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incoorect, the fans on dynos do not provide the same airflow as out on the open roads!

Heat soak is only a matter for n/a engines which in this case it is.

If you have an induction kit fitted leave your air feed in and blow cool air into the filter!

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Heat is only a matter for N/A engines?

Unless I've read how you've written that, it's complete rubbish! Turbos produce ridiculous amounts of heat!

I couldn't comment on supercharges as I truthfully don't know. But being belt driven forced induction not being reliant on exhaust gases I wouldn't have thought they were to bad :dunno:
 
Adding air filters exhausts etc etc may get the odd few horses freed up but it's making more difference to the feel rather than actual power,

Out of interest what extra power did it add?

I'm torn with the dyno temps. As once the cars warned up and say the first run I'd imagine the temps are good, but any after that the rolling roads are normally Warner than outside driving conditions. People forget Dynos are far from real life performance! Close but having your car live mapped would be better!!

Proof of this would be my first scooby, on rollers produced 261bhp and about 320ft/lb torque at 1.5 bar on the rollers,
Started driving home and saw 1.6 bar and could hear the turbo over boosting!
Colder denser air on the road, actual load on the car etc,
 
Hoikey.

Your best bet would be fit all the bits you want, exhaust air filter etc,

Air filter wise fit either panel or cone, just keep as much heat as possible away from it and allow it access to cold air it'll be fine!

But once it's all fitted have the car mapped. As changing air filters etc on newer cars with intelligent(although annoying) ecu's are very good at stopping the car from releasing full potential as they are designed to run within strict parameters.


That's just my thoughts. Although I could be wrong :(
 
Lets be honest no one fits an induction kit to an NA and expects a noticable increase, fit, run some cold feeds and enjoy the noise.

I had an K&N filter and hard pipe intake ont he Supra, have now swapped to the OEM airboxes and its far better to drive. Low down torque has improved as well.

Great for noise, but no noticable gains, despite what the makes tell you.
 
It's not complete rubbish at all. The intercooler makes intake temperatures at the filter largely irrelevant.
If your serious about performance, why make the intercooler work harder?
Colder temps at the air filter less work for the intercooler to reduce temps down or reduce temps even further, surely you want the temps hitting the combustion chamber to be as cold as physically possible?
 
Lets be honest no one fits an induction kit to an NA and expects a noticable increase, fit, run some cold feeds and enjoy the noise.

I had an K&N filter and hard pipe intake ont he Supra, have now swapped to the OEM airboxes and its far better to drive. Low down torque has improved as well.

Great for noise, but no noticable gains, despite what the makes tell you.
Couldn't agree more
 
If your serious about performance, why make the intercooler work harder?
Colder temps at the air filter less work for the intercooler to reduce temps down or reduce temps even further, surely you want the temps hitting the combustion chamber to be as cold as physically possible?
You think 10 degrees at the filter will matter once its been through a turbo at 900+ degrees?

Quantity of air is far more important than temperature on a turbo car, unless your working in F1 where every single .1 of an HP matters.
 
No I'm just saying for something as simple as "trying" where you can to keep temperatures as low as possible will help?! Every little bit helps surely? Why the hell would you try to do everything you can to make it perform its best, if your going to do a job might aswell do it right!

Anyway my original comment was temperatures aren't only an issue on N/A cars?!
 
I've had plenty of cars with induction kits and all made above manufacters figures when dynoed and were noticeably quicker on the road, biggest problem with induction kits usually is the person who's fitted them, poorly fitted ones with crap or no cold air feeds will obviously lose power!
 
same here, and all moved the torque higher up the rev range. different story on a forced induction car, but on a little 1.5 for the sake of ÂŁ70 and 5bhp i wouldnt bother.

Bearing in mind that an NA engine will only suck in as much air as it needs at any given RPM, no amount of ducting, cold air feeds or air rams are going to make much of a difference.

Has anyone actually measured the increase in WHEEL bhp before and after fitting an induction kit? Thats where it counts, flywheel bhp figure isnt an exact number (but it sounds great in the pub).

My MR2 turbo with ducting, and filter positioned right over the rear air intake for the engine bay made a whole 6hp gain over the stock boxes and lost some low down torque from removeing the stock system (with various air tanks). For over ÂŁ100 is it really worth it? sure it sounded great, but real world in my experience hasn't made any difference.

panel filter in the stock box and leave it be.
 
Heat is only a matter for N/A engines?

Unless I've read how you've written that, it's complete rubbish! Turbos produce ridiculous amounts of heat!

I couldn't comment on supercharges as I truthfully don't know. But being belt driven forced induction not being reliant on exhaust gases I wouldn't have thought they were to bad :dunno:
Right, it's pretty simple in fairness. Engine temps are no way near as hot as a spinning turbo.

So you could have the coldest air feed on a turbo car but it still travels through a red hot turbo. After its through the turbo its down to the intercooler to cool the air and how effective that is.

Hence my comment N/A engines only suffer from heat soak.

Inlets temps on my cone filter are identical to with a airbox due the intercooler i have ;)

Hope this makes sense now
 
Yes/no. You're effectively creating a plenum (iirc), it will help absorb the instantaneous air requirements of each cylinder as it's intake valve opens. This will have a limit of effectiveness tho and if your air sensor is upstream of your 'large volume tank' your A/F ratio if do funny things on throttle application/lift off (i think)
 
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