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I’m guessing they appear after jetwashing where water spots dried when I had to move my car(petrol station jetwash) for contact washing. It didn’t happen last time, maybe because of temperature today was higher.
 

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You will get water spots from a petrol station jet wash, simply because of the airborne contamination there, thing is with lustrous plus in most cases it will just wipe away with water if the car is clean, Praefulgeo wouldn't work as a drying aid, even diluted and will smear and haze, completely different breed of sealant is Praefulgeo.
 
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Not topping the car would be my recommendation. Or if you feel like it's required, using something extremely light like CarPro Ech20 diluted @ 1:25.

Never wash in direct sunlight or when panels are hot, or no matter the process or products use you will get water spotting.

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If you top any sealant you automatically lose its benefits and replace them with what's on top, I would just wipe down with ice cold water and recoat, but then again I've never really been a fan of using one product then topping it with another, Praefulgeo will sit happily over any other coating but wouldn't put it over lustrous Plus, because personally I like the look of LP, if I were to do that though I'd be finishing it with the aforementioned ice cold water to finish with.
 
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I’m applying it now in shade, seems ok, still working out how best to apply it. I’m doing about 6 or 7 small or half sprays into a MF and doing it on say a 3x3 section at a time, working it in well and buffing off. Roughly 30 seconds till buff off by the time I’ve spread it round. Buffing it off seems to leave a slight residue, would I be best with a damp cloth and then buff off to help?

Done 70% of a 1 Series and barely used any really
 

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I’m applying it now in shade, seems ok, still working out how best to apply it. I’m doing about 6 or 7 small or half sprays into a MF and doing it on say a 3x3 section at a time, working it in well and buffing off. Roughly 30 seconds till buff off by the time I’ve spread it round. Buffing it off seems to leave a slight residue, would I be best with a damp cloth and then buff off to help?

Done 70% of a 1 Series and barely used any really
Russell may advise whether HDD have sent you the latest mix, or an earlier batch. What you are describing to me would sound like the early batch and I found applying a little more product into the applicator and spreading before wiping off with a second towel was the way to go. Any light residue that has already flashed and doesn't wipe off immediately can be re-activated with a spritz of water or wetting via a damp cloth. I found that the earlier batch needed to be shaken regularly and had very little tolerance to be used in the wind, higher temps or in direct sun, where the new batch is a LOT more forgiving.
 

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So I washed and decontaminated the car on Monday night only for it to start to spot/drizzle. Being thick headed I proceeded to apply the Lustrous anyway and can confirm goes on fine with added water.

So last night I went to wash the car again to properly apply Lustrous and was amazed by the layer ai had already put down in less than great conditions. The beading when rinsing the snowfoam was great, as was how easy rinsing the snowfoam and then shampoo off. Drying the car was breeze, so then I applied another layer and the results were great considering she hasn't been polished at all since last year. I hope this will last as long as you guys have been seeing, but living by the sea seems to kill LSPs much quicker for me.

What I was looking for was a can coat replacement without the cure time (no garage) and seems to fit the bill. One question, I assume ai would need to break out the DA to remove if required?

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Difficult to say which batch you have really, unless it came with a note then it would be the better version, shouldn't really smear as the solvent evaporates rapidly leaving a layer of graphene behind, all I can think of is even in the shade the panel temps may bea little high, damp cloth should resolve it though
 

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I'm currently in the process of correcting my car. So far I've done the bonnet and roof, applying Lustrous to both. I'm liking the slight darkening effect it has on the paint and the water beading isn't bad either! I have the stronger version and I'm applying it with a CarPro Quartz foam finger block applicator. 3-4 sprays directy into the foam and the I apply to maybe a secton of 2 square feet. I struggled when I applied it to the bonnet but it was a very hot day and I didn't have enough shade. The roof was better but you really do need to work in small sections and buff almost immediately. Thankfully I'm used to this kind of application as I'm also a WoWo's Crystal Sealant user! Anyway I'm looking forward to seeing how long it holds up given I applied it to corrected and absolutely bare paint!
 

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Still using & triailling in various applications.

SiRamik topped with PA

PA topped with SiRamik
Just one question ............. why?

When you top Lustrous you will get the hydrophobics, looks and performance of that product, and loose the attributes of Lustrous.

When you apply Lustrous on top of another product, rather than bare and cleansed paint, you will compromise the durability of Lustrous.

Alan W
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
Just one question ............. why?

When you top Lustrous you will get the hydrophobics, looks and performance of that product, and loose the attributes of Lustrous.

When you apply Lustrous on top of another product, rather than bare and cleansed paint, you will (probably) compromise the durability of Lustrous.

Alan W
Agreed, it's the best LSP for durability, but lacks the PA look for me.

Decided to try it with a mix of the above.

My logic was to lock in the PA look. PA High Gloss & SiRamik sitting on top.

SiRamik as a base & PA Cosmic on top as it's used this way for ceramics.

And a stand alone which is a fantastic product for durability.

I use to trial a similar thing 15-20yrs ago with sealants & waxes.
 

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You will only do 2 things if you top another product, that is weaken lustrous plus and potentially strip what's underneath anyway, unless it's a full blown coating that withstands high solvent content.
 
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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
You will only do 2 things if you top another product, that is weaken lustrous plus and potentially strip what's underneath anyway, unless it's a full blown coating that withstands high solvent content.
Thanks Russ 👍

I guessed as much.

Do you happen to do/ looking into a higher gloss version of SiRamik?

That is my only gripe with the product, as PA still edges it for looks and more suited to a garage queen than a daily driver.
 

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You will only do 2 things if you top another product, that is weaken lustrous plus and potentially strip what's underneath anyway, unless it's a full blown coating that withstands high solvent content.
I’ve topped my freshly applied (2 weeks) Exo V4 with Lustrous (been paint corrected). Don’t rate Exo that much and had some spare to use, and then found Lustrous
 

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Thanks Russ 👍

I guessed as much.

Do you happen to do/ looking into a higher gloss version of SiRamik?

That is my only gripe with the product, as PA still edges it for looks and more suited to a garage queen than a daily driver.
You could try the full blown lustrous coating itself, or the tried, tested and wetter than an otters pocket SC15 underneath Lustrous Plus, every SiRamik product is developed to perform, graphene is a new breed so had to be durability first, which is undeniably outstanding, thing is because it's not rGO (reduced graphene oxide) like 99% of other spray sealants or QD's it doesn't incorporate anything that could affect its durability, even the full blown coatings of certain others contain no true graphene.

This is not to say rGO is a bad thing because it's not, we have currently a trial with it on something that covers two areas in one, in the meantime just enjoy the ease of use and durability of lustrous plus.
 
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Perhaps try different finishing product or learn the art of jewelling the paint, as that's where 99% of the gloss comes from. With PA it's all in the mind, been down that rabbit hole and thankfully found sense again.. I'm sure you "guessed as much"..

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A lot have applied SC15 outside without issue, as with everything just be mindful of the weather. The good thing about SC15 is it can be easily repaired within 7 days if you do see any high spots.
 
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