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Water Filter: RaceGlaze or Pure Final Rinse???

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17K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  LorenzoT  
#1 ·
I had an Aqua Gleam years ago but it didn't last very long.
I'm now in the market for decent system but as always value for money and cost is paramount.
I've looked at Raceglaze for years and they appear to have good feedback etc etc.
A little bit of research and The Pure Final Rinse came up but the price was over double of a Raceglaze variant. I appreciate it has a built in TDS meter but I can just use my handheld for that!
Thoughts appreciated :thumb:
 
#2 ·
That's the first I've seen of the pure final rinse offering and it does look quite smart. It's a neater offering and the bag change is clearly faster, but it's like anything, how much money do you want to throw at something? It'll be using the same sort of resin as the standard versions available from RG and others so what you are paying for is the neater looks and faster resin change only. The small one is a 6 litre and refill bags are £36 each. That's pretty expensive compared to a 25 litre bag of resin which will cost you about £85.
I picked up the vyair 0618 (filled) delivered for about £80 (inc 10% discount) and it works great. That's the same size as the RG one.
 
#3 ·
The Pure final rinse looks a good systems but it appears to be a rebranded Unger system
https://www.ungerglobal.com/uk/products/hydropower-ultra-filter-s
When I was researching I looked at both the Unger was cheaper. You do have the convenience of resin in a bag and a TDS meter.

I've had a race glaze for a few years now and it certainly makes a big difference. Race glaze will say that the shape of the vessel makes a big difference. Based on this Pure final rinse is the wrong shape. Changing resin on the Race glaze is not that difficult especially having seen the hack of using a pair of old tights pulled over the vessel and the resin empty's into it.
I have added a photo of my set with up a dedicated coiled hose which retracts into the duct attached to the vessel. I also use a flow meter which allows me to see how much I use on each rinse and the total used. I know roughly how much I get out of a fill and only need to check the TDS as it get close.
There are other sellers on vessels and resin so you pay your money and take your choice. I'm more than happy with the Raceglaze which performs really well.
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#6 ·
I'd be interesting to know how many litres your unit does before it needs changing Radish. Also the TDS of your tap water before filtering.
Out of interest, how often are you using it? I would generally use mine on mine and the wife's cars on a weekly basis give or take.
I think I'll pick up a flow meter like this for when I next change the resin. :thumb:
 
#9 ·
I checked my cctv footage, and it takes me exactly 7 minutes to rinse 2 cars, so 3½ mins per car (hatchbacks). I get 6.3 litres per minute out of the end of my DI rinse hose (thin bore hose so low flow), so 3.5 x 6.3 = 22.05, so 22 litres of DI water per car. RG website reckons you can rinse a car only 5-7 litres. Radish, how many litres are you using per car rinsed?
 
#17 ·
As we clearly have a competitor who seems, on paper, to offer a cheaper deal, I'd like to share this research with you, performed by a water industry consultant, using Hertfordshire water.

We have carefully selected these taller vessels, in consultation with a water treatment industry veteran, as wider, dumpier (window cleaners) vessels have a lower efficiency and can´t extract the maximum capacity from the resin. This ends up costing you more money. In our tests, our 7L filter produced 59 litres water per litre of resin, over 20% more efficient than the window cleaner 10L unit which produced 48L per litre of resin.

So if you're comparing units, add 20% to the price of the dumpy units.
 
K
#18 ·
RaceGlazer said:
As we clearly have a competitor who seems, on paper, to offer a cheaper deal, I'd like to share this research with you, performed by a water industry consultant, using Hertfordshire water.

We have carefully selected these taller vessels, in consultation with a water treatment industry veteran, as wider, dumpier (window cleaners) vessels have a lower efficiency and can´t extract the maximum capacity from the resin. This ends up costing you more money. In our tests, our 7L filter produced 59 litres water per litre of resin, over 20% more efficient than the window cleaner 10L unit which produced 48L per litre of resin.

So if you're comparing units, add 20% to the price of the dumpy units.
Click to expand...
So over time you would save money on the resin replacements as you would get similar water output with less resin?
 
#20 ·
The Vyair 0618 is the same dimensions as the RG 7L model I think (although out of stock). I’m assuming the model code relates to the dimensions I.e. 6” x 18”. That’s what mine measures.
Your point on the dumpy units makes perfect sense that the resin isn’t in contact with the water as long as the tall units. :thumb:
 
#26 ·
We have a calculator which only I can now access (its on our old website which we kept live for this purpose but people kept trying to buy obsolete items).

Note its for our 7 and 14L high aspect ration units - it wont work for the Vyair dumpy units which need a different calculation, and which are less efficient than ours. They may seem cheaper to buy but cost you more over the long run. Also check how much resin other suppliers put in, ours are brim full.
 
#27 ·
Hi all,

I can’t find the answer to my question on the forum search, but this thread is very close!

I’ve made what I can only assume is a schoolboy error of hooking up my DI vessel at the outside tap, the DI vessel outputs to my hose and that feeds into my pressure washer. I seem to have rocketed through my resin in an 11L tank after just two washes. I used it a lot during the wash and rinse, so I’m not surprised now I think about it (too late).

Anyway, my TDS meter is reading 30ppm. When do you change your resin? Should I let it get to 60ppm?

Thanks.
 
#28 ·
Unlikely to be spent in 2 washes. More likely is that the water is passing too fast through the vessel and not allowing the resin to act on the water. I would firstly disconnect from your pressure washer (brass internals don't like DI water, so flush tap water through the washer), give the vessel a good shake/turn and run water though it at say 6 litres per minute. Then recheck the TDS reading. I would replace at about 10 on the TDS meter.
 
#29 ·
Thanks for the advice. I’ll check it after a good shake on my next use, but with a different setup.

I bought a small hose and trigger gun to connect to the output of the Di vessel instead of using the pressure washer setup. That should be a more gentle flow setup for rinsing. I’ll just wash using the pressure washer and tap water followed by a gentle hose rinse with the DI vessel afterwards.
 
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