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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I may have had my first go with a rotary on my car an I maybe have burnt the paint in a slight area bout the size of a 1p coin but il only make that mistake once so I tried the bonnet an drivers door and had better outcome so ima. Bit pissed but happy at the same time lol

Just thought I tell ya lol
 

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Rule of thumb lol sorry to hear that also.......:wall:
trip 2 scrappy / old bonnet, prep it and practice / practice / practice
That's what i intend doing, as using a DA seems to take ages, but safer !
E
 

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Machine polishing is one of those arts filled with countless "things you only do once" :D

The scrap bonnet or panel idea is a must! Most scrappies will sell one dirt cheap (although our local scrappy will just tell you to pry it from his cold, dead hands, lol).

Just remember with a rotary to keep it moving at all times, work your way up the cut from light to strong, and in most cases don't pressure the machine - let it tell you where it wants to go, not the other way around. It will always win.

Feel free to hit me up if you would be interested in one of our machine polishing training courses :)
 

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I don't care what anyone says, strike through is a downside to our job and will happen at some point, I have gone through on a finishing pad, but then again, the body shop decided to remove most of the paint. Speak to the guy on the Aston Paint line for example, say strike through, he will reply, daily..

If carrying out heavy corrections or wet flatting, you are at more risk. The very first time I ever used a rotary, bang, straight through the paint, but back then we had 2 speed machines with a dustbin lid sized pad :)..

It is a real pain when you do burn through, don't be to disheartened, it can be fixed :)..
 

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I don't care what anyone says, strike through is a downside to our job and will happen at some point
It's a bit of an upside for my job :D

Seriously though, we send a lot of cars to our smart / correction guys and many of them have defects which we know have only a marginal chance of being successfully removed. If they burn through, then C'est la vie, it'll come back to us, but even if they manage to correct half of them that's dozens of cars a week that we save money on by not painting.

We lovingly call these cars 3B's - Buff, Burn, Bodyshop :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Really appreciate the reply guys ! Foxx I might end up coming to have a go at that course at the start of the new year il let you know :)

I will inform you great people that I did take a plunge yesterday and decided to do my project car all over and I was thoroughly impressed at the end and the best bit I had no strike throughs so I was a lot happier

Cheers for your replies !
 

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I am new to the machine polishing, and have recently bought a DA. Is there better results from the Rotary? how much would you expect to pay for a practice panel from the scrappy?
No difference in results, you will hear some say that the rotary is better but more say that the DA finishes better.. Either way the difference is ridiculously small

The difference between then machines is a rotary gets the job done A LOT faster, where as a DA takes around 4x as long.. If you are only doing it as a hobby then I would recommend a DA as it's infinitely easier to finish well and MUCH less risky
 

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Machine polishing is one of those arts filled with countless "things you only do once" :D

The scrap bonnet or panel idea is a must! Most scrappies will sell one dirt cheap (although our local scrappy will just tell you to pry it from his cold, dead hands, lol).

Just remember with a rotary to keep it moving at all times, work your way up the cut from light to strong, and in most cases don't pressure the machine - let it tell you where it wants to go, not the other way around. It will always win.

Feel free to hit me up if you would be interested in one of our machine polishing training courses :)
Could you message me with prices of these courses please, IV only just signed up so can't pm you
 
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