a car

What about interior plastics? Currently have AG Rubber & Vinyl Care but it's coming to an end and would like to try something else.

Think that about covers everything - but I'm hoping to get some of the recommended bit for Christmas so I'm in a bit of a rush :D Thanks in advance for the help :buffer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Dandam. At the beginning of the summer it felt and looked really tired and I considered getting rid and buying the E39 Touring Sport I'd wanted for ages. But I'd get nothing for the Saab and would have to spend a lot more to buy a decent E39 that would still have 100k mile suspension etc, so decided to stick with Saab and spend the money I would have spent on the E39 on getting it up to par with what I want. They're also starting to go up in value which numbs the pain of spending double the car's value on it :lol:

Thanks Dazzle and sorry to the mods for putting it in the wrong sub-section :(

Have just seen this linked on Project Puma, nice little guide that I can understand http://forum.dodojuice.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3052

Step 1 - Pre-Rinse: this process can involve rinsing the car down with clear water, 'snow-foaming' using a pressure washer lance, or even a traffic film remover like Dodo-Juice Crudzilla depending upon the level of grime.

Step 2 - Clean Wheels: Use a dedicated wheel cleaner like Mellow Yellow and a collection of brushes (An EZ-Detail Mini for the spokes/barrels, and a Swissvax Detail brush for the faces and around the lug-nuts are my choice.) to remove the brake dust embedded in your wheels.
Hot Wheels Wonder Wheels, Bilberry Wheel Cleaner.

Step 3 - Degreasing: Fill a spray bottle with a concentrated All-Purpose-Cleaner (Meguiar's D103 APC+, Optimum Power Clean, R222 Total Auto Wash, 1Z Einszett Blitz, or Bilt-Hamber Surfex HD, for example.) diluted to an appropriate level, and in combination with the same detailing brushes I listed above, use this solution to deep clean your tyres, trim, door jambs, and optionally your engine bay in preparation for later dressing.
Bilt Hamber Surfex HD

Step 4 - Wash: Use (A) the 2-bucket method with a ph-neutral shampoo like Basics of Bling, Born to be Mild, or Supernatural shampoo; or (B) rinseless wash using Low on Eau*. For 2BM washes, I absolutely adore my Short Haired Wookie wash mitten, though it does require a lot of upkeep, so I would recommend a semi-synthetic mitten like the Tribble, Basics of Bling Microfiber Sponge, or the Supernatural Sponge for beginners.
MucOff Ubershine, MF Nooble Mit + Sheep/LambsWool Mit

* Read my reply in this thread for more information on rinseless washing: http://www.dodojuice.com/juicebar/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2950&p=22629#p22629.

Step 5 - Dry: You can use a waffle weave towel (I like the Microfiber Madness Waverider in this category; these are durable, and do not lint.), a dense pile microfiber towel (Dodo-Juice Double-Plush is my personal favorite, as it is the gentlest on the finish, though it can hold some lint.), and or a forced-air dryer (These are similar to the warm-air blower used by pet groomers, and are something of an investment, though the low-rent alternative is to use a leaf blower ;).) to assure that all cleaned areas are perfectly dry.

Step 6 - Tar Removal (Optional): If you have a lot of tar, adhesive, or rubber debris left on the finish, it is wise to use a dedicated tar remover (Either a citrus-solvent based product like Dodo-Juice Tarmalade or Supernatural Tar & Glue Remover, or a petroleum-solvent based product like Auto-Finesse ObliTARate or Autosmart TARDIS.). Spray or dab on the product to the effected area, and wipe off with a microfiber to remove the offending debris.

Step 7 - Iron Removal (Optional): A lot of modern cars suffer from ferrous metallic fallout, which can be caused by brake dust from other cars in close traffic, metalwork near your vehicle, or being in close proximity to railroad tracks. Examples of iron removers are CarPro IronX, Auto-Finesse Iron Out, and Wolf's Chemicals WF-1P.

Step 8 - Rinse with clear water to remove residue from fallout removal products

Step 9 - Clay: Using a detailing clay bar helps to remove imbedded contamination from your paintwork that is missed in previous fallout removal stages, and helps to prep the finish for following detailing steps. Lubricate the surface using a fine mist of a dedicated lube like Born to be Slippy (Though you can use a shampoo mixture in a spray bottle if you're in a bind.), divide your clay bar (Dodo-Juice Gentle Gray, Supernatural, or Supernatural Medium would all be ideal; Purposeful Purple may be a bit strong for your application.) into 3-6 pieces, and using only finger-tip pressure rub the piece of clay against the finish until you can feel it gliding smoothly. Frequently inspect the clay, and re-knead it as necessary to expose a fresh surface to prevent instilling marring. When the clay bar no longer exposes a clean surface after kneading, throw that piece away, and use a new piece. A little tip is to also clay your windscreen, as this helps to improve wiper function, and increase clarity.
Megs Clay kit + Bilt Hamber Regular Clay

Step 10 - Re-Rinse, and repeat drying stage.

Step 11 - Correction (Optional): Using abrasive compounds and polishes, you can re-level the paintwork to remove major defects including scratches, and moderate to heavy swirling. As your are removing paint, it is something of a more advanced process, and one which I do not recommend to detailers in their first 1-2 years. You can perform this operation by hand, but it is hugely time consuming, and made much easier by either electric Dual-Action or Rotary polisher.
Megs Ultimate Polish + DAS-6

Step 12 - Glazing/Cleansing: Applying a glaze or paintwork cleanser helps to increase gloss, depth, clarity, wetness, remove or obscure light marring, strip previous wax layers, and create a slick finish for subsequent waxing or sealing. Dodo-Juice Lime Prime Lite is a non-abrasive oil-based glaze containing cleansing solvents, and will do little to remove wash marring, but will leave behind a very high gloss. Supernatural Micro-Prime contains a very mild diminishing abrasive that can achieve similar gloss levels to LPL, but can also remove minor defects. Lime Prime contains glazing oils AND diminishing abrasives, and is the most aggressive of these three products. I would personally advise using Micro-Prime to prep, as on some very soft finishes (Which Japanese cars stereotypically have.), Lime Prime can be a little too aggressive. Stick to a small area (18"X18") at a time, and use either a microfiber or multi-layer foam applicator to work the product into the finish; remove the residue with a soft microfiber towel only once the product has been fully broken down.

Step 13 - Waxing/Sealing: At the base end of the Dodo-Juice wax spectrum are the 'Core-8' waxes, which are Dodo-Juice's original wax blends. What are classified as the 'Soft Waxes' (Rainforest Rub, Purple Haze, Orange Crush, and Light Fantastic.) are the easiest to work with, and create the wettest finish due to the high oil content. However, they are also the easiest to over-apply, so be careful. Next up in line are the 'Pro' semi-synthetic waxes, Rubbish Boy's Juiced Edition, and finally Supernatural/Supernatural Hybrid. All Dodo-Juice waxes from my experience are very easy to use, and punch well above their price bracket in regards to performance/appearance. Having said that, the Supernatural line is truly something special, though not quite as forgiving as the Core-8 waxes. I would recommend to start with a soft core-8 wax (Orange Crush was a good choice.), and work your way up to the Supernatural series once you have attained more skill, as they are very pure, and are most rewarding on perfectly prepared finishes. The core-8 waxes in my experience will provide 6-12 weeks of durability if properly maintained, which is very good for a wax of this price bracket, though if you eventually need more durability, Supernatural Hybrid can easily offer 6-months of protection. Always remember to apply Dodo-Juice waxes as thin as you possibly can (The Supernatural and Basics of Bling Finger applicators help a lot in trying to do this.), and do not allow them to bake on; the core-8 waxes typically only need 3-10 minutes depending upon the ambient temperature before removal. If the wax re-hazes (Typically a sign you either applied it too thickly, or did not fully remove the residue.), a spritz and buff with ice-cold water will sort that problem very easily, and this also helps to 'flash-cure' the wax before applying additional coats. Dodo-Juice waxes benefit greatly from applying multiple coats, which enhances the wetness, depth, and durability they can offer. Applying 3-6 coats will also increase the 'Colour Charging' effect of the core-8 waxes, which tends to be almost unnoticeable after just a single coat.
Collinite 845

Step 14 - Metal Polishing: Using a metal polish like the Dodo-Juice Supernatural Metal Polish Trio will help to brighten up the finish of metal and chrome components, like exhaust tips, badges, and brightwork trim. Applying a durable sealant like Supernatural Hybrid, or even a quick spray-on sealant like Supernatural Acrylic-Spritz will help to maintain this polished finish, and minimize future oxidation.
Autosol

Step 15 - Trim Dressing: By applying a trim dressing like Fantastic Plastic, or even a trim coating like Supernatural Satin/Gloss Trim Sealant, you can protect your hard plastic trims from fading, and turning grey due to UV-exposure. This quick step will give the plastic on your car a dark, subtle sheen, and helps to compliment the rest of your detailing work. Nothing lets down a nicely detailed car like manky trim ;). Fantastic Plastic is very easy to apply, so it would be my recommendation. SN Trim sealant is a semi-permanent quartz-resin coating, and can be a little bit more finicky to use, so I would leave that until you get a bit more experience under your belt. FP will net you 3-12 weeks of durability depending upon your location and vehicle usage, though SN Trim Sealant can protect the trim for up to a year, so it may be worth investigating in the long run.

Step 16 - Wheel Sealing (Optional): Sealing your wheels allows you to maintain them with just shampoo, and eschew regular use of wheel cleaners, which can get expensive. It's a time consuming process, and requires you to go through the same preparation steps (6-11) that I outlined for paintwork, so many people find it simpler to just use a dedicated wheel cleaner as part of their normal wash regimen. However, if you do choose to seal your wheels, I would recommend using either Supernatural Acrylic-Spritz, or Dodo-Juice Supernatural Hybrid, as these are the only two products in the Dodo-Juice lineup at this point in time that are able to withstand the heat, and durable enough to be worth your time for this application.
Poorboys Wheel Seal

Step 17 - Tyre Dressing: This serves the same purpose as trim dressing, and is equally important. Dodo-Juice offers two products at this point in time for this application: Tyromania and Supernatural Tyre Dressing. Tyromania is a bit of an acquired taste, as it is actually a black-tinted wax, and provides a very natural finish. The application is very similar to applying a shoe polish, and you can increase the gloss level from a matte to a satin finish by buffing it with the aid of a water spritz once it is fully cured. Tyromania is a personal favorite of mine, as it is very durable (1-month minimum in my experience.), and tyres treated with this product stay much cleaner. Another option is Supernatural Tyre dressing, which being a liquid dressing has a much more straightforward wipe-on application procedure, and provides a satin finish right out of the bottle. It isn't as durable as Tyromania, but on the other hand, it's also easier to top-up, so your choice really depends upon personal preference.

Step 18 - Door Jambs: A little professional trick is to polish and wax the door jambs as you would the exterior paint; this makes them easier to clean, and helps to complete the 'freshly detailed' appearance.
Megs UP, Collinite 845

Step 19 - Interior Detailing: At this point in time, Dodo-Juice does not offer any interior detailing products, so I will try to keep this section brief. Also, as your car is new, you won't really have to do anything more than give everything a thorough vacuuming, and treat the leather/vinyl/plastics. This later stage is going to be very important, as Australia's climate is on the warm side, and also has a high UV-index which will quickly break down interior plastics/vinyl. Most detailers like a very matte, OEM-type finish, so favor products like Optimum Protectant Plus, Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer, Auto-Finesse Spritz, or Jeff's Werkstat Satin-Prot. I tend to like a slightly darker finish, and as I also live in a hot climate, I use CarPro PERL coat at a 5:1 dilution on my interior trim. This provides a UV-block equivalent to SPF40, is very economical, and does not add too much gloss.

Step 20 - Glass Cleaning: I like to clean the glass as one of the last stages, as this way I can deal with drips, and product overspray. If you have a good drying technique, you will really only need to use a dedicated cleaner on the interior glass, though if your drying towel lints (A big pet-peeve of mine.) you will want to do the outside as well. The trick to achieving perfect clarity is in using a good glass cleaner like Dodo-Juice Clearly menthol, in combination with a dedicated waffle-weave microfiber towel like the Supernatural window waffle, and checking the glass from multiple angles with a good light source.

Step 21 - Glass Sealing (Optional): Glass sealants like Dodo-Juice Supernatural Glass Sealant help to clear water from the windscreen during a rain, and can even minimize the need for wipers. I personally find this a key safety feature, as it prevents water from pooling on the screen, and minimizes windscreen wiper streaking, which both enhance visibility. Like any other area of detailing, research, patience, and a meticulous mindset are the keys to success. Closely adhere to the instructions of whichever product you choose, and you won't go very wrong. Dodo-Juice's glass sealant is reputed to be one of the best on the market, though other companies like GTechniq, Nanolex, Wolf's Chemicals, and PPG also have decent products for this application.

Step 22 - Quick Detailing (Optional): The final stage of any detail I do is quick detailing, as this removes any dust/product residue that might have accumulated on the paintwork whilst I was attending to other stages, and also helps me to mop up any pesky water drips from mirrors and door handles without leaving mineral deposits. Basics of Bling QD or Supernatural Carnauba-Glaze would be perfect for this role, and will also help to maintain the finish after washing during future maintenance. Both of these are carnauba-based, and will fit very naturally in with the appearance of your wax. Dodo-Juice Red Mist Tropical and Supernatural Acrylic-Spritz are a bit different, as these are actually synthetic spray sealants, and are typically used to add protection once your LSP is nearing the end of its effective life. They will alter the appearance of your wax finish, and will instill a very glossy, 'crisp' look, with much more defined high-angle reflections. You will lose a little bit of warmth and wetness in the process, which on some finishes is a worthy trade off, though I would experiment a little bit first to make sure that this is a look you like. RMT is a solvent based product, and will strip your wax if applied too soon, so I would wait a week, and apply it after your first maintenance wash if this is a product you want to integrate into your routine. SN Acrylic-Spritz is waterborne, and can be applied as soon as you want.
Megs QD

Hopefully this helps to clarify the detailing process, and gives you a comprehensive explanation of the Dodo-Juice line. I would repeat this full process 2-4 times a year depending upon usage, re-wax after washing/QD'ing as often as the mood strikes you, re-treat your interior/exterior trim/rubber as often as seems necessary, and repeat steps 1, 2, 4, and 5 every 1-2 weeks, and steps 20 and 22 every 2-3. Remember to always work in the shade (Or preferably in a climate controlled space.), follow the instructions, take your time, practice your technique on things less important than your car (I waxed my computer, clayed my showever, polished my model cars, and cleaned every piece of glass in the house before I felt confident in my abilities.). The first year or two of detailing is just spent honing your wash technique, so I wouldn't try to undertake too much at once. If it becomes stressful, scale things back; detailing is supposed to be enjoyable, so try to have fun. You're already off to a good start by buying good products; this is a lesson most people don't learn for years, and results in a lot of frustration.

If you have any more questions, do not be afraid to ask; we are always very happy to help. Also, be sure to post photos of your Subie once it is 'Freshly Juiced', as I am sure we would all love to see your results :grinthumb: .
Red is what I own, blue is what I plan on getting, anything with nothing is something I don't know about. Obviously if there are better products than the ones I'm using, please say :D

So I still need: Drying towel, tar remover, iron remover, ?cutting compound/heavier polish, glaze, paint sealant, trim dressing, tyre dressing, interior dressing, glass cleaner, glass sealant, QD (megs is running out), APC.
 

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Where the clear coat is flaking away on the doors, a good tip for that is to wet sand the edge of the clear coat with 2000 and machine buff up, it will take the lip/edge off from the clear coat flakeyness and blend in with the base coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks, although shouldn't the lacquer be reapplied after the wet sanding? I intend to get the stone chips and lacquer peel sorted in the near future and probably the dents. The rust and full correction will have to wait until the bodykit goes on I think.

Would this be considered a light or dark car? I've been recommended Poorboys White Diamond Glaze for the Silver Puma but not sure if it would work on this?

Edit:
or is Megs Ultimate Polish actually a glaze for dark cars, as categorised on CYC? :confused: so confusing. In which case, what polish is recommended?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Weather depending I'm hoping for some kind of update on this. I bought myself a fairly large order from cyc including the DAS6 Pro with the CG hex pads and meg's 105 and 205, along with other bits and a couple more pads.

My question today is to do with machine polishing plastics. The rear decor panel of the 9000 shows up the scratches very easily and is your typical plastic. Will I need a specific pad or product to polish the scratches out or will the megs combo be ok? I also have farecla g4 which I've used on headlights by hand to good effect.

Can this also be used on glass eg windscreens, or does this require a harsher cutting compound, as I guess glass is a fair bit harder than the hardest of paints.

My list of chosen products
Step 1 - Pre-Rinse: Karcher K2 + CYC Snow Foam Lance + Valet Pro PH Neutral Snow Foam
Step 2 - Clean Wheels: Hot Wheels Wonder Wheels, Bilberry Wheel Cleaner
Step 3 - Degreasing: Bilt Hamber Surfex HD
Step 4 - Wash: MucOff Ubershine/Megs Gold Class, Sheepskin mit (top)/MF Nooble Mit (bottom)
Step 5 - Dry: CG Wooly Mammoth
Step 6 - Tar Removal (Optional): Autosmart Tardis
Step 7 - Iron Removal (Optional): Angelwax Revelation
Step 8 - Rinse with clear water to remove residue from fallout removal products
Step 9 - Clay: Megs/Bilt Hamber Regular
Step 10 - Re-Rinse, and repeat drying stage.
Step 11 - Correction (Optional): DAS6 Pro, Megs 105, Megs Ultimate Compound, Megs 205
Step 12 - Glazing/Cleansing: Megs Ultimate Polish
Step 13 - Waxing/Sealing: Collinite 845/Megs Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium Wax
Step 14 - Metal Polishing: Autosol
Step 15 - Trim Dressing: Angelwax Elixir
Step 16 - Wheel Sealing (Optional): Poorboys Wheel Sealant
Step 17 - Tyre Dressing: Angelwax Elixir
Step 18 - Door Jambs: Megs 205, Collinite 845
Step 19 - Interior Detailing: Angelwax AnGel
Step 20 - Glass Cleaning: Angelwax Superior Auto Glass Cleaner
Step 21 - Glass Sealing (Optional): Angelwax H2GO
Step 22 - Quick Detailing (Optional): Megs QD/Angelwax QED
Might get Poorboys EX-P too to experiment with the kind of finish a sealant gives the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First Go At Machine Polishing - Some Advice Please

After my first attempt with the DAS6 some things didn't go as I'd hoped, so looking to get some feedback if possible.

I used my girlfriend's Puma as a test mule as it was recently fully clayed and hand polished so was already in a fairly good state, whereas the 9000 needs a bit of work still.

So Saturday morning I do the wash and decontamination and readied myself for a go with the polisher. I did a test section on the bonnet as people advise; to be honest the UC didn't fully take out the scratch however I was a bit worried about going as far as 105 on the orange pad after a few bits I'd read whereby people had been too aggressive with it. In hindsight I'm sure it would have been fine.

I used the green pad with the UC, but it took ages and I wasn't too impressed. It didn't seem to cut very well, dried up very very quickly and the pad clogged up constantly making it hard to work with. Took most of the day but eventually finished and packed away for the night.

Troubleshooting that night I read a few more guides on using a DA and learned that I hadn't primed the pad, I think I was also being a bit too gentle and not putting enough pressure down. The other thing I learned was that it's important to clean the pad every few section passes, and for this I planned to use this technique.

The next morning I set up to go again, but wasn't going to repeat the UC. The surface correction was fine, it was only medium and heavier scratches that remained visible from close and as this was a beginners test, I left it.

So on with the Megs 205 with the white pad, primed as per the Mike Phillips guide, in fact everything was taken from his guides. The first few section passes seemed ok, but then it completely clogged up and the pad seemed dry (it wasn't at all). It was hard to tell as it's a silver car, but it didn't leave a nice trail of worked product like his vids show. I'm really not sure what I was doing wrong.

Pad cleaning didn't work either, 205 kept forming a thick greasy layer on the pad and refused to come off meaning all the pores in the centre of the pad just clogged. The Mike Phillips technique didn't work, I tried spinning it on a slow speed in a bucket of water and then letting the centrifugal force dry it, I used a toothbrush to agitate and try to work the pores free. Just didn't work.


Eventually finished the car and went over it with Ultimate Polish and a blue pad as the glaze. This was fine, primed pad, and used a few new pea sized drops for each new panel. I found the UC and UP washed out of the pad easily as I guess they're water soluble, whereas the 205 definitely isn't, so any advice on how to get it out of the pad would be appreciated? After all that I was glad to pack the machine polisher away and put Collinite 845 on by hand.

So, questions are:
1. Technique for DA cutting and polishing?
2. How do I know I have the right amount of product?
3. How to clean the pads and unblock the pores?
4. Any other advice?

Currently my technique for correction is to prime pad + 3 peas, spread product over 20" x 20" area with machine off, 2 quick section passes on speed 2, 4 section passes on speed 6 at 1-2" per second with roughly 15lbs pressure, buff off residue.

Eventually finished the car (bar hoovering, seats and inside glass cleaning) just before it started spitting, and it was pretty dark so didn't manage to get many good photos as I'm a bit rubbish with a camera. Overall though I'm happy with the finish and other than megs 205, very happy with all the new products, particularly the Angelwax stuff.











The only half decent shot, unfortunately a rusty and dismantled Mini was blocking the other half of the Puma and location isn't exactly 'scenic'.


Thanks for any help :thumb:
 

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I've never faced the issues you're having with the pads so can't help there I'm afraid.

I will say though and this is just friendly advice and just my opinion but I think you're posting too much info and asking too many questions at a time to get a reasonable response to your questions. This also makes me feel like you're just over thinking everything. I appreciate it can be daunting and a head **** when you're just starting out, but try and break it down a bit. Just relax and enjoy it, practice and you'll answer most of your own questions.

I don't mean to be dismissive, but some of those posts are great big walls of questions. It would take some serious effort to answer them all concisely for you.

I would just rather see you enjoy the process than be packing away your DA in frustration as you elude to.

One thing you could try to clear the pad is set it running on a slow speed, held tightly, then invert your toothbrush and use the tip of the handle. Stick it in the centre of the pad and slow move it to the outer edge. This works well for cleaning smooth pads. No idea on hex pads though.

Good luck :thumb:
 
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