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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Something like this probably exists but can't put my hand on it...

If you've read or stumbled upon a process that works really well you know what to do!

A couple from me to kick things off.. particularly relevant given the recent weather...

- When impossible to avoid washing a car in direct sunlight or warm temperatures rinse the panels to cool them before pre washing. Prior to the contact wash, find a long dwelling, sun safe shampoo (many of these are made in the US) and foam the car again... as well as the added lubrication, this helps keep temperatures down especially where you've a dark coloured car and the paint gets that bit hotter. Where possible & the car isn't that dirty, leave the panels in direct sunlight to the very end to minimise the gap between washing and rinsing.

- When using a heavy duty wheel cleaner or fallout remover on wheels in the sun, lower the temp by rinsing and place a cardboard box, rubber floor tile or other object in a way that it blocks sunlight hitting each wheel, allowing to the chemicals achieve the maximum dwell time without drying out.
 

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Great Idea Adam (y) and further to your warm weather tips above I'll add that Adam's (no relation :LOL:) Car Wash Shampoo (blue) is specially formulated to reduce water spotting in direct sunlight and warm weather as they state:

Its so gentle in fact that its better than ever at suspending the mineral content of your water and reducing water spots, even in full sunlight.

Alan W
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep.. Its the one I use too and perfect for the job. Shame it doesn't contain corrosion inhibitors.. Have thought about mixing a little atom mac into it but reluctant to play amateur scientist

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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I actually wash, rinse and dry a panel at a time when washing a dark car in very warm weather, its a bit fussy but works.
Onr is another option for 1 panel at a time cleaning.
All depending on how dirty the car is
I have found am details Shampoo good in warm weather, i dont know if its realated to adams shampoo in anyway 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah saw that, even more reason to keep the snow foam dwelling on the panel rather than constantly trying to spray the surface. It works as a barrier to the light and provides more prolonged cooling

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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  • Self-amalgamating rubber tape is cheap and a great way to make a lot of the tools we use grippier with wet hands (e.g. brush handles, bucket handles, bottle necks/triggers, PW trigger grips)
  • Buy a 5 litre container of DI water and use it to keep a spray bottle filled. At the end of rinsing your car, spray the DI water into wing mirrors, door handles and other crevices that trap water to avoid water spots after you've dried your car
  • When parking your car in areas when the air smells damp or has other odours, place your ventilation system in recirculation mode before you turn off the car to limit smells entering the vehicle
  • A few drops of cabin scent or essential oils can be placed on your cabin air filter to help more evenly distribute the fragrance and to somewhat improve its longevity
  • When cleaning your windows, don't forget to drop each window down an inch so you can clean the top edge of the glass that gets covered by the window seal
  • When you're done applying foam to the car, detach the foam bottle and run plain water through the foam lance to stop the steel mesh from gunking up with dried foam
  • Many glass cleaners can also be used as and effective panel wipe/inspection spray and water spot remover
  • Keep some makeup pads and a small bottle of ONR(or similar) in the car to deal with bird bombs and other contamination while you're out and about
  • Add a little shampoo directly to your wash mitt in addition to the bucket for more lubrication without excessive suds
  • Before you start each wash, walk around the car once to identify any areas that might need special attention or care
  • In warmer weather to give prewashes a longer dwell time, mist your car with the pressure washer from a longer distance
  • A leather steering wheel can be given a more effective deep clean by soaking a towel in hot water and then wrapping it around the wheel a setion at a time to allow the pores in the leather to open. After the section warms for a few minutes, an APC wipe will remove more ingrained dirt
  • When rinsing your car, go slowly, aiming to keep the same distance from the panel at all times and rinse from the bottle of the vehicle to the top, keeping your PW/hose angled slightly towards the ground
Some of these are obvious, some less so, but that's all I can think of right now!
 

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  • Self-amalgamating rubber tape is cheap and a great way to make a lot of the tools we use grippier with wet hands (e.g. brush handles, bucket handles, bottle necks/triggers, PW trigger grips)
This is a good shout, I've got some Work Stuff brushes which have shiny plastic handles that are really slippery when wet so I've ordered some of this and will give it a go.
 

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@macmark: here's an example of some workstuff, valetpro and carpro brushes I did. You can see on the larger WS brush that some of the tape is tearing. This is because I stretched it a little too much.

This tip also helps make brushes and other tools safer to use around the car as the rubber is less likely cause scratches if an accent happens. I also wrapped the nozzles of my PW in a similar fashion.
 

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A top detailing tip a friend gave me recently (hopefully I dont cover old ground)

When rinsing (or even final rinsing) after using a thick foam, dont forget to give the panel gaps a good rinse. This will stop foam sitting in the door jams!
 

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@macmark: here's an example of some workstuff, valetpro and carpro brushes I did. You can see on the larger WS brush that some of the tape is tearing. This is because I stretched it a little too much.

This tip also helps make brushes and other tools safer to use around the car as the rubber is less likely cause scratches if an accent happens. I also wrapped the nozzles of my PW in a similar fashion.
I'm glad I got the 10m roll now (y)
 

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Some general ones

  • Make sure you have your chemicals ready - you dont want to be halfway through a job and running out. Especially for stuff like fallout removers, wheel cleaners etc.
  • Rotate! - we're all guilty of buying too much stuff, but try and get through the old stuff before it expires/goes funny. If you're not going to use it sell it or give it away - cuts down on wastage

A more specific one (and controversial)

Pad rotation doesnt matter on a DA - the biggest thing I took from the LC/KDS training day I went to - on a DA its the 'throw' or oscillation that does the work rather than the spinnyness of the pad.
 

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The biggest change I made that made the biggest difference by far was simply slow down and have a bit of patience. Never one known for my patience in general so takes a huge effort on my part but so worth it, results are there to prove it.

Also, when I can I wear headphones and listen to a podcast. I find it distracts me from what is going on around me and makes me concentrate on the task in hand. I can't always as I often have the dog outside with me so need to keep an eye and ear on him.
 

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Whenever I'm using a QD, glass cleaner etc, the trigger on the spray head acts as a very useful hook, and hooks rhe bottle nicely into the pocket of my jeans to free up my hands for folding the cloths etc.

Cooks
 

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The biggest change I made that made the biggest difference by far was simply slow down and have a bit of patience. Never one known for my patience in general so takes a huge effort on my part but so worth it, results are there to prove it.

Also, when I can I wear headphones and listen to a podcast. I find it distracts me from what is going on around me and makes me concentrate on the task in hand. I can't always as I often have the dog outside with me so need to keep an eye and ear on him.
This has been very true for me too. The headphones aiding concentration this is also very relevant to me - I have found that it is due to me having ADHD.

Based on this, a very important tip is if you have the choice of cleaning your car and rushing it or not cleaning your car, you're better off not cleaning your car as you're likely to inflict more damage/swirls rushing a job, than if you were to just leave it and do it when you can spend the right amount of time.
 

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Great topic, but off the top of my head, let me think...

  • Never use dry towels/cloths. Always add your product to them or use them slightly damp. Much less chance of marring.
  • A bit obscure, but if you are using a product that solidifies and makes the sprayer clog up, ruining it, after you have used it, use that sprayer to spray through some panel wipe or glass cleaner to keep the sprayer running freely.
  • Always have a rinseless wash in the arsenal. Doesn't have to be ONR. Very cheap and effective for so many things, it makes many questions asked on here redundant. QD, clay lube, drying aid, water softener, bird bomb diffuser, glass cleaner, great interior hard surface cleaner, panel wipe (depending on brand), uh- rinseless wash!
  • When polishing bonnets and boots, open them so you can get the edges better.
  • Practice polishing, even if it's by hand. That is where the looks come from, truly.
  • Don't be a brand snob or even a subject snob - if a product or idea is from a cheap company/different field but works, it works!
 

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Based on this, a very important tip is if you have the choice of cleaning your car and rushing it or not cleaning your car, you're better off not cleaning your car as you're likely to inflict more damage/swirls rushing a job, than if you were to just leave it and do it when you can spend the right amount of time.
Agree with this. (y)

If it feels like a chore to clean your car then don’t do it. Wait until you actually want to do it and ………… enjoy it! :D

Detailing is a hobby and should be fun, not a chore. ;)


Alan W
 
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